Historical Document · 1822
The Private Brewers Guide to the Art of Brewing Ale and Porter
- brewing
Historical Document · 1822
THE PRIVATE BREWER'S’ GUYD# TO THE ART OF . BREWING ALE AND PORTER, PARTICULARLY ADAPTED TO THE USE OF THE . FAMILIES OF THE NOBILITY, GENTRY, FARMERS, AND PRIVATE BREWERS, WITH Complete PFustructions FOR COUNTRY VICTUALLERS WHO BREW AT HOME. Auso, AN ACCOUNT OF DRUGS, TABLES OF DUTIES, LAWS OF EXCISE, THE ART OF SWEETENING CASKS, INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING UP SPIRITS, PURCHASING WINES, &c. —__— ON A PLAIN AND ENTIRE NEW PLAN. ag - By JOHN TUCK, Late of Croydon, Brewer. ~ LONDON: “ PRINTED FOR W. SIMPKIN AND R. MARSHALL, STATIONERS’ HALL COURT, LUDGATE SIPERT., 7) :%e 1822, THE NEW yo PUBLIC C LIBRAX ; te a rw i ASTOR, LENOY AND aa TILDEN FOUNDATION 1918 L ’ 2 ae vee 1 ~ oe Fe eta . ” . . soe . sy . . . . ? . To JOHN ELLIOT, ‘Esq. Colonel of the Westminster Light Horse Volunteers. SiR, In dedicating this little work to you, however deficient in merit, it affords me a public opportunity of grate- fully acknowledging many favours received from you. I remain, Sir, Your most obedient servant, JOHN TUCK. London, Aug. 1822. — Country Brewers, and Gentlemen desi- rous of practical instructions, or of having a Plant or complete apparatus fitted up, altered, or any advice relating thereto, may be attended by the Author in any part of the kingdom, on moderate terms, by addressing him at the | New Inn, Old Bailey, London. N.B. Breweries or Stocks valued, and any Agency relating to the Brewhouse punctnally performed. PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. . Ir should be perfectly understood, that the Author of this Treatise on Practical Brewing, offers no more than plain and -useful instruction to those who are not too wise to be instructed —to teach a plain and certain way of producing a sound and wholesome beverage without waste. He presumes not to teach the learned, nor to introduce any thing that is not easy to be comprehended by the plainest under- standing. He enters little into improve- ments 'in machinery—the instructions he has given, are, for what he calls, hand- work, which may be followed from a two, four, or ten quarter mash tun toa larger one. He assures his readers that no nos- A 3 Vi. PREFACE. trums, or pretended secrets, will be found in this work; and at the same time, honestly and plainly tells them, that there. is no secret in the art of Brewing, but to know how—and that knowledge is only to be obtained by attention and practice. The Author further asks permission to state, that he is a Brewer, and not a Gram- merian—of course, he implores mercy for the literary errors he may have com- mitted. He has divided the process into distinet parts or chapters, by which the learner, he presumes, will be better able to com- prehend. OO It is further necessary to obserye, that the idea of this publication arose from ‘attending a brewhouse to give instruc- tions to the proprietor, reducing them to writing in the form now given—-when it PREFACE. vii. occurred that they would be instructive to young brewers—the original has been enlarged upon, and written at various times, in the years 1818, 1819, and 1820, which will account for the difference of prices in malt and hops, and other mate- rials, which have greatly varied. TO THE SECOND EDITION. — =S=—=— Tue First Edition of this Work having been most favourably received, as is clear- ly evinced by the number of respectable names of Gentlemen in the profession be- - coming purchasers ; also by the public in general; which is the more flattering, as the work has never been advertised. In con- sequence of many kind intimations, the Author has enlarged in explanation seve- ral parts of the process, and made addi- tions, which he trusts will prove instruc- tive, as well as useful to the student. The late publication of Mr. Accum’s, is a con- vincing proof how readily persons may be led astray by a reliance on science instead of practical acquirement. In the observa- tions I shall have occasion to make on that . PREFACE. ix. Geutleman’s work, I desire to be perfectly understood, they apply to. the work itself, - and nothing further. I must be permitted to regret, that Mr. A. has been induced to bring forward such violent accusations against the Brewery, in his publications, raising an alarm that has awakened the terrors, and excited the indignation of the multitude against that profession, and af- terwards publish a work ona science, of which he appears to have but little mark- ed; at least I shall endeavour to point out his want of that knowledge he pre- sumes to display. ~ [have no observations to make on this Gentleman’s remarks on other trades. If, indeed, his observations on Brewing are true, I must express my astonishment at finding myself, at the age of Sixty, in ex- cellent. health, and enjoying. as much strength and vigour as most men.of.my - x. PREFACE. age; and wonderful to relate, consider London Bread and London Beer the best that is produced, and prefer them for food beyond any other viands, and have done so all my life. The Edinburgh review has made this observation, which Mr. A. has given in his advertisements. ‘It is chiefly for the purpose of laying open the disho- nest artifices of this class of dealers, that Mr. A. has published the present very interesting and popular work; and che gives a most fearful view of the vari- ous and extensive frauds which are daily practised on the unsuspecting public.” Certainly, to expose dishonest practices, is truly praise-worthy ; but to throw such violent censures on all around, he must expect:some will recoil. We have an _ account of a million and a half of barrels. of beer and ale brewed in the year 1819 PREFACE. Xi. only; and_ the seizures made in public breweries, amount in siz years to thirty- four, This is too much, to be told we are thus swallowing poison daily, and the dis- covery so lately made. Mr. A: says, ‘* the intoxicating qualities of some Porter arises from stupifying ingredients used in it.” Will any one believe, when the pe- nalty of the loss of the eopper and uten- sils, perhaps worth ten thousand pounds, ‘would be ventured to use drugs; and among all the convictions that has been ‘made, has one Porter House been called in question, save that of Reids and Cu. which is explained in the body of this work. . I would ask, who learned Brewers the use of Drugs? the answer must be, Che- mists; Brewers were tempted, and have " since completely discovered the fallacy of the experiment ; and now the game is up, one of their own body comes forward to xii, - PREFACE. - expose the evils they have brought on the _ Brewery. I have given an account of Drugs, and some, notwithstanding Mr. A’s advice, I .most strenuously recommend to private . Brewers. I must observe the complete alteration in the price of every article used in the Brewhouse ;‘ and in hoping for its conti- nuance, I congratulate the public on the prospect of cheap and stronger beer which has taken place.since the first publication of this work. | NAMES or GENTLEMEN BREW- ERS who have become Purchasers of this Work, and with whose Approba- tion the Author is honoured. Mr. Acton, --+cereeees, «« dpswich Messrs. Beer and Co. .. -- -- -- Margate Mr. Best, -«+:.....+0-++++++ Chatham Messrs. Breed and Co. ------ Hastings Mr. Barnes, ........°++->: . «Winchester Messrs. Cobb and €o......... Margate Mr. Cobbold,........e.ee08. Colchester Mr. Crump, ....--+-.... 1 Witham Mr. Chapman, ---------- .... Brighton Messrs. Chitty and Co........Lewis Mr. Dobel eeorceceesee *® Feee . Cranbrook Messrs. Elliott and Co. . oo Pimlico . Mr. Dickenson. ..<.......+++. Town Malling’ Mr. Dyson, ...-...6-0%% + - Ipswich Mr. Garrad --.--- tveesceseves Portemouth Mr. Goodwin, we cer co escecs , Billericay Mr. Harman, ---- teens Croydon Messrs. Humphreys and Co. . . . Chichester Mr. Hewlett, ---.--.«..-+.+. Fareham Mr. Hunt,.........00+00+-+ + Abresford Messrs. Heath,-.-.--. - «:+Andover Messrs, Hurst, ..-+++eeeeeeee East Bourn ~ Xiv. Mr. Hunter,.------ wees »+++Margate Messrs. Hopkine and Co. ..... Cambridge Messrs. Langton,-------++--- Lewis Mr. Moody, .....seseeceeees Winchester Mr. Millar, -----: -+-- . «+++ Poole Messrs, Morrisson and Son, ..Rye Mr. Wigyell, --++e+++++ +++ Seven Oaks Mr. Mackenson, .----+-+++-- Hythe Mr, Patrick, .« +--+ + -+--eeee: Worthing Messrs. Plane and Co. ...... .Maidstor.e Mr. Plowman, ------- tees Rumsey Messrs. Robinson and Co. ...... Canterbury Mr. Robinson, «1... 02.06: .. +» Ditto’ Mr. Smith, wcsccceccceesens Alton Mr, Stewart,..ec+eeseee0..+-dpswich Mr. Sheriff --.«-- sseccvevee Ditto. — ; Sir Samuel Spicer, .......06. Portsmouth Mr. Thomson, .0....0eeeeeee Rochester Mr, Wailt,....saeeaee se ceeee Winchester Mr. Wadham, ....... cece eee Poole . Messrs, Wood and Co. ...... Lewes Mr. Woodroofe,........+0+°* Hastings Messrs. Wardell-and. Dodd... . Tunbridge Wells. Mr, Walker,..ve....0s te seee «Dover CONTENTS. —sejeo— Short View of the Brewery . . . Hardships of Licensed Victuallers . . Technical Terms used in Breweries. . Utensils requisite for a Brewhouse . . Erecting a Brewhouse. . . . . On Malt... . On Hops . se ee ee Dips “ 6 © @ © © © «© «© © Thermometer. . .... . Saccharometer Grinding and crushing Malt . ' Heats. . : Lengths and waste of Liquor Setting Tap... ...... Bolling . .. ... 2... Cleansing ee oe ew Breaking in Stale Beer . Cappngon . . ......, Raw Worts . . 2... - 1. wwe Finings and Headings . ...... On Cleanliness . . . . . . Art of Sweetening Casks. . . Brewing Porter, &.&. . . « Expences attending Brewers. . . . Excise Laws, relative to Brewers On Drugs. . . Excise Duties .°. . . Directions for purchasing Wines, Ke. for making up Gin, &c.. Paces. 15 34 42 50 56 61 64 73 76 82 93. . 101 -1ll - 112 - Lis - 124 - 186 - 194 . 234 — » 245 247 THE ART OF BREWING. INTRODUCTION. IT has been long said, that ‘“ Every old woman knows how to brew,” whilst the Breweries have been held almost in abhorrence, and even charged with dispen- sing poison to the public. The know- ledge of the first position is easily appre-. ciated, for, good or bad, foxed or sweet,’ thick or fine, still it is home-brewed beer, and it must be wholesome ; for the truth of the other, I can only appeal to the smooth-cheeked, full-bellyed parties who smoke round an alehouge table, and to the ‘appearance of those poor emaciated crea- tures, called brewer’s servants, who do , , B 2 THE ART OF BREWING. some trifling labour, such as laying down butts of porter, for sixteen and eighteen hours out of the twenty-four, which labour they bear, at least, without sinking under it. In order to explain this matter in the best light, and take a fair view of the sub- ject, it will be well to examine into the history of the Brewery for some time back. . It is nearly a century since brown beer, afterwards called porter, was first intro- duced: At that time public Brewhouses made no approach to the magnitude they now possess ; indeed, I have a publication on brewing by me, printed in 1740, which ~ speaks of the great copper, holding thirty barrels.—It is easy to conceive the extent of the concern. . . Brown beer, or Porter, was introduced - about the year 1720, chiefly on account of the aptitude of pale beer becoming stale. Brown ‘beer was generally used among the THE ART OF BREWING. $ labouring class of men, and indeed, from the strength it was brewed, and the age it was kept, it was almost impossible for any but active .and laborious people to. drink and digest it.. . I trust I shall be able to. shew. that the cause of so great a falling off in the quality — of beer at the present day, does not rest with the brewery, but in the alteration of the times ; and that there really. requires more art and science to extract all the es- sential properties from the © grain. And notwithstanding that alteration, I _assert, and will maintain, that.in no part of the kingdom can you have a pleasanter, or more wholesome draught of beer, than in London, The brewery being so heavily taxed with burdens and duties, the wonder will only remain, how the public have been served with so good a beverage; so well and so cheap, considering the burdens it. has borne. B2 A THE ART OF BREWING. Let us then take a cursory view of the | brewery for the last hundred and twenty years, about which time ale and beer were sold for two-pence a quart, the duty being then fifteen pence per barrel. In the year 1692, the duty on strong beer advanced to three shillings per barrel, with an impost of nine-pence per barrel on small beer. Beer then rose to two-pence halfpenny per quart. In Queen Ann’s reign, duties on coals and hops were imposed, which caused a new rise on beer. About this time much competition among the brewers appears to have taken - place, and the introduction of brown beer became almost general. I must here ob- serve, that in those days seldom more than a hogshead, or at most two barrels, were drawn from a quarter of malt. But many persons were so attached to the pale beer, particularly in the country, that the con- - sumption of brown beer became confined to London ; however, even then pale beer was drank, as the brown was considered heavy and glutinous; a mixture of stale, - THE ART OF BREWING. 5 mild, and ‘pale, which was called three- threads, was sold at four pence per quart as far back as 1720. The Breweries now began to improve ; the brown beer was started, well hopped, into butts, and was kept a considerable time to grow mellow. Being the beverage of labouring men, it obtained the name of Porter, and was called IntirE Burt BEER, which was sold for three-pence per quart until about 1760, when it rose to three-pence halfpenny, and so continued until. about 1800, when, in consequence of the great rise in malt and hops, it advanced to four-pence. In 1802, after one year’s peace, war again breaking out, Mr. Ad- dington laid on a war duty of two shillings per bushel on malt; the excise duty rose to ten shillings-per barrel, on strong, and two shillings on table beer—porter became four-pence halfpenny, and afterwards five- pence per quart. Let us now look back to former days, - and compare them with the present. I do B 3 7 6 THE ART OF BREWING. not undertake to be the panegyrist of the brewers, yet.as an old brewer, I cannot help feeling indignant at the obloquy thrown upon Public Breweries, to the pro- prietors of which the public stand greatly indebted; for whilst they were paying one shilling and ten-pence halfpenny for their quartern loaf, they obtained their porter ‘at four-pence halfpenny per pot.; and the gratitude expressed on, this occasion was ‘displayed- by charging the. brewer with Poisoning them. >. mo To return , from ‘this. digression : the ‘intire butt beer was brewed in good season, and the magnitude of brewhouses began to increas¢ ;. not only -did the respectable publican have. his own cellar well filled, ‘but every vault and cellar that could be appropriated, was hired for the purpose, far. which was. paid'o one shilling per butt per annum. , Do, The mode adopted was to have the butts carefully. coopered and made sweet, and properly arranged in the vault; the THE ART OF BREWING. vA beer, young from the stillon, was conyey- ed. in barrels, started in the jigger-tub, then pumped through the hose, and each butt filled. The filling up and attendance were left to the broad-cooper, whose duty it was to attend each.cellar, to: ascertain that: all was right. ‘Thus: was beer ap-+ portioned to each publican, and it was seldom moved for twelve months. In the present day the system is entirely altered. To say the truth, there-is little of porter Jeft but the name; and indeed the taste of the public is so changed, that very few would be found to fancy its original fla- your. | a ___ The price of casks, horses, labour, corn, taxes, and every necessary appurtenance to a brewery, having of late years so much increased, there is no longer a chance of ‘success to the laborious and industrious little brewer. All is swallowed up in capi- tal. There are Brewers who never see‘the . brewhouse, contenting- themselves. with receiving ten per cent. upon their capital. s | 8 THE ART OF BREWING. A beer called amber, or two-penny, was ‘ much in vogue some years since. Of this great quantities were consumed early in the morning, warmed, under the name of purl; and though this liquor is at present . sold in some houses, a very different beer is sent to the publican. I have known it cleansed in one day, and delivered out and drank. perhaps in two. The table beer, in the remembrance of the author, was most excellent. Fifty years since table beer was brewed, at the rate of four barrels from a quarter of malt, and was sold for twelve shillings per bar- rel. At that day it was the practice for persons to fetch the small beer from the - brewhouse in pails, quite hot, and work it in their own cask athome. The barrel sent out by the brewer was stopped with clay in a conical form. So Shakespeare makes Hamlet say, ‘‘ The body of Alex- ander being turned to clay, may be stop- ping a beer-barrel.” We have now to look at the amazing difference in the price of every utensil irs GLACK LIBRARY. THE ART OF BREWANGs...00000 9 used in the breweries, until within the last three years—in that of labour—rent and taxes—iron-work—horsés—hay and corn -—in short, every thing connected with them. I know of no better way to eluci- date this subject than by giving Mr. Cal- vert’s statement to the Police Committee _ of the House of Commons, in the year (1817. oy Mr. Calvert, being asked .his opinion why beer is not so good as formerly ? an- swers, that it is owing to the price of beer not having kept pace with ‘the raw mate- rial, and the-articles of wear and tear. In the last twenty years porter had advanced sixty-four per cent. of which government teceived sixteen, the victualler about eleven, and the brewer thirty-seven; while the raw material, and the articles of wear and tear, have advanced in the following proportion: | - to THE ART. OF BREWING. a re Per cent. Maltand hops - -.- - = £200 Labour - ee 60 ; Millwright’s work - - - 100 Horses. - - - - - 133 Harness -. - - - +, = 140 Horse. Corn -- = =- + 100 Hay - 85 Coals - = = = = $8 Lighterage- - - - =. - 100 Leather pipe - -: -. =. 85 Poors’ rate - - - ~ : 900 Bricks - - -=- + ‘= 4% Timber - a 375 ve i] | . ¥ Assessed and other taxes, most ‘consider. able. 4 : - Mr. Calvert also observes, that the'ad- vance of thirty-seven per cent. will ‘not meet the above charges, and considering porter to bea necessary of life among the working class of people, and taking the pressure of the times into consideration, THE ART OF BREWING: 11 the brewers have. been induced to lower the strength instead of raising the price, which must. have been seven-pence, or seven-pence. halfpenny per pot. -In addition to the above, we-subjoin the statement of Mr. Barclay, giving an ac- count of the average price of malt, hops, and duty, for the last forty-eight years. From 1769 to .1779, malt 31s. 6d. per qr. 1779 to 1789,.:.- 338.9d. 1789 to ) FFN9, | Als. 8d. £8. d. From 1769 to 1779, hops 49 8 per cwt. 1779 to 1789, 443 1789 to 1799, 542 During this period, the duty was five shil- lings and seven-pence halfpenny per bar- rel, and .the price of porter three-pence palfpenny, Per pot. 12 THE ART OF BREWING. From 1799 to 1809, malt 69s. 3d. per qr. 1809 to 1817, 81s. Id. 1817, 86s. 1818, 80s. £. s. d. From 1799 to 1809, hops 6 16 7 per cwt. 1809 to 1817, 617 1817, 15 00. 1818, 30 00 During this period, namely, in 1802, the duty rose to ten shillings per barrel. Beer has risen during the latter period, to four-pence halfpenny—five-pence—five pence halfpenny—and, on account of the failure of two seasons of hops, porter rose to six—pence per pot; Hops having risen to thirty pounds per cwt. A most wonderful change has taken place in the price of Malt and Hops; in -’ the year 1820, Hops being down to Four Guineas per Cwt. and Malt reduced to Fifty Eight Shillings per Quarter. The price of Porter is reduced to five pence THE ART OF BREWING. 13 per quart. The brewery has certainly a great turn in its favour, which it well de- serves. At this time Malt has greatly de- clined in price ; and as one shilling per bushel is to be taken from the duty on Malt, beer must be lower. Having made these statements, -I leave it to the public: to judge, whether they have been overborne by the brewer ; how- ever, if there is any one incredulous enough not {p afford belief, he may have the felicity of making a trial, as one half of the pale breweries in London at this moment (July 1818) are to let, or sold up ; and notwith- standing the present turn, it will be seen that many cannot overcome the former difficulties, as the Gazette plainly evinces. _ There are persons hardy or witty enough to say, that the price of malt and hops is of little moment to the brewer, as substitutes are generally used. From many years ex- perience, I have not yet had the good for- tune. to discover the practice. If there is 14 =—s THE ART OF BREWINO. one, it nearly equals, in value, the Philo- sopher's stone. ; In writing this's short v view of the brew: ery, it would: be uncandid ‘to deny that such attempts have been made; and as I shall give a list of the principal drugs used, dr recommended to be used, it would be'a contradiction to my own statement ; but that any thing can supply the’ place of malt and hops, in effect, I most solemn- ly deny. . a Apout twenty years since, when barley, as well as. evagy other grain, rose to an immoderate ‘height, and a real scarcity was felt-by the country, the brewer, in- stead of ‘faising beer. in proportion with bread, was weak enough to listen to the futile ‘persuasions of certain druggists, in recommending their drugs, “They certain- ly imposed on the most ignorant, :and I fear, many who ought to: have. known more of the efficacy of their nostrums; but as I shall-give a description of their use THE ART .OF BREWING. a Fe) and application, I defer catering into any detail at ‘present. =: raw As this book is intended for the use. of the. Licenséd Victualler, as well as the pri- vate brewer, more especially the one who brews his own beer, it will not, perhaps, be too intrusive .to mention a few of ‘the hardships and. impositions that the. publi- can labours under. 7 - Whoever will look back for some time past, must acknowledge the increased re- ‘spectability of the licensed victualler; and _ although it must be confesagd, and; indeed” proved in the Police Committee ‘of the House ‘of Commons, that there are many bad characters, yet the principal houses in town.are now occupied ‘by highly, res- pectable characters; this is accounted for by: the alteration in the times, as many "persons have,‘ through misfortune, been driven from their original callings into the public trade.. “Now, when it is considered ‘that the victualler is, in point of fact, the collector of an immense portion of. the 16 THE ART OF BREWING. revenue ; that he bears more than his pro- portion of the public burdens; that in lieu of the income tax his licences were doubled ; it is curious that the Police Committee should observe, that these were the means of rendering him respect- able. That was: the first time I ever heard, that increasing a man’s expences, and making him poorer, has a tendency to increase his respectability. How is it then, that the publican, being thus estab- lished in his right of respectability, should be exposed to the mercy of the report of every parish beadle, or vagabond consta- ble or patrole, or spiteful vindictive neigh- bour, who has only to write a letter, per- haps anonymously, to the licensing magis- trate ; when the publican, however large his property, or high his character, is at the mercy of an individual? Does he not thus lose the privileges of an Englishman ? He is neither tried nor heard by his peers, nor ever faced to his accuser; but such is his wretched and pecular situation, that he may lose his whole property, and his fa- -mily be reduced to beggary, at the nod of 4 THE ART OF BREWING. 17 an individual. Any other person. for five shillings, may dispute, and even carry his cause before the king (as supposed) sitting on his: bench; but a victualler may be despoiled and ruined—his family turned into the street, at the infamous and un- inquired report of a scoundrel. Who are these reporters ? The first, and most oftici- ous on the list, is the parish beadle. One observation on this description of gentry is sufficient. Shew me a beadle, and I will shew you a drunken fellow. The se- cond is the patrole; of him I need only observe, refuse him drink, and then you get reported. To complete the climax of misery of a licensed victualler, that. should his land- lord, or any other person, make him a _ present of a hare, or any description of game, he is liable to a penalty of ten pounds, for having such forbidden luxuries in his house. To enumerate the different cases of vic- tuallers being ruined, is not my present c 18 THE ART OF BREWING. purpose, but it is high time that they should: unite together in every district throughout the kingdom, and petition parliament to be. restored to the natural rights of Englishmen, which I recommend to be done humbly and respectfully. It is impossible sufficiently to thank the Hon. Mr. Grey Bennet, for his noble and generous endeavours in behalf of the pub- lic trade. I must confess :I greatly disapproved of the former petition to’ the House of Com- ‘mons. Great men do not like to. be told unpleasant truths, and it should have been . remembered, that every gentleman of that honourable house is a magistrate. Let ano- ther petition be drawn out, with as many signatures as possible; let the prayer be cool and respectful, shewing that they have no desire to remove the power of magis- trates in licensing ; but that the individual. shall not be deprived of his property or livelihood without the fiat of a jury ¢ of his countrymen. THE ART OF BREWING, 19 Now let us look, by way of example, at the taxes and burdens of a house rated at forty pounds per annum, in the city of Westminster. £. s. d. Beer licence = - - 440 Spirit ditto - - - 10 1 0 Wine ditto ~ “= - 480 Tobacco ditto - - - 010 O Additional duty on glass - 60 0 Quartering two soldiers, or paying them out, at 6s. each'per month 7 16 0 Two newspapers | -. - 1915 6 Addition duty - - 1 8 2 House tax by the rent - 410 0 Window tax - - - 101°! Landtax + - - - 210 0 Waiter - - - - 2 2 0 Poor rate. - - - - 6 9 6 Paving, lighting, and watching 3.2 6 Water’ - - - - 20.0 £83 17. 8 .. In addition to all this, the expence of | coals and lights, whether candles, oil, or c 2 20 THE ART OF BREWING. gas, will amount to at least ninety pounds per annum. Do individuals thus subscribing to the exigencies of the state, deserve to be put out of the pale and protection of the law, and rendered paupers at the: will of any. nan, without a fait inquiry by a jury of their countrymen ? The case of the injured Mr. Meek is fresh in.the remembrance of the ‘public, and has made no small impression on the minds of the judges of the court of King’s Bench... It is to be hoped that it will make an equal impression on the minds of magistrates, and cause them to act in a way, that not even a shade of suspicion shall attach to their conduct. At the same time it is but justice to pay the ma- gistry of the country in general, the highest respect and compliment. In this edition ‘I have the satisfaction of observing an action was tried in the court of King’s Bench, charging Thomas Collins, : Esq. Sir Nathaniel Conant, and Samuel Mills, _ THE ART OF BREWING. 21 Esq. with unlawfully conspiring to with- hold a license from an alehouse, he, Meek, having ceased to deal with Messrs. Meux, Reid, and Co. when they were all found guilty of a corrupt refusal of the licence from the above motive. Feb..27, 1822. In the country towns, publicans have suffered most severely from the quartering of soldiers. It is a fact within my own knowledge, that a man who kept the Bull’s Head, at East Grinstead,. was obliged to sell his bed to purchase meat for soldiers billetted upon him. Country publicans are also most griev- ously oppressed by their brewers. ‘Not only are they obliged to pay whatever price these gentlemen demand, but the public and the hard-working labourer, are com- pelled to drink whatever trash they chuse to send them. Ona journey into Devon- shire, which the author took lately, he © stopped at Bridport todinner. On asking the waiter, what beverage he had to drink, he replied, ‘‘ Very good porter, Sir;” on c3 22 THE ART OF BREWING _ tasting of which, it proved so. bad no one could drink it—nothing like that whole- some beverage called IntrrE Burt BEER. Upon enquiry, I understood, that out of ‘twenty-one public houses in that town, twenty are in the hands of the brewer. In Hertfordshire, in-a town where a Baronet and Member of Parliament re- sides, three houses lately fell into the hands of a Brewer. The terms offered to the landlords were as follow :—The beer to be - raised three shillings per barrel; to sell no other beer, not even London bottled por- ter ; to quit the house at a day’s notice, in case of giving offence, or making any. breach in the agreement, of which only one copy was to be signed, and that to be held in the hands of the brewer. One publican out of the three signed it, and a clearance of his bottled porter immediate- ly took place, which was allowed for. The other two had notice to quit. - Should these remarks meet the eye of any Member of Parliament, I trust they — THE ART OF BREWING, 23 will have that weight as to occasion his interference once more in the House of Commons, in behalf of the unfortunate: publican. To private brewers I trust I shall give no offence in disclaiming against the inor- dinate waste of malt in their brewings, and who may, by attending to the following instructions, . be enabled to make a good and wholesome beverage upon moderate principles. I cannot help finding fault _ with the dreadful and abominable waste of - grain innoblemen and gentlemen’s families, in.using from nine to twelve bushels of malt to a hogshead of ale. There can be no merit in having beer, a single horn of which will. make a. man drunk. The - great strength of such beer renders it unfit for common drink, and those who drink wine cannot digest it. If the process be well conducted, two hogsheads instead of one may be obtained from the same quan- _ tity of malt, quite strong enough for any use. c4 24 THE ART OF BREWING. At the time the Marquis of Lands- downe, then Lord Henry Petty, brought a bill-into the House of Commons, to lay a tax on private brewers by assessment, I was surprized to hear Sir W. W. Wynne observe, that private brewers consumed more malt than public ones, consequently paid more malt duty, and therefore should be excused. Surely, it is a very poor ar- gument, that private waste can at all con- tribute to public benefit. ‘ In the debate upon this question, it was stated by his lordship, that there were 750,000 quarters of maltannually consumed in private brew- ing. The Public Brewer would pay a mil- lion of money duty on this quantity. I never could discover why, in times like the present, when all people are so op- pressed with taxes, that the labourer should be obliged to pay a tax which his master | escapes. This is certainly the case. The working mechanic, or common labourer, — who has.no means of erecting an appa- ratus, or time to use it, pays a duty of one penny for every quart of strong beer he THE ART OF BREWING. 25 drinks, which his master avoids who brews his own. Thus the private brewer escapes the duty, as well as the expences incident to a public brewery, and supposes there is an amazing profit attached to the public one, whereas, in fact, this is a mere sup- position, without the least foundation. | There never occurred a better opportu- nity for effecting the purpose of the tax on the private brewer, than when the Chan- cellor of the Exchequer thought proper to take off the duty on malt, in order that the lower ranks should be relieved in pro- portion with the higher ones, upon the abolition of the income tax. If the hon. genfleman had taken the duty off the X beer in the public breweries, then would the private brewer have had to pay a duty on malt, and the labouring man would have felt much benefit. As it now ope- rates, the two millions per annum is most- ly in the maltster’s pocket. However, these ‘are matters which I sincerely hope will occupy the attention of the legisla- ture. . 26 THE ART OF BREWING.- TECHNICAL TERMS ‘USED IN” THE. BREWERIES. ———— Liguor.—For water. Goods.—So the malt is called in the mash - tun. _¢ Charging the capper.—Filling the copper . with water, is called, charging the copper. Waste—Is the loss of liquor in the pro- cess, viz. on the goods, hops, eva- poration from boiling, in the cool- ers, &c. . e THE ART OF BREWING. 27 Lengths.—Are the quantity: of barrels or gallons obtained in the brewing. Copper through.—The copper is through when the first ebullition of boiling is perceived. Gyle.—Is applied to a single brewing. Party Gyle.—Is when table beer is brewed after strong, by capping on, or tak- ing the last wort for table. Setting goods——So called when by turning on the liquor too hot, the goods become lumpy in balls, and fixed together like puddings.—There is no remedy for this; make the most of what you can get off, and fatten the pigs and poultry with the grist. Grist. —Is the produce of the malt ground down. Capping on After taking the first and second mashes for strong ‘beer, you add a certain quantity of malt for table beer in the third mash. 28 THE ART OF BREWING. Off and on.—This is used by the brewer.to the man who stands hy the copper- cock, who is generally the stoker of the copper-fire. When the brewer gets his liquor to a proper heat, and has ordered his-fire to be stopped, he calls out, ‘“* Turn on ;” the man answers, ‘* Here’s on.” So when the brewer finds, by his float, as much liquor as is required has run into the mash tun, he calls “ Off;” theanswer must be instant, ‘‘ Here’s off.” Float. —Is an instrument composed of a rule, say thirty-six inches, regularly marked, with a large piece of cork, about an inch thick at the bottom; _ by dipping of which, and consulting the excise table, the quantity of liquor used is known to a gallon ; ; so that the proper ‘length is ob- tained; it also applies to all the vessels and utensils gauged. The exact quantity in each being thus _ discovered. THE ART OF BREWING. #9 Dips.—Are the wet and dry inches in dif- ferent utensils. Rousing. —This is the act of beating up the liquor in the copper, or when the worts are turning out, so that the hops may not remain in the copper. . Or, in. beating up the yeast in the tun; this is called rousing the cop- per or the tun. | Turning over —The hot liquor from the copper, used in the mashing, is called, turning over so many bar-_ rels in mashing. Mashing.—The stirring the malt in the mash tun, either with oars or mash- ing machine. Oar.—So called. A long pole, with a triangle at the bottom, and open bars. | . Worts.—The mucilage from the malt. The first wort is called the hop wort ; the second wort; and the third, the blues. 30 | THE.ART OF BREWIMG. Raw axdreturned worts.—After the process of mashing for the first brewing is over, a quantity of liquor is turned over the goods. This is used in the next brewing. | Letting down.—After the worts are suffi- ciently cooled, they are let down into the working tuns. Pitching.—Is the application of yeast in the working tun after letting down. Thus it is ~ said, pitched at 60 de- grees. . Cleansing.—After sufficient fermentation, the gyle is taken from the squares, and cleansed in casks on the stil- lons, where it further. ferments un- til it becomes fine. Filling up.—As the fob and yeast works out of the bung-hole, it is. necessary to add fresh beer from the stillon, _ and fill up to supply the loss. . Faces of malt. —The residium which is found at the bottom of the coolers, THE ART OF BREWING. $l ‘great care should be taken to pre- vent it getting into the working tun. For.—This of all things is to be avoided ;. for when once he creeps in, it is dif- ficult to hunt him out. - It is an ill smell, and.a worse: taste, occasioned by neglect, uncleanliness, and bad heats. It is too often tasted in pri- vate breweries, as the vessels are thrown aside uncleansed and unat- tended to. The best method of hunting him out will be hereafter given. Fermentation, or attenuation:—This is one of the: most mecessary studies for a _- young brewer; it is found by the action of the fixed air contained in the yeast upon the‘worts in the tun, the grosser ‘and heavier qualities of the worts are broken ; the heat in- creases, and the worts themselves become lighter. It is essential to pay every attention to this part of THE ART OP BREWING. the process, and to attain a know- ledge of the thermometer and sac- chrometer. Breaking in.—The art of mixing stale or ‘returned beer with fresh brewed beer, in order to recover it, and make.it saleable, and also to >_ bring young beer forward. Thermometer. —An instrument to mark the degrees of heat in the liquor, worts, _ working tuns, &c. Those made for breweries are of tin, and are marked with different degrees of heat to boiling 212° on which the quicksilver rises or recedes. - Some _ thermometers are termed blind, . having a metal scale, which the _ brewer carries in his pocket; by which means he conceals his pro- cess from those about him. Sacchrometer.—Is an instrument to disco- ver the weight of the extract or saccharine matter obtained from the malt above the weight of the _THE ART OF BREWING. 33 water. The are sold by Messrs. — Dring and Fage, instrument ma- kers, Tooley-street, Borough ; and Mr. Long, Tower-street, London. — X.—Beer, marked X, is strong beer. T.—Table beer, in a common brewhouse, must always be marked with a T, under a penalty of fifty pounds. Plant.—The whole apparatus of a brew- ery, collectively, is terined a Plant. 34 THE ART OF BREWING. UTENSILS. The first. consideration for a Brewer, victualler, or a private brewer, is the erec- . tion of the utensils for the work; and here, I am well aware, I have to encoun- ter strong and rooted prejudices. It will be said, ‘it was so in my father’s time, and it shall so remain.” Remember, in answer. to this, every thing has changed and become dearer—and no waste can be afforded. Every person who brews with his copper near the ground, must know the waste in bailing and carrying away the worts in pails and buckets. Let him con- _ sider the value of his first wort, a single quart of which is equal to a gallon. Not THE ART OF BREWING. 35 only this, but the saving of time and la- bour. Worts are not. rendered better by being knocked about-—they lose their re- gular heat, and fermentation is greatly impeded. I beg leave now to refer the reader to a list of utensils really useful: for a brew- house, they may be varied as to size. A liquor-back I should think unnecessary for any thing below a ten, quarter plant, Utensils.—T he principal ones in a brew- house, are Liquor back Copper back ‘Copper Hop back Mash tun Under back Cooling backs Squares, or working tuns Stillons Hose Liquor pump,and pipe D2 36 THE ART OF BREWING. -. . Wort pump and pipe Jigger pump oo '. Mill-work, or hand-mill, as de- «scribed . Filling cans Tasters (made of tin) ‘Yeast scoops - . Scrapers, &c. &c. . mo, The Liquor-back : is erected at the 2 tap. of the ‘brewhouse, resting on the jams. of the chimney ; its size in proportion to the - brewhous