The Theory and Practice of Brewing (3rd ed)

The Theory and Practice of Brewing (3rd ed)

a THIRD EDITION. THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF BREWING eee] CONTAINING THE CHEMISTRY, HISTORY, AND RIGHT APPLICATION OF ALL BREWING INGREDIENTS AND PRODUCTS; A FULL EXPOSITION OF THE NEWLY-DISCOVERED PRINCIPLES OF CONVERSION AND EXTRACTION IN THE MASH-TUN; THE PHILOSOPHY OF CLIMATE, SEASON, AND SITE; CRITIQUES ON THE MODUS OPERANDI OF FERMENTATION, AND THE PREVENTION OF EABLY ACIDITY: ALBO, PAany new Practical Obserbations ON BREWING LONDON AND DUBLIN PORTER, EAST INDIA PALE ALE, EXPORT STOUT, &c. &e. BY W. L. TIZARD, LATE OPERATIVE BREWER AT THE NINE ELMS BREWERY, VAUXHALL, AND NOW BREWERS’ ENGINEER, 34}, ALDGATE. LONDON: SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS, OR THE PRINTERS. 1850. BATTED COLLEGE LICRARY Boa Tee Hind OF G.uuGe C. DEAPSEY Seis of coats Cc. Dempsey ¢ re PREFACE. » Norninea can be more gratifying to an author who seriously values his own reputation, than to be under- stood and appreciated, and to see his works pass through the market with a cheerful and steady sale ; particularly ‘when he is devoted to rely more on his own perform- ances than upon high patronage and special privilege, and to seek his reward in the sound judgment of prac- tical, discerning men: how greatly, then, must the writer of the present treatise value the estimation in which his former editions are held by a judicious por- tion of his professional brethren in town and country, amongst whom he has the satisfactory pleasure to enumerate a full third of the fraternity at large, many of them occupying comparative eminence in the trade, and enjoying deserved popularity in the ranks and paths of society! In short, the encouragement which he has experienced from time to time, has induced him on each renewal of his occasion, to bring forth, as Oliver Goldsmith expresses it, his “best dish” for the edifi- cation of his admiring and obliging friends ; for the plain deed of having sold his first impression of five vi PREFACE. hundred copies within six months from the dawn of publication, and his second edition, consisting of five hundred more, in the space of three years ; and finding a great number of this his third five hundred bespoke before the day of its maturity has arrived, he may indeed look back upon his undertaking with a degree of mental pride and gratitude. Thus situated, and contemplating upon a demand which advances with considerably more celerity than in the preceding instance, he cannot in justice apply any other than his best skill and judgment to render his work as serviceable as his utmost ability can accom- plish. The author would, therefore, as some token of his desire to impart a degree of toleration to his labours, have his readers to perceive, that in each re-publication he has not confined himself to a mere revisal of his former sentiments, or to a hurried recapitulation of his thoughts, for the purpose of giving a new spur to a subject which has exhausted his energies in the original compilement of its matter, as is much too commonly the practice of book-makers who are ambitious to build their fame upon the number of nominal editions which they can palm forth into public view: such a course would be quite inconsistent with the doctrine of per- fect mashes, thorough transmutations, and entire gyles, which he has sought to establish on the abolition of inimical sparges and returns, and the supplantation of that tendency to acidity and staleness to which the working-up of old goods must decidedly contribute. Hence, in the preparation of his second imprint, up- wards of two hundred pages of the first were removed, PREFACE. vii and more than three hundred pages of new matter were introduced ; inasmuch as experience had brought many things into his view which, on his first essay, he had neither contemplated nor conceived ; and assuredly an ample notice of modern improvements must at all times afford a greater degree of interest than the re- petition of quotations from the opinions of predecessors, however wisely and eloquently they may have ema- nated. Upon the same principle the present edition has likewise been devised and arranged, though with some- what fewer innovations, yet with a greater measure of concentration and a fuller consolidation of ideas; he has therefore expunged some copious references to the ingenious productions of others, which he formerly gave for their benefit in total disregard of any personal advantage to himself, but, on the contrary, at consider- able expense in the promulgation of that which did not individually concern him. In so far exercising his own reason, discarding diffi- dence, and relying on experience and perseverance as bases of superior knowledge, he trusts that the volume now produced will be found to contain much additional information that may be willingly received and usefully applied, as he has substituted some new matter of con- siderable consequence to himself and others, and espe- cially to those who do not object to be guided by his arguments and by the facts which he adduces: these, in the main, are such as necessarily and naturally arise to a person who is constantly accumulating a species of knowledge through a daily increased connexion and a watchful solicitude over the object in pursuit. The viii PREFACE. whole work has been most carefully revised and cor- rected with as much vigilance as time would permit, both by the author and by other competent parties under his instruction ; and although some trivial typical errors have again unavoidably crept into the press, they are too few and insignificant to deserve critical atten- tion; nevertheless, in courtesy to his readers, he has thought their very existence worthy of this brief notice, flattering himself that decent candour will forbear ani- madversion upon trifles, on consideration that his time and mind are now perpetually engaged in practical business, either in his manufactory at home, or in superintending the erection and operation of his new Steam Plants in various parts of the United Kingdom. Adverting to this subject with all the sincerity he is capable of entertaining, and with as much and as strict truth as he can accommodate, he may perhaps be par- doned for having taken opportunity to remark, in com- mon with other observers, that the rapid pace at which the progress of invention moves forward, and the mani- fold and important changes wrought in the various departments of our mechanicul powers, whether adapted to internal commerce or to foreign and divergent inter- course, are truly surprising to all who attentively medi- tate upon their wonderful effects ; and in few branches of industrial art has the influence of modernisation proceeded more spiritedly of late years, than particu- larly in the management of the Brewery, where the Steam Engine is busily sweeping into oblivion the manual exercise of the oar, and is fastly superseding the horse-wheel of former exploit in engineering ; and where steam, as a vehicle, has found employment, to PREFACB. ix the expulsion of the furnace and the abandonment of the dome copper, and almost to the renunciation of coppers of all descriptions, until the open utensil has become nearly as scarce in the order-book, as stage wagons and post coaches upon the public roads, which delighted our ancestors by the easy and expeditious mode of transit they afforded ; so that costly purchases, expensive erections, money-eating repairs, and purse- corroding labour, are ceasing to have place in respect- able establishments, through the all but universal sovereignty of the mighty giant Steam. If the Author’s exertions have at all assisted in effecting this revolu- tion, as he is persuaded that they have, he may safely congratulate his patrons on the suppression of a grievous evil, whether his share in the compensation be liberal or circumscribed, and equal to their generosity or not. At all events, be his auspices stimulative or restrictive, he enjoys the credit of having worked hard and well, with due independence, earnest zeal, and a conscious- ness of having acted right in his endeavour to found a new circle of practice in a very important profession, upon a principle that can be recognized by the reflective and studious portion of its members. In so doing, he does not hesitate to acknowledge the sacrifice of a com- fortable fortune, with many years of deep anxiety and laborious toil ; and if his reward has been less produc- tive in pecuniary favour than a combination of circum- stances once led‘him to anticipate, any disappointment which he may think himself entitled to feel, is con- siderably mitigated in the heartfelt assurance that he has fearlessly and stedfastly performed the duty of his a x PREFACE. vocation, and has received the encomia and approbation of intelligent and well-informed men of all classes and professions, possessing a capacity to estimate literature and science according to their merits and imper- fections. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGES I. Introduction . . . . . : . . 1-24 Il. Ingredients . . 7 wees Ill, Mating. 6 ww eee ROA IV. Water . . . . . . . . - 105—132 V. Mashing. ©. «7 eee 1831738 VI. Sparging eee ee 194 182 VII. Saccharometry . : . . . . . 183—213 VINE, Hopp 6. wee eee 2 249 IX. Boiling ©. wee ee 250 — 275 X. Cooling . . . : . . . . - 276—292 XI. Refrigeration’. .. . . . . - . 293-318 XII. Fermenting places. . . . . . «. SI9—344 XIII. Ferments . . . . . . . . $45—374 XIV. Alcohol . . . . . . . . - 375—397 XV. Gentle Fermentation . . . . . - 398—415 XVI. Rapid Fermentation . . - 6 . + 416—431 XVII. Porter . . . . . ‘ . . - 432—463 XVIIL Exports. 2. 0. wet 44497 KIX. Storing. 2. 2 wee 478 — 498 XX. Racking. 7 : . . . - 499—525 ERRATA. Page Line 65, 25, for suceptible, read susceptible. 133, on page omitted at heading. 23 - ity quantity. 398, _—ihead ; dale “ Ure’s principle.” 502, 13, — posess, read pussess. THE THEORY AND PRACTICE or BREWING. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION—THE PATENT; ITS PURPORT AND PRACTICAL BENRFITS—OLD NOTIONS—HISTORY OF BREWING—CURIOUS CUSTOMS—DERIVATIONS AND CRITICAL REMARKS-——DISCOVERY OF DIASTASE—SCHEMES AND FAILURES —~REMEDY SUGGESTED. Soton, the Athenian lawgiver, who was one of the seven sages or wise men of Greece, taught his disciples the prudent maxim, “Know thyself ;” and truly wise are they who know how to adopt his dictum and adapt it to their own individual circumstances ; for, as Peri- ander, another of those venerable seers, says, “ With industry, nothing is impossible.” With these impres- sions stamped upon the imagination, we may also bear in mind the words of our own countryman, the im- mortal and philosophical Locke, who observes, in his Essay on the Human Understanding, that though “no man is under necessity to know every thing, yet, they that have particular callings ought to understand them.” Sentiments of this nature deserve the utmost regard ; and hence it is that the author and compiler of this B 2° INTRODUCTION. treatise, excited by a desire to pursue a task enjoined by the inspiring manifestation of courageous zeal, and having his mind stamped with deep impressions, re- ceived within the course of twenty years, during which he has been practically and extensively occupied in the superintendence of Breweries, has studiously endea- voured to imbibe the sublime essence of philosophy, as far as applicable to his profession, in order to possess himself of adequate ability to fulfil his engagements, and to impart practical and rational information to others. How far his efforts have been successful, the following pages are intended to show, especially to such as may be disposed to doubt the reality of that share of public approbation which already has arisen from his exertions. Her Majesty having granted him her Royal Letters Patent, for the introduction of his several inventions to facilitate and improve the Art of Brewing ; he calls the attention of society, and especially of Ale and Porter Brewers, Distillers, and Vinegar Makers, to the various instruments that he has invented and successfully introduced, and that constitute, in the opinion of those who work them, a series of machines, implements, and utensils, of the greatest possible benefit to THE TRADE; and he sees the necessity of upholding his Patent-right by protecting all who favour him with their orders; and of detailing, for general instruction and public satisfaction, the principles that he has acted upon in accomplishing the means by which each respec- tive portion of his apparatus completes the purpose that he has had in view while attending to its especial department in the establishment. Many sleeping part- ners and young practical brewers, may require necessary information to a certain extent; and the opinions of more experienced men following the “copper side,” THE PATENT. 8 backed by the doctrines of chemists of standard cele- brity in the scientific world, may be of real service to others, whilst they are acceptable to him as corrobora- tive evidence of the utility of his system, now completely reduced to practice through the completeness of the mechanism which sustains it. For his own part, the testimonials which he has attached to his former editions, added to his own knowledge of the quantity and quality of extract produced by his own machinery under his own eye, and by others who employ it, com- pletely convince him of its extraordinary powers; and no other guarantee is wanting firmly to determine his own mind to continue and extend the principles that he has wrought out. Still all demonstration is useless, unless it be power- ful enough to displace hastily-formed prejudices, or to remove from the conviction the effects of former and weaker evidence. The remark has been made, that practice without theory is like music without notes ; and it is the discord and confusion of ideas that is now sought to be rectified in the Brewery: consequently the task, however arduous, must, and the author flatters himself that it does, accord with correct principles, which require to be kept in harmonious order. Although his apparatus and its effect are open to inspection and inquiry, wherever erected, in town or country, and though he might content himself by refe- rence to the several establishments where it is at work, for a clear comprehension of its merits, (and such a short course might, in a pecuniary sense, afford imme- diate and ample satisfaction to some inquirers,) yet, in a state of society like the present, when philosophy and trading enterprise travel rapidly round and through the land, and when the demand for scientific aid is loud and peremptory throughout every branch of the arts B2 4 INTRODUCTION. and manufactures, the act of withholding theoretical and useful information from a thirsty world, would be as criminal as the publication in darker days was dangerous; and were the exposition of the wonderful merits of the lately detected substance called piasTasE the sole motive for the present author’s intrusion on a reading and thinking community ; that alone, as a means to an important end, would lead him to the task of fully and fairly developing its properties to the Brewer, whose trade, as a science, is but in its infancy, though there were Brewers in Solon’s day, 2400 years before the present critical generation sprang into activity. Many are forward enough to observe, and perhaps to contend, that the ideas of persons who have written on this old subject cannot be new ; and the doctrine is good as far as it goes ; but new men have novel notions —perhaps not altogether founded on any that have had prior circulation. Another well-received opinion, because anciently held as a good dogma, was, that though all things may change, nothing is new; which is equivalent to saying, that a man never wears a new coat. A few brief questions will settle the absurdity. Is the patent Hot Masher new? Can the invention for which it was granted be otherwise than new? Are its purposes unchanged from old practice? Is Diastase a new dis- covery? Is a lymphine fermentation in wort an old theory, or any portion of one? Is the transmutation of mucilage into beneficial and pure saccharine matter new? Is the conversion of starch, hordein, and hops, by steam, and the salvation of the essential oils, new? Is the desideratum of a constant temperature new in practice? Is an additional saving of 5, 10, or 15 per cent. new? These are points for examination and re- flection, notwithstanding the saying which has existed HISTORY OF BREWING. 5 from time immemorial, that “any old woman can brew ;” which is no argument to the purpose; for so could the Armenian matrons, in their little way, before Socrates was born. Still, however, dames can brew; though when we meet with thousands (not to say millions) of barrels of beer quite unfit for drinking, we do not thence conclude that every old woman is fit to brew, and much less that the generality of such women can brew perfectly, or at all advantageously. Few old women are chemists; fewer chemists are brewers, which is exemplified at Chapter VI. herein ; and fewer still are the brewers who, by attention to chemical transformations and chemical constituents, have been able to increase the quantity of the useful extract from malt, and to reject the errors, both in theory and in practice, that eventually reduce the labour of the old-woman brewer to futility and loss. Whilst the author experienced some thoughtless op- position to his views as a brewer, he did not shrink from a defence declaratory of his sentiments, knowing, with Nennius of old, that “ it is better to drink a wholesome draught of truth from a humble vessel, than poison mixed with honey from a golden goblet. Truth regards not who is the teller, nor in what manner it is told, but that the thing be true; and she does not despise the jewel she has rescued from the mud, but adds it to her former treasures.” Hence, as his truth has been suffered to prevail through the cessation of annoyance, he has no wish to rub old sores or to revive animosities, which at the best are petty subterfuges in the progress of busi- ness and the pursuit of truth: he therefore proceeds to explain some brewing words. Gr. Olvoc (Oinos), Lat. vinwm, Eng. wine, and Kpl@- voc (Krithinos), hordearius, barleyan, from the root 6 INTRODUCTION. Kpl0n (Krithee), hordewm, barley, are the two words used by Zenophon, who died Bo. 359. Dr. Thomson, who refers to the Euterpe of Herodotus, c. 77, for the above account of the Egyptians, adds, that, “in the time of Tacitus, whose treatise on the manners of the Germans (de Moribus Germanorum, c. 23) was written about the end of the first century of the Christian era, beer was the common drink of the Germans. Pliny (Nat. Hist. lib. xxii. c. 25) mentions beer as employed in Spain, under the names of celia and ceria, and in Gaul under the name of cerevisia.” He then proceeds to explain, that “ almost every species of corn has been used for the manufacture of beer. In Europe it ig usually made from barley ; in India, from rice ; in the interior of Africa (according to Mungo Park), from the seeds of the holows spicatus” [spiked or bearded wall- hardy]. Some of these observations are borne out by other authors of antiquity; and the cerevisia of Pliny evi- dently takes its name from Ceres, the goddess of corn, —lexicographers doubting whether it ought not to be written cererisia. Plautus more minutely calls it cerealts liquor ; that is, liquor used at the “harvest home, or solemn feasts in honour of that goddess ;” and both he and Columella, a famous writer on agriculture, who flourished in the reign of Claudius, and consequently whose work is coeval with the invasion of Britain by that emperor, called this liquor zythwm, which, if we trace it to its Greek origin, is there written ZéOo¢ (Zythos), and is interpreted by Schrevelius thus: “ Po- tus ex hordeo cerevisia :” DRINK FROM BARLEY; and he works out the derivation from Zéun (Zumee), a ferment, which again descends from Zéw (Zeo), to seethe or boil, and hence also our word sea. Bariey.—That barley, the hordeum vulgare cultivated HISTORY OF BREWING. CURIOUS CUSTOMS. 7 in Britain, was known to the Romans, is evident from Virgil, who uses it plurally, hordea, as we do the word oats ; and Pliny tells of the hordearts gladtatores, a kind of fencers, whose sustenance was barley. Authors again write, that when the Romans were in Britain, they found there a species of wine made from this kind of corn, by the aborigines called baer, which in excellence of fla- vour and quality surpassed all the wines of Rome. Hence, though they possibly mistake Britain for Ger- many, the English word beer, and its ferment, barm, with an oriental termination ; but the latter part of the word b: relates to the field in which it grows, rather yY Baer tho corn, and is purely Anglo-Saxon ; and cer- _-~ tainly Cesar found little of the cerevisia here ; for he says (Bel. Gal. iv. 14), “Interiores plerique frumenta non serunt, sed lacte et carne vivunt.” (The more tn- ward for the most part do not sow corn, but live on milk and flesh.) Whatever, therefore, the Roman soldiers found, was necessarily in small space, and with due deference to them in the sense of taste, was perhaps as nectareous as that which modern topers term “ dipup,” “bastard vinegar,” or “ whistle-belly,” of which, they say, he who has the most has the worst share; for though it might have been “potus coctus” (cooked or boiled drink), and bears, as such, the flavour of anti- quity, it had nothing in its nature partaking of modern brewing principles, or that emanated from such, how- ever fine and choicely bouqueted. Custom is not always easily accounted for. The Britons drank mead till the introduction of agriculture by the Romans, and many are the encomia passed upon it in the songs of their bards ; but the Roman farmers undoubtedly found the soil suitable to the growth of barley, on comparing it with the lands of Gaul and Germany, which they had visited in their progress. A record of brewing in the 8 INTRODUCTION. fifth century says, that the grain was then steeped in water, made to germinate, and was afterwards dried and ground; after which it was infused in a certain quan- tity of water, and then fermented, when it became a pleasant, warming, strengthening, and intoxicating liquor; and that it was commonly made from barley, though sometimes from wheat, oats, or millet. This is all that we know of the Romano-British brewery. Leav- ing, therefore, the Roman arts and the Roman glory to take their spread over a conquered country, as civiliza- tion matured and good faith became mutual and com- mon, we come to the days of the Saxons and Danes, who butchered and caroused here during the space oy 617 years, or from 449 to 1066. AE.—The learned Camden, in the Degbyshire of his Britannia, says that Ale is from the Danis d cela, © not, as Ruellius derives it, from Alica. ‘“ The Britons,” he adds, “called it cwrw, for which we have in Diosco- rides the corruption curmt, a liquor made of barley. This, our barley wine, which Julian the Apostate smartly calls in an epigram [lupoyevi kal Boduov ov Bodmov, q. d. corn made of wheat and oats, not the liquor of Bacchus. It is the ancient and peculiar liquor of the English and Britons, and at t thes same time the most wholesome.” In a work entitled “Domestic Life j in England,” we read, that when the ons inabited these fegions, they drank mead and as their common beverage, using wine only as a me é or a luxury. From this word elle Dr. Johnson derives the more modern ale, which is still pronounced yell or yal in the northern counties, where many relics of Saxon manners, customs, and language remain; but q@lle signifies universal, whence all; and ale seems to have been held in general request among that people. Ina, who was king of Wes- HISTORY OF BREWING. DERIVATIONS. 9 sex from 689, names the beverage alle in his laws, which restrict the use of it ; and by a law laid down by King Edgar the Pacific, who died in 975, the huscarles and guests were limited to half a pint at each draught, and tankards were made to hold two quarts each, hav- ing pegs fixed one above another at proper distances, dividing the measure into eight equal portions, and certain punishment was inflicted on any one who drank beyond his peg ; but when the surface had subsided to the centre of it, he handed the vessel to his next com- panion. When the Danes had possession of the country, they were most immoderate sots; and when a Saxon anda Dane drank out of the same bowl, each was pledged ‘not to stab the other while drinking. This ale was fer- mented like their mead, differing from it only in being extracted from mongrel malt instead of honey-comb, and tinctured with herbs. In their revels they enter- tained harpers, gleemen, jugglers, and tumblers, who also frequented guest-houses and ale-shops, in which women were the brewers ; and even till as recently as the reign of Edward III, if a man attempted to bake, brew, or dye, he was considered an innovator. Chester ms to have been in great repute; for the Danes “decreed, that any inhabitant of that city, brewing bad ale, should be placed in a ducking-chair and plunged into a pool of muddy water, or should forfeit four shil- lings. In the time of, Edward the Confessor, mead sold at 16d., spiced ale at 8d., and common ale at 4d. the gallon ; but we are not told what kind of spice they used. Brew.— Most of our domestic words are derived from the Anglo-Saxon language, and particularly such as contain a w, that nation having introduced this letter into the island, though, according to Johnson, the word brew is of Dutch origin, and signifies to cook ; and we 10 INTRODUCTION. find that with the ancient Romans a Brewer was desig- nated cerevisia coctor, or cooker of beer. That eminent chemist, Dr. Thomson, says, in his section on Vinous Fermentation, that “under this name is comprehended every species of fermentation which terminates in the formation of an intoxicating liquid. Now these liquids, though numerous, may be comprehended under two general heads, namely, those which are obtained from the decoctions of seeds, and those which are obtained from the juices of plants. The liquids of the first class are denominated beer or wash; those of the second wine.” Here are two more brewing words, each begin- ning with w; and a third is wort. Masu.—As to wash, which the Saxons would write weesh, or perhaps wesc, its general termination, ash, im- plies something loose, as mash, lash, smash, crash, sash, fish, (fisc,) desk, to ask, and the ash-tree, which grew detached from the group of the forest. Mash, which Johnson takes from the Dutch masche, has something extensive implied in its initial letter, and so have marshes, marches, and the meshes of a net; and a mash, whether of culinary vegetable roots or of malt, is syno- nymous with a comprehensive mass or mess; and the mode of cooking such a mass by soak or semi-distillation, which is a way of nursing it into solution or digesti- bility, is brewing it, whether performed in a mash-tun, a tea-pot, a vegetable steamer, or if it be a collection of soluble vapour concocted in a cloud on the mind. Such is the plain meaning of the words mash and brew, with which most good housewives are practically ac- quainted in one way or other. Matr anp Wort. These words also are Anglo-Saxon. Malt signifies any thing malled, being a mere curtail- ment of the word, as wort is of worked, and scores are like them. In the old herbals, descriptive of plants HISTORY OF BREWING. DERIVATIONS. ll that were brewed into medicinal drinks,—which word drink is also Saxon, importing the act of imbibing, as well as the matter sucked in; and which kinds of drink were much used anterior to the introduction of hops and malted barley,—we read of ragwort, spearwort, spleen- wort, and crosswort, all so called from the shape or position of their leaves ; and of mugwort, figwort, and moneywort, from the structure of their seed-vessels ; while pilewort has its title from the resemblance of its roots; bloodwort from the colour of its leaves; and some have their names from the effects they produce, as sopewort, pepperwort, butterwort, and sneezewort ; but more from the efficacy ascribed to them in curing various diseases or infirmities of the human frame, as lungwort, liverwort, rupturewort, barrenwort, birth- wort, motherwort, goutwort, bladderwort, stammerwort, throatwort, and woundwort; and some were pre-emi- nently dedicated to their titular saints, as St. John’s, St. James’s, St. Peter's, all in consequence of the virtues they were said to possess when put to work within the human or other animal body ; and surely staggerwort must have been as potent as any. To proceed to the history of the wort prepared by the brewer to work in the fermenting vat, and those “de- coctions of seeds ” by which it is produced: the Saxons and Danes were no great improvers, and consequently we may infer that the art continued with them much in the same rude Britico-Armenian state in which they found it, especially as the Normans did not stumble over any brewhouses or malthouses when they compiled the “ Dom Boe” or register, though where they met with a molin (or miln) they valued and booked it ; nor were the English likely to exert themselves while under the Norman subjugation, which lasted till the signing of Magna Charta in 1208. In fact, the Normans reduced 12 INTRODUCTION. the Danish gluttonous habit of four heavy gormandis- ings a day, to two abstemious meals ; but it is recorded of a certain bishop of Ely, in the reign of Henry I, that his table was replenished daily with “all sorts of beasts that roam in the land, of fishes that swim in the water, and of birds that fly in the air,’ and with beverages of French wine, spiced mead, mulberry hypocras, pigmait, claret, morat, cider, perry, and ale ; and we also learn that in the days of Henry 11, whose two meal-hours were nine in the morning and five in the evening, his richer subjects regaled on wine and mead, but the poorer class drank cider and ale. In the reign of Henry IIL the price of ale was regulated by that of corn and wine, and the women who brewed it sold it at a penny a gallon in the cities, and at the rate of three or four gallons for a penny in rural places. Brer.—Lovvges.— Whether some alteration took place about this period in the mode of brewing, or whe- ther malting was commenced upon a new and enlarged plan, it may be difficult to say ; but many novelties were now introduced from abroad, and the wings of com- merce began to expand. A brewhouse or malthouse ventilating blind is called a louvre, which is a Norman word, and consequently not of recent introduction, but seems to have come with the influx of improvements, though the brewers may have borrowed it from the tanneries. The old British word beer was also revived in this or the following reign, and seems to have superseded the ale of Saxon, Danish, and Norman make; for in the 17th of Edward I, anno 1289, amongst the charges for a man of rank travelling from Oxford to Canterbury with a retinue of six attendants, are sixpence for beer and a halfpenny for apples, whence we may presume that they had “lamb’s-wool” for supper, and that the maater was an ecclesiastic. On the following day, which HISTORY OF BREWING. CRITICAL REMARKS. 13 was Sunday, is a charge of 12d. for beer “for my lord at Westminster, when he held a breakfast there for knights, clerks, and esquires,” besides “two gallons of beer for the boys, 2d’ Edward IIL, after passing a severe law to restrain eating and drinking, gave an entertainment of thirty courses, called dinner, at nine in the morning, the fragments of which fed 1000 poor people. We have no account of the drink consumed ; but after dinner they had confections of cloves, cinnamon, grains of para- dise, ginger, &c., for dessert, which shows the kind of condiments to which the spicers and adulterators of those ages had recourse. Under Richard II., malt liquor was drunk at break- fast-time ; and that king, in 1389, gave a housewarming to 10,000 guests in his new hall at Westminster, which he had rebuilt, and where he kept Christmas, the break- fast consisting of boiled beef, sprats, herrings, brawn, bread and butter, mustard, malmsey, wine, and beer ; and this kind of fare then became common among the gentry, the monasteries grew into great note for their superior brewing, as did the colleges after them, and men had become brewers, having taken pattern from King Richard’s 2000 cooks. In 1421, one William Payne, of the Swan, in Threadneedle-street, London, refused to send a barrel to Henry V., then in France ; and report says, that in the following year the celebrated Whit- tington, who had been lord mayor in the last year of Richard’s reign, 1398, informed against the Brewers’ Company for selling their ale too dear, and had them fined 201. by the lord mayor then in office. From this time aleconners were appointed to inspect the mea- sures; and two years afterwards, being the second of Henry VI., the company had grown to sufficient conse- quence to be incorporated. In the reign of Edward IV., at the installation of Archbishop Neville in the province 14 INTRODUCTION. of York, among other extravagances enumerated, were 300 tuns of ale; and Edward himself gave breakfasts of bread, salt fish, and ale, to his nobility, at seven in the morning, dined at ten, and sat three hours, with a side table appropriated expressly to wine and ale, which were handed to the guests in goblets of pewter, wood, or horn ; supper was served at four ; and at nine, lords and ladies had livertes, or collations, with a gallon of beer and a quart of warm spiced wine to each; and there appears to have been a difference between the ale with which they broke fast, and the beer on which they supped. Brayley, in his “Londiniana,” vol. iv., informs us, that in the churchwardens’ accounts of Allhallows Staining, in London, in which Ironmongers’ Hall stands, is the following entry, made in 1494: “Payd for a kylcherkyn of good ale, wyche was drunkyn in the Irynmongars’ Hall, all charg’s born, 12s. 2d.” It must have been truly good ; for the same author has also discovered a bill of fare for fifty people of the Salters’ Company, dated 1506, and preserved as a record in the waiting- room of their hall, in which one of the items is, “1 kil- derkin of ale, 2s. 3d.” The great earl of Northumberland, in the time of Henries VII. and VIII., who had a family of 200 per- sons, allowed each of them a quart of beer and another of wine to breakfast every morning at six, and another of each to dinner at ten. Meat, drink, and fire, were then calculated to cost 24d. per head daily; and malt was sold at 4s, the quarter, which brewed two hogs- heads. Brewerizs.—No deal of sagacity is requisite to per- ceive that these establishments sprang up, though not of such magnitude as at present, when men began to take the trouble of brewing off the hands of the women; CRITICAL REMARKS. 15 for if there had not been a number of breweries in 1422, Whittington had not turned informer against the com- pany. In the fifteenth of Henry VIIL, alderman George Monoux was elected mayor of London, and fined 10001. for “neglecting to appear after being divers times called upon by letter and otherwise,” and next year, “on his petition and bill of supplication alleging his great age and feebleness, and offering to give a brewhouse adjoin- tng to the bridge-house in Southwark to the city, in con- sideration of being discharged from the office of alder- man, had the decree against him revoked, and his request granted, on some special conditions.” At least, therefore, that notable “brewhouse” the Anchor, at London Bridge End, which now consumes a million of quarters in nine years, has existed more than 320 years, as the occurrence took place in 1524: the precise year in which the old distich tells us that « Turkeys, carp, hops, pickerel and beer, Came into England all in one year ;” that is, beer of a new sort, qualified with hops, which opens a new chapter in the chronicles of the Brew- house. Ale and beer, though in some places named synony- mously, and in others indifferently, certainly never signified the same thing at the same time, though each may have changed character. Ale was the stronger of the two before this change of bitter, as it now is, in some places, though not in the same sense. It was then a strong extract fermented without hops; but beer was a revived word, as before noticed, appropriated exclusively to liquor obtained through the application of the hop. In and around London, at the present day, “beer” signifies porter, and “ale” is the paler pro- duction of the brewery, as exemplified in the light 16 INTRODUCTION. bitter article brewed for foreign consumption. In the southern and western parts of the kingdom, and in other country districts, “beer” is strong old ale, and “ale” is a weaker, fresher, or milder beverage. About Manchester, ale, distinguished from porter, is termed beer, and the stronger the more so; whereas in some parts farther northward and eastward, ale is brewed from malt, and beer from treacle ; so that the thirsty traveller must conform the language of his desire to the district in which he chances to alight. Lance, in his “Hop Farmer,” published in 1838, has the following explanatory document from a curious old book by Reynolde Scot, dated 1578 (20th Eliz): “The hoppes shall be wholesome for the body, and pleasanter of verdure or taste than such as be disorderly handled. You cannot make above viii or ix gallons of indifferent ale out of one bushel of mault, yet you may, with the assistance of hoppe, draw xviii or xx gallons of very good beere ; neither is the hoppe more profitable to enlarge the quantity of your drinke, than necessary to prolong the continuance thereof ; for if your ale may endure a fortnight, your beere, through the benefit of the hoppe, shall continue a moneth ; and what grace it yieldeth to the taste, all men may judge that have sense in their mouthes ; and if the controversie be betwixt beere and ale, which of them two shall we place in preheminence, it sufficeth for the glorie and commendation of the beere, that here in our own countreye ale giveth place unto it; and that most of our countrymen doe abhorre and abandon ale as lothsome drincke ; in other nations beere is of great estimacion ; and of strayngers enter- tayned as their most choyce and delicate drinke ; without hoppe it wanteth its chiefe grace and best verdur.” In the grand carnival, when Robert Dudley enter- CRITICAL REMARKS. 17 tained the queen at Kenilworth Castle in 1575, the ale there consumed was 365 hogsheads, the value of which at that day, according to Holingshed, was five gallons for a shilling; and in 1586, when the queen of Scots was confined within Tutbury Castle, the conspirator Babbington, of Dethick, contrived to convey letters to her though a chink in the wall, the messenger being a brewer who supplied the house with ale. At that time Derby, whence the brewer probably came, had acquired a celebrity for its provincial produce which its neigh- bour Burton retains. Brayley notices it as a favourite beverage in the metropolis; for Sir Lionel Rash, in Greene’s pleasant comedy of “Tu quoque,” says, “I have sent my daughter this morning as far as Pimlico for a draught of Derby ale, that it may fetch a colour into her cheeks:” a proof that this hilarous beverago was accounted medicinal. The following, from the Introduction to Shaw's large History of the County of Stafford, may conclude the present observations on ale and beer: “Diodorus of Sicily, (Lib. I. cap. xx.) tells us that Osiris first taught the Egyptians how to sow and cultivate corn, especially wheat and ba