British Winemaker and Domestic Brewer

British Winemaker and Domestic Brewer

e &, BRIG WINE-MAKER, > AND « . ° . ‘ “DOMESTIC BREWER; A COMPLETE, PRACTICAL, AND EASY TREATISE ON THE ART AND MANAGEMENT OF BRITISH WINES, AND LIQUEURS, AND DOMESTIC BREWING. ‘By W. H. ROBERTS. OLIVER & BOYD, EDINBURGH; * , “ay SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. LONDON. eMDCCCXXXv. 2S. 366. “¢ a” . Printed by James Walker, 6. James’s Court, Lawnmarket, Edinburgh. , «6 * PREFACE. Tue unambitious nature of the present publica- tion makes explanation and prefatory remarks almost unnecessary. In detailing the results of my actual experience in Wine-Making, I have reason to believe, that I shall perform a use- ful and acceptable service to the public, or at least to a considerable portion of it; and the opi- nion of several individualg qualified to judge has confirmed this belief. The directions I have given are plain and practical. They are the result of patient and careful observation, and have stood the test of experiment during a series of years. They have also been conducted upon scientific principles, and with the aid of an instrument too lit- tle known, the Saccharometer, the uses and value of which, in domestic wine-making, form a promi- nent part of this treatise. The approved quality of the wines which I have made, some of them now iv PREFACE. fourteen years old, was another inducement to lay my methods of procedure before the public. A yet stronger motive was the hope of calling the at- tention of society, at this particular time, to li- quors at once more delicate and harmless than the drinks in common use among the middle class in this country, and of thus lending my aid in promoting the diffusion of a better taste, by the introduction of cheap, healthful, and exhilarating vinous liquors, instead of ardent spirits, or their deleterious compounds. Should I have the gra- tification to find, that my little work has in any degree been promotive of so desirable an object, the trouble which I have bestowed upon it will be much overpaid by the consciousness of having contributed a small mite to the sum of the in- nocent comforts and pleasures of society, while aiming at its moral improvement. It may be proper to mention, that this little work was ready for the press a twelvemonth ago, as the author understands, that another work on Wine- Making has since appeared, in which the Saccharometer is described, though no directions are given for its application in practice. Enmsurau, Jan. 24. 1835. CONTENTS. PART I. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAKING OF BRITISH WINE, WITH THE AID OF THE SACCHAROMETER. Page. Introduction, . . re | Description and use of the Saccharometer, oe ew ee 8 Table of Specific Gravities of the juices of fruit, . . - 42 Champagne wine from unripe gooseberries, . . . » + 44 Racking do. French mode of procedure,. . . - - 50 Fining do. do. er rr) | Matching do. do. rr. | Bottling do. do. rr en Mantling do. do. rr er Y | Dr Macculloch’s observations on do, . . . . . - + 61 Continuation and ending of Author’s management of Cham- pagne, .. oe e + 66 Champagne wine, Dr Macculloch's receipt, oe we ew e Gooseberry wine from ripe berries, . . . . ». . + 78 Grape wine from ripe grapes, . . oe ss 81 Grape wine, the mode the Hon, C. Hamilton adopted, . 84 Grape wine from unripe grapes, Macculloch, . . . - 88 Grape wine do. Macquer, - e 6 « 96 Wine made from the leaves and cuttings of the grape vine, IO1 Raisin wine, sweet, . . 2. . - « 2 «© « © « © (103 Raisin wine, dry, . 2. . «© = «© © © © © «© « WN vil CONTENTS. Currantwine, red, . 2. . - 2 «© © © © eo Currant wine, black, . . . 2 « © « «© © @ Currant wine, do. in imitation of Constantia, . . . . Currant wine, white, . 2. . . 6 6 © © © we Currant wine, Rozier’s receipt, . . 2 . + + «© « Wine made from mixed fruit, . . - 2 » « « « Another receipt, . 2. 2 2 2 1 2 te eo ew ee Damson and Raisin wine, . . 2. . . + 2 2 + 6 Cherry wine, . . 2 2 2 1 «© © © © @ ww Strawberry wine, ee Mulberry wine, . . . » - re Blackberry or Brambleberry wine, . . - + 2 © « Apricot wine, . 2. . 2 + © © © © © e © Orange wine, . . 2 2 2 ee ee te ee Orange wine, another receipt | Quince wine... . . ee Wine made from apples, pears, and raisin, . . « « Ginger wine made with extract of malt, (ale wort,) . . Ginger wine, . . . . 6 . re re ry Malt wine in imitation of Madeira, ee er er) Malt wine in imitation of Malaga, . . . + - + « Parsnip wine. 2 2 1 6 6 6 6 ew ew ww Red Parsnipwine, . . . «© 2 + «© + © « @ @ Balm wine, . . - «© 6 «© «© © © © «© © © Cowslip wine, . 2. «© 2 «© «© © © e oe Birch wine, . 2 6 1 6 1 6 © ee ew tw Elder wine, . . a er) Frontiniac wine, imitation of, . . . . - see Method of preventing wine in the cask from degenerating, Argol or Tartar,. . . ee ee How to prepare Elder j juice, ee oe we we ew The method of giving a pink tint to Champagee, . . Fining wine, . . . 2 2 oo. . ee Sprucebeer, .0. 2. 6 2 + 6 6 ee ee ow Ginger beer, 2 1. 1 6 6 6 1 eo ew ew we CONTENTS. Vil PART II. THE ART OF MAKING LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS, CORDIALS, SHRUBS, AND COMPOUNDS, BY DISTILLATION, IN- FUSION AND DIGESTION. Page, LiquEURs, . «© «© «© © © © © © «© «© © «© « 189 DISTILLATION, . + + © © © © © « © «© « « 91 To distil rose water,. . . « « « oe oe « « 192 Kirschwasser,. . 2. + 6 + - + eo « « © 193 Spirit of percicot, . . . + + «© © «© © © © « 19% Spirit of cloves, 2. - - 2 2 2 © © 6 6 ew ew eli Barbadoes cream spirit,. . . 2. + © « «© »« « » 195 Cream of five fruits, . . 2 2 © © « © © » «© « ib Perfect love, . . «© 1 © © © © © © «© © © © 196 Liqueur of four flowers, . . «© 2 © «© 6 « «© © ib Syrup of gooseberries, . 2 . «© 1 © © © «© « «© ib Mode of making Home brandy,,. ... . . - « » 198 Mode of making Creme de Rosey . . . - « « « ib Mode of making Creme de Moka, . ..... . 199 Mode of making Kirschwasser, . . » ». « » . «. 200 Mode of making Cassi, . , «© « 2 «4s «© «© 2 © ib, Mode of making Nonpareil, . . . «. « + © « « id Mode of making Admirable, . . . . « © « « - 201 Mode of makittg Sublime de Variété, . . . . . ~ ib Usquebaugh, two gallons, . . . « © « «© © « « 202 Maraschinon, . . - - 6 6 © 6 ee we we Ct INFUSION, | FRatafias, 2. 2. 6 1 6 ew ew eh ew ew tw ww ww 206 Imperial Ratafia, to make two gallons, . . . - + » 207 Receipt for making Red ratafia, . . . . . « + « 208 Fine red ratafia, . 2. + 2 6 2 1 © © © © © 6 209 RRatafia of cherries, . 2 2. 2 2 «0. + © © «© «© © 210 Ratafia of four fruits, 7 0©« © © © © © ©» © © @ ib. Viil CONTENTS. Page. Ratafia of oranges, » . oe oe 6 © « QI Ratafia of gooseberries, . . . . ib. Ratafia of raspberries, . . - . 2 + « © «© © ib. Ratafia of roses, . oo. . eee - 212 Ratafia of noyau water, . ee ew - + ib. Ratafia of peaches, ee . oe © © 213 Badiane, . . . oe + oe + ib, Liqueur au bouquet, o. oe ee + 6 « 214 Rossolis, er er er er . ib. Apricot and peach liqueur, . . o. 215 Liqueur made with spirits, . . . oe ee © 216 Cream of the flower of orange, . eo 6 ee B17 To make capillaire, . ee 6 we ew we iD Clarified syrup, . eee ww eo ele 218 Eau douce, directions for making Dr Kitchiner’ 8, +» - ib. Milk punch,—Kitcbiner, oe vee ee oe 628) To make one gallon of Curagoa, « . « « «© «© « « 222 Nectar, . oa oe oe © we ib. Nectar, another way, oe we + « « 223 Noyau, to make two gallons of, « 6 2 6 ee ew ib Citron cordial, to make two gallons of, . . »« « + + 224 Peppermint cordial, to make two gallons of, . . » ib. Directions how to make up the above, . . . . - « 225 Aniseed cordial, to make two gallons of, . . . - ib. Caraway cordial, to make two gallons of, . + + « 226 Usquebaugh, to make two gallons of, . . e + 6 «ib, Cinnamon cordial, to make two gallons of, + 6 «© 227 Ginger cordial, . . . . . + oe « ib. Receipt for mading ten gallons of do. . oe 228 Brandy shrub, to make twa gallons of, . . . . « + 229 Rum shrub, to make two gallons of, . . ib, Cherry brandy, . . . 2 « e - . 230 To give British spirits the flavour of French brandy, + « 231 Green gages in brandy, . . . oe 6 6 «ib Peaches in brandy, . . coe see 6 232 ee Cherries in brandy, CONTENTS. 1X To make Spicy spirit, . . . . 2 . 2 « « «© « 238 How to prepare cochineal for colouring liqueurs, . . . 234 Coottne Drings, . . . rr ne | Currant, raspberry, and strawberry waters, Lemonade, . . re: Orgeat water, © 6 6 2 6 6 ee ee ww Ce Orangeade, . . 2 6 6 © © © © oe ew ew ew ee) i To precipitate the colour, &c. from molasses, . . . . 236 5 PART III. A SHORT AND SIMPLIFIED TREATISE ON DOMESTIC BREWING. Bagwing, . . + «© © © © © «© © © © © © 239 Waters, 2. - 2. 1. 1 ee ee we ee ew ee KL Mashing, .- . - 6 6 6 6 © © 0 ew ew ee 855 Sparging, - . 2 4 6 6 6 © oe ww ew oe ee 288 Boiling, . 2 6 «© « © © © © o © © wo e626) Fermentation, . . «© . © «© « «© © © «© « «© 264 Casking, . - «© 1 + © «© © © «© 6 6 © ee 267 Fining, . . eee ww ww we wwe 2269 Brewing from a quarter ofmalt,. 2. 2. 2. + 2 ee 271 Porter, . . . . « oe ee we ew ww wht 68280 The interior of a brewery, er a 2) The copper, . . . «© «© « © « © «© « © «© « 283 The mash tubortun, . .. . . > 2 oe 6 e 6285 The underback or receiver from the mash. tun, ~ .« + 287 The coolers, . . 6 s 6 «© © © e © @ ee ew ew) UD Fermenting tuns, . « - 6 6 « © «© «© ©» « « 288 x CONTENTS. Casks and cask stands, . The brewhouse, . . The copper, . . - The mash-tun, . « The underback, . . The coolers, . : . The tun room and cellar, eee ce @ ee e ee e ee 6 ee * © & © oe e © @ @ PART I. CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING BRITISH WINES, WITH THE AID OF THE SACCHAROMETER. INTRODUCTION. AttHouGH the works before the Public on this useful manufacture are numerous, there appears scarcely one of them capable of directing the Amateur Wine-Maker to obtain uniformly a cheap, wholesome, and well-fermented wine from the fruits of this country. On the contrary, the receipts in these works are, generally speaking, nothing more than theoretical fancies; and by fol- lowing any of them, should he meet with success, he will owe that success to chance alone. Having been for many years endeavouring, by experiments, to make good British wines, and ha- ving derived much valuable information from the theoretical works of Dr Macculloch and others who have written on the subject, I have been enabled to produce wines of such a quality as fully com- pensate me for the trouble taken. The Caledonian Horticultural Society having considered the manufacture of home-made wines A 2 INTRODUCTION TO a subject worthy of their attention, had been in the habit, for some time, of giving medals as premiums annually, to those who produced the best wines made from the fruits of this country. The importance they attached to the improvement of this manufacture was a powerful inducement for me to persevere in the cultivation of this art. Some years ago, I was encouraged, by several of my friends, to become a candidate for the medal. I did so, and was successful. This gave mea greater desire than before to persist in my pursuit. The following year I again sent five different wines for competition, when I was rewarded with an- other medal. ‘ I was requested by the Secretary to give the Society a detailed account of the process I adopt- ed in the manufacture of wines, particularly if I could give any information on fermentation, a part of the process which seemed little if at all under- stood or practised by the makers of home-made wine. What I wrote met with their approbation ; so much so, that, in the following words, they re- commended to future competitors to follow my method. « And the Committee cannot conclude, - without strongly recommending’ to future compe- titors to follow, as nearly as they can, the mode adopted by : who seems from the spe- cimens of five sorts of wine produced for compe- tition, to have established a method of preparing, THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 3 upon scientific principles, a perfect wine of most excellent quality.” My reader may well believe, that after this en- comium from so highly respectable and scientific a committee, my zeal was heightened to make far- ther experiments in this interesting manufacture, in order to endeavour to elucidate what might yet remain concealed in “ this hitherto conjectural art.” Steadily pursuing this object, 1 have made many valuable discoveries; and have been soli- cited to lay before the public the result of so many years’ experience and experiment. Iam aware, however, of the difficulty which meets me at the very commencement, namely, the existing preju- dice so commonly entertained against home-made wine in Scotland ; for in England, although it may be found at the tables of the rich as well as of the middling class, this prejudice still exists with the former only, but here it is so strong, that this wine is scarcely tolerated, and where it is, it is but presented to children. In palliation of this, it may however be said, that in this country (Scot- land) there is a different cause for the bad repu- tation home-made wine has obtained ; for nearly nine times out of ten, the wines are either a perfect syrup, punch,.or vinegar, and even at the very best are only ill-fermented compounds of spirit, juice, and sugar, which, when used even in mode- — rate quantities, instead of invigorating the system A 4 INTRODUCTION TO as they should do, prove detrimental to the exercise of the digestive functions. But this arises solely from the quality of the wine being bad, in conse- quence of the manner in which it is made, and not from the impossibility of manufacturing a better. It may be asked, why are home-made wines more used in the South than in the North? In England they are better manufactured, and consequently must be better wines. Fermentation there is a sub- ject to which a certain degree of attention is paid; a much greater quantity of wine is made at once, and: it is kept for a longer period before it is applied to use than in Scotland. But even in England fermentation is not sufficiently regarded, or, in more correct language, is too little understood; and from this it may easily be seen, that an evil of the first importance necessarily results, an inability to obtain a true and perfect wine ; and it is this evil which, I trust, I shall be enabled to remedy, by a full though simple explanation of the facts of which Thave been a witness through all the stages of its manufacture. Should any of my readers, by follow- ing my example, succeed as I have done, I doubt not but that, in a very few years, instead of find- ing at the tables of our friends the adulterated and deleterious mixtures called Port, Sherry, and Cape Madeira, we shall be enabled to enjoy a good and wholesome glass of one of our true British wines, and at the same time be enabled to boast, that THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. § we have at length raised them to that place which we have now discovered they are so worthy of oceupying. Before I enter more fully on the subject, perhaps it may be advisable to say a little about wines styled Foreign, and drunk as such, but in reality made in this country. It has been asserted upon good authority, that more than one-half of the wine called foreign is either made up in this country or adulterated. In a recent work by Cyrus Redding, he states as follows, in page 216: “ Five-eighths of the wine brought to England is so coarse, and is such a medley of ill-flavoured heterogeneous vine produce, bad Portuguese brandy, and other matters, that any ingenious person may increase one pipe to three, by the addition of unexciseable articles, without any fresh injury to the stomach of the consumer, or to the appearance of the wine hap- pening. This is not an unfaithful picture of facts which are dwelt upon in another chapter.” Now, what does he say of Port wine, page 334? ‘¢ Into Oporto, no less than 4000 pipes of Figueras wine are said to have been introduced, in one year, to mingle with the wines destined for England. It is impossible to calculate what the loss to the public in revenue must be by the adulterations of wine in this country. The basis of most of these is Cape wine, which pays a low duty, and is con- sequently most conveniently useful in this trans- 6 INTRODUCTION TO | mutation of wines for purposes of lucre. The truth is, that a vast quantity of fictitious Port is passed off in this country for that which is real; and the idea deserves credit, from the very considerable importations of wine, which can only be used for such purposes ; to which two or three and twenty hundred tuns of Cape, a quantity of Beni Carlos and of Figueras wines undoubtedly contribute, to say nothing of what is made with- out having in its constituent parts a single drop of grape juice at all. -In a most useful work, pro- fessing to treat of the art of adulteration, the fol- lowing mode of managing this branch of trade is well exposed*. It relates to the first class of manufactured wine, in contradistinction to the second, which has none of the component parts of wine at all in its composition. It is premised that all wine manufacturers keep large vats for the purpose of similar fabrications. Beni Carlos wine can be purchased, including duty, for L.88 per pipe, Figueras for L.45, Red Cape, L.82; of Mountain wine, to follow the author, “a small quantity may be added, if required, to soften and give an appearance of richness; Sal tartar, a portion to occasion the compound, when bottled, crust firm and soon, dissolved with a propor- * Wine and Spirit Adulterators unmasked, Robins and Co. 1 vol. 12mo, 1829, THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 7 tionate quantity of gum dragon, to impart a ful- ness of flavour and consistency of body, and to give the whole a face. In addition to these may be introduced brandy-cowe, (the washings of brandy casks,) which costs nothing, in the propor- tion of about three gallons to every hundred gal- lons of made-up wine, in making the second quan- tity of fictitious wine. Into this may be racked as follows : Imp. gal. Limp. gal. 2 Pipes of Beni Carlos, 230 at L.38 per 115 cost L.76 0 0 2 Pipes of Figueras, 230— 45 —115— 90 0 0 1} Pipes of Red Cape, 137—- 32— 91— 48 3 6 1} Pipes of stout good Port, = - 165— 7—115— 109 010 1 Pipe of commonPort, 11I5— 63 —115— 63 0 0 Mountain, 20— 60 — 105 — 11 8 7 Brandy-cowe, 20— O— O— 000 Colouring, 8— O— O— 031 Et ceteras: 2} Ibs. of salt of tartar, and 3lbs. gumdragon, O— O— O— 040 Extra allowance for loss by bottoms, Oo—- O— O— 800 8 Pipes Port, U5 } o20 L400 0 0 gal. per pipe, The value of the empty pipes and hogsheads is L.5, 5s., and not being deducted from the amount in this example, is supposed to pay all expenses of cartage, that part of the et ceteras which may not be sufficiently charged or paid for by the water 8 INTRODUCTION TO used to dissolve them, and which is sold as wine, and for any additional loss which may be sustain- ed by the bottoms. Thus, then, we have eight pipes of superior Port wine, made up according to the best and most approved plan, and which stands advertising dealers at L.50 per pipe of 115 im- perial gallons, every expense included, and rec- koned at the very outside. ‘The wine thus made up, if drawn off in bottles of the size of six bot- - tles to the gallon, old measure, and adding a charge of sixpence a dozen extra for corks, would cost only 16s, 9d. per dozen.” But this is not all. He goes on to state: “ So impudently and notoriously are these frauds practised, and so boldly are they avowed, that there are books published, called, Publicans’ Guides, and Licen- sed Victuallers’ Directors, in which the most infa- mous receipts imaginable are laid down to swindle their customers. One of these recommends Port wine to be made after the following manner: The cask sulphured, after which may be added, twelve gallons strong Port, six gallons rectified spirits, three gallons cogniac brandy, forty-two gal- lons of fine rough cyder, making sixty-three gal- lons, which cost about 18s. per dozen. In an- other receipt, forty-five gallons of cyder, six gal- lons of brandy, eight gallons of Port wine, two gallons of sloes, stewed in two gallons of water, and the liquor pressed off. If the colour is not THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 9 good, the tincture of red sanders or cudbear is directed to be added. This may be bottled in a few days, and a tea-spoonful of the powder of ca- techu being added to each bottle, a fine crusted appearance on the bottles will quickly follow. The ends of the corks being soaked in a strong decoction of Brazil wood and a little alum, will complete this interesting process, and give them the appearance of age. The wines of Madeira ate in like manner adulterated, or wholly manu- factured in England, which, from these devices, may justly claim the title of a universal wine - country, where every species is made, if it be not grown. The wines thus manufactured are not served up at the tables of the rich, but are prin- cipally consumed by those who only drink wine occasionally, on the presence of friends. Not that the better classes of purchasers escape being imposed upon, but they are cozened in a different manner, by giving West India Madeira an arti- ficial flavour, and passing it off for that which is © East India, and in ‘consequence much dearer. The basis of the adulteration of Madeira itself is Vidonia, mingled with a little Port, Mountain, and Cape, sugar-candy, bitter almonds, and the | colour made lighter, or deepened to the proper shade, as the occasion may require. Even Vido- nia itself-is adulterated with cyder, rum, and car- bonate of soda, to correct the acidity, and some- B 10 INTRODUCTION TO times a little Port or Mountain is added. Bucellas, with every other species of wine that it is worth while to imitate, is adulterated and manufactured in this country with cheaper substances. Even Cape wine itself has been imitated by liquids if possible inferior to the genuine article.” Regarding Sherry, he observes, page 322: “In England, Sherry of the brown kind, and of low price, when imported, is mingled with Cape wine, cheap brandy, the washings of brandy casks, sugar-candy, bitter almonds, and similar preparations, while the colour, if ‘too high for pale Sherry, is taken out by the addition of lamb’s blood, and then passed off for the best Sherry by one class of wine-sellers and adver- tisers. The softness of good Sherry is closely imitated. Gum benzoin is used to produce the counterfeit brown Sherry, which in the real wine is given by boiled must. The whole is tempered in a large vat, and sold out in bottles, fifteen to the dozen, on which a profit of 12s. per dozen ‘is made.” Having now passed over the common wines, let us see what he has to say regarding Claret, Champagne, &c. Of the former, he adds, page 829: ‘* Bourdeaux wine in England and in Bourdeaux scarcely resemble each other. The merchants are obliged to work the wincs before — they are shipped, or, in other words, to mingle THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 11 them with stronger wines, such as Hermitage or Cahors, which is destructive almost wholly of the bouquet, colour, and aroma of the original wine. So much are the merchants sensible of this, that they are obliged to give perfume to the wine thus mixed, by artificial means, such as orris root and similar things. Raspberry brandy is sometimes used in minute quantities for the same purpose.” This might pass almost unnoticed, if all clarets were so mercifully dealt with. Again, page 330. « But there are large quantities of what is miscall- ed claret manufactured in this country, for the making of which, as well as improved claret of prime character, many receipts are extant. A very inferior French wine, sold to the adulterators at a few sous a bottle, is frequently mingled with rough cyder, and coloured to resemble claret, with cochineal, turnsole, and similar matters. This is pronounced of fine quality, and sold as such in this country. Certain drugs are added as they appear to be wanted, and the medley, to which a large profit is attached from the imposition, is fre- quently drunk without hesitation, and without any discovery of the cheat.” Champagne is the last wine I shall quote from this author. He observes regarding this wine, (page 331,) “ The adulterating of it is most ob- vious to such only as are well acquainted with it in the genuine state, and this wine is adulterated in 12 INTRODUCTION TO England with more boldness than any other coun- try. The most wretched wine that can be bought in the country, ata franc a bottle, ig known to have been imported, to throw out the wine, and fill the bottles with Champagne from the gooseberry, on which a profit of 40s. or 50s. a-dozen may be made. There is a very weak Champagne made in the country, which was, until very lately, consum- ed wholly on the spot, incapable of resisting de- composition for more than one year. This cer- tain shrewd wine-makers from England have die~ -covered, and imported as the best Champagne. It is without the flavour or bouquet of the genuine wine, it froths. or effervesces freely, but the co- lour is paler than that of better quality. This wine is not worth more than a few sous a battle in the country. In England, it is purchased and drunk for the genuine article by those who are only now and then introduced to wine of that name. Gooseberry wine itself is often passed off for Champagne upon the inexperienced, and the full price of the genuine article is exacted. The very bottles are bought up for the purpose of fill- ing with gooseberry wine, and then corked to re- semble Champagne.” In summation of the whole, he concludes, (page 327,) ‘‘ Indeed, so coarse are three-fourths of the wines commonly drunk in England, from the foregoing cause principally, operating as a disguise for the vilest imitations, - THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 18 that they might easily be made without the juice. of the grape forming any part of this composition.” I could bring forward the assertion of many more authors to prove that Mr Cyrus Redding stands not alone in his statements, nor that he has in the least degree exaggerated his description of the shameful impositions by which the respectable part of the community is daily and hourly de- ceived, purchasing and drinking for genuine wine such adulterated and unwholesome mixtures, where, in many cases, even poisonous ingredients are un- hesitatingly made use of. To establish the ac- curacy of the foregoing statement regarding these vile, dishonest and illegal practices, I shall con- fine myself to give a short extract from Accum’s work on the adulteration of food. ‘All persons moderately conversant with the subject are aware, that a portion of alum is added: to young and mea- gre red wines, for the purpose of brightening the colour ; that Brazil wood, or the husks of elder- berries and bilberries, are employed to impart a deep, rich, purple tint to red Port of a pale, faint . colour, and gypsum is used to render cloudy white wines transparent; that an additional as- tringency is imparted to immature red wines, by means of oak-wood, saw-dust, and the husks of filberts ; and that a mixture of spoiled foreign and home-made wines is eonverted into the wretched cempound frequently sold in this town by the 14 INTRODUCTION TO name of * Genuine Old Port ;’ a nutty flavour is produced by bitter almonds ; fictitious Port wine is flavoured with a tincture drawn from the seed of raisins; and the ingredients employed to form the bouquet of high-flavoured wines are sweet brier, orris-root, clary, cherry-laurel water, and elder flowers. The flavouring ingredients used by manufacturers may all be purchased by those dealers in wine who are initiated in the mysteries of the trade. And even a manuscript receipt book for preparing them, and the whole mystery of managing all sorts of wines, may be obtained on payment of a considerable fee.” And then again: ‘«‘ The particular and separate department in this fictitious wine trade, called crusting, consists in lining the interior surface of empty wine bottles, in part, with a red crust of super-tartrate of pot- ash, by suffering a saturated hot solution of this salt, coloured with a decoction of Brazil wood, to crystallize within them.” This artificial crustation is not confined to the bottle; for, he says, (pages 103 and 104,) ‘ A correspondent operation is per- formed on the wooden cask, the whole interior of which is stained artificially with a crystalline crust of super-tartrate of potash, artfully mixed in a manner precisely similar to that before stated. Thus the wine merchant, after bottling off a pipe of wine, is enabled to impose on the understanding of his customers, by taking to pieces the cask, and THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 15 ft exhibiting the beautiful dark-coloured and fine crystalline crust as an indubitable proof of the age of the wine; a practice by no means uncommon, to flatter the vanity of those who pride themselves in their acute discrimination of wines.” Various other deceptions of a more culpable nature are practised by fraudulent dealers, the most dangerous of which is the admixture of lead employed in the adulteration. Every intelligent and disinterested reader must concur with Mr Accum in his just observation: ‘“* The merchant or dealer who practises this dangerous sophistica- tion adds the crime of murder to that of fraud, and deliberately scatters the seeds of disease and death among those customers who contribute to his emolument.” These sad pictures must certainly convince a disinterested reader, that there is at any rate a very great risk of procuring a genuine article in foreign wine ; for if it is correct, that five-eighths of the wine brought into this country are spurious, and that every one of these pipes may be convert- ed into three, it is next to impossible to obtain it. Notwithstanding all that has been written on the subject of adulteration of wine, I do really believe that genuine wine may still be got by going to a respectable merchant, and giving him his price, instead of purchasing from those who advertise Good Old: Port at 20s. to 24s. per dozen. 16 INTRODUCTION TO Now, no one will venture to assert, that a med- ley so compounded as we have before noticed, can be so palatable, wholesome, or economical as a well-manufactured, well-fermented British wine, made under our own superintendence. As this is truly the case, it ought to be a matter of great consideration not to run the risk of being poisoned by the one, when we have it in our power to ob- tain the other genuine and generous, upon such easy terms and at so trifling an expense. But it has been stated by some, that it is im- possible to make a drinkable wine from any fruits grown in this country, in consequence of the great proportion of malic acid, and the deficiency of saccharine matter. This is an assertion almost too absurd to require contradiction; but in order to shew how little truth there is in the assertion, or rather how utterly devoid of truth it is, and how much ignorance there is displayed in making it, I shall take the liberty of relating the following anecdote, vouching for its authenticity. Eight or nine years ago, a very respectable friend of mine, who lived much in the world, and who was in the habit of entertaining his friends with a variety of continental wines, sent me two pint bottles, which he begged I would fill with some very old black currant wine, made in a particular way; a wine of which he was very fond, and always enjoyed much while visiting me. Gratified with this op- THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER, 17 portunity of pleasing my friend, I complied with his request, bottled the wine, sealed it, and sent it. Some weeks after a very large party dined with him. It is not my intention here to name the individuals of that party ; suffice it to say, among others, there were two present whose judgment in wines was reckoned unexeeptionable. After ha- ving enjoyed Hock and Champagne, and when! the parmesan cheese was brought, he requested his servant to bring a small bottle which was on the sideboard. The servant brought it, with a napkia rolled round it. The liqueur glasses were all ready on the salver-te receive the contents. The mouths of the guests being in right trim to enjoy it after the cheese, it was drawn; the glasses were filled and handed round ; one smacked his lips, another pronounced it delicious, another most delicious, and so on. None however dared to give it a name. All eyes were now fixed upon the judges, first on one, then on the other. One of them confidently asserted it was the very best Constantia he had ever tasted. The second pint was uncorked, and equally enjoyed as the first. This story 1 had from the gentleman himself, as well as from one of the party, who mentioned it merely to me as a story, characteristic of my friend’s style in doing any thing, and who was not aware of its being home-made wine until I informed him of it. Sure- ly after this no one will now be found to start the c 18 INTRODUCTION TO question, Is it possible, or is it not possible to make a good wine in this country? Such men as those who dined with my friend might be deceived as to whether the wine was foreign or home-made; but we can scarcely imagine they would be mis- taken as to whether it was good or bad. - Nor do I find this a singular case. Other judges have been deceived with wines made in this cqun- try, when drunk at the tables of their friends, as those were who dined at my friend’s table. Ina work published by Sir Edward Barry, 1775, he relates the manner in which the Honourable Charles Hamilton rears his grapes and manufac- tures his wines ; after which description he adds: ‘© It would be endless to mention how many good judges of wine were deceived by my wine, and thought it superior to the best Champagne they ever drank! Even the Duke de Mire .Pois pre- ferred it to any other wine ; but such is the pre- judice of most people to any thing of English growth, I generally found it prudent not to declare where it grew, till after they had passed their verdict upon it. ss The surest proof which I ean give of its excel- lence is, that I sold it to wine merchants for fifty ‘guineas a hogshead; and one wine. merchant, to whom I sold five hundred pounds worth at one time, assured me, that he sold some of the best of it at 73, 6d. to 10s. 6d. per bottle.” THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 19 ~ I have now in my cellar thirteen different kinds of wine, all my own making, being about twelve years old. This may serve to prove their dura- bility. Instead of falling off in flavour since they were made, they have greatly improved, not only in my opinion, but in the opinion of others, who are considered to be competent judges; and I have. no hesitation in saying, they will go on improving in quality for many years to come. Indeed, they seem less liable to destruc- tion from age than foreign wines of the same strength. I have found the advantage great in making a large quantity of wine at a time, instead of a small one. -The larger the quantity of fer- menting juice, the nearer to perfection will be the wine. It is impossible to decompose the whole of the sugar when made in a small quantity, but it will be practicable when made in a large one, and the wine will be in every respect greatly su- perior; for the nearer we approach the attenua- tion of the sugar held in solution, the nearer we approach to the making of a perfect wine. But of this, more hereafter. Another inducement for making wine in a large quantity is the economy of it. Providing the fruit season is favourable, and the sugar reasonable, it may be a saving of 25 per cent. in the manufacture, as fruits in a dry season will yield more saccharine matter by one- fourth than in a wet one. By taking advantage c2 20 INTRODUCTION TO of the favourable season, should the following year prove unfavourable, we are provided with a sup- ply, and the disappointment will be comparatively small. Even should we have been so improvident formerly, as to have remaining only the manufae- ture of one year, still we can afford to delay am operation for another season. The nature and quality ef our fruits calculated: to make wine have been ably demonstrated, and rules laid down on the complieated process of fer- mentation, by Dr Macculloch in his admirable work. Little remains therefore for me to say.. _ The trath of his assertion must be obvious to those: who have studied his work attentively, and who are anxious to exeel in this art. To such of my readers, however, as have not perused his treatise, I would offer a few remarks, The reason why our fruits are not so well adapted for wine as the grape, is, that they are pessessed of a redundancy of malic acid, andare defietent m saccharine matter. Malic acid is an ingredient, which, wherever it abounds, is injarious to the making of wine. The grape, as if alone intended by Providence for wine, on the other hand possesses all the re- quisites, and a very small portion of this acid. Could we destroy it either before or after fermen- tation, our wines would be very little inferior to those made in France and other wine countries, until then. It does not appear that any THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 21 one has yet been able te neutralize this acid, al- though various experiments have been tried. But, eonsidering the wonderful and highly valuable dis- eoveries in modern chemistry, and the increasing knowledge in every branch of science, we despair not of this acquisition being made. Perhaps, from the unqualified prejudiee entertained against our domestic wines, the attention of scientific men. has not been so much directed to the considera- tion of this circumstance as its importance de- serves. I have been surprised that neither government nor any society has encouraged the manufacture of wine, the Caledonian Horticultaral Society alone excepted; and even it has grown cold on the subject. But more especially does it surprise me, that the Highland Soeiety of Scotland has entirely overlooked this matter; a society that has for its express object the encouragement of manufactures and agriculture, and which awards prizes annually to those who excel in bringing forward the best specimens of art or of produce. In a national point of view, the complete want of encouragement is greatly to be lamented. I may venture to affirm, were the Highland Society to extend its premiums (with a gold medal) to home-made wines, the mode of neutralizing malic acid would soon be discovered, and our domestic wines would acquire a different name, a different. Q2 INTRODUCTION TO quality, and would come into general use, and the compound called foreign wine would gradu- ally disappear. In the year 1825, I wrote to my friend, the late Gilbert Innes, Esq. of Stow, at that time Treasurer of the Highland Society, on the subject of domestic wines and Scotch por- ter, and was sorry to receive the following re- ply: “ Edinburgh, 29th July 1825. Dear Srr, There will not be any meeting of the Highland Society for some time to come. When there is, your letter shall be laid before the Directors; but I do not imagine they can offer premiums either for Scottish brewed porter, ale, spirits or wine. These, from the consumpt of agricultural produce, are connected in some measure with the objects of the Society, but our funds are not sufficient for other premiums than those already advertised. I am obliged to you for . * . *. * ad * * I am, with much esteem and respect, my Dear Sir, your most obedient servant, (Signed) * GitBert INNEs.” I do not wish to endeavour to make my readers sur ‘y of our fruits (grapes excepted) ? produce such perfect wines as THE BRITISH WINE-MAKER. 23 those grown in a warmer climate. Even from grapes, although such wine may be perfect, it will be without that aroma which characterises some of the French wines. And let it be clearly understood, that this treatise is not intended to lay down rules for the manufacturing wines equal to those of the foreign grape, but to make a perfect, wholesome, and delicious