Historical Document · 1836

The Art of Brewing and Fermenting in the Summer -- and the Making of Malt

Author: Levesque
Year: 1836
Type: Historical Document

brewing

THE ART OF BREWING AND FERMENTING, AN THE SUMMER, AND ALL OTHER SEASONS, TO THE GREATEST ADVANTAGE, AND THE Making of Malt, ESSAYS, AND DECIMAL TABLES, / ACCURATELY CALCULATED, THE RESULT OF UPWARDS OF FORTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE; ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF THE AUTHOR'S NEWLY - INVENTED THERMOMETER, By the Application of which extreme Precision and iderable Saving will be effected: AND A COPPER-PLATE ENGRAVING oF AN Economical Plan FOR THE ERECTION OF A BREWHOUSE, INCLUDING HIS Newly-invented Copper with moveable Pan: LIEEWISE A COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF THE MALT LIQUOR BREWED IN LONDON In the Years 1759 and 1835, WITH, THE NAMES OF THE BREWERS. > BY JOHN LEVESQUE, FORMERLY OF THE ANCHOR BREWHOUSE, OLD STREET, ST. LUKE'S. LONDON, Printed by PRART & Co, 143, St. John’s Street Road, and PUBLISHED BY THOMAS HURST, 65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH YARD; And Sold by Grant and Son, Edinburgh; Cary and Co. Dublin; and all Booksellers 1836 ° ~~ ee CN Sue Y7OZ.E 26 HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY FROM TUS HEIRS OF GEORGE C. DEMPSEY ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL, _—_—_—— . The Neirs of - George C. Dempsey PREFACE. —39h— The author of this work is fully sensible that he requires the indulgence of the critic, as far as regards the diction of his Essays; but his aim is not to propagate theories founded on delusive and uncertain Jughts of imagination, but to convey, in the most comprehensive language, though necessarily encumbered with technical terms, such information as close observation, during a period of more than forty years’ study and practice in brewertes of the first respectability, has enabled ‘him to offer, without detracting from the exertions of others, who have unfortunately failed in making those useful and essential discoveries in the art, which he himself has thus far brought to perfection, and which, he trusts, every impartial and qualified reader wili admit. The rule of proportion is extensively delineated in every department, in a manner never before attempted. The author, aware that when works are carried to extreme lengths, the remunerating charge for which must, to the majority of readers, nearly amount to a prohibition, has, by avoiding ail extraneous matter from the science of producing a brilliant, generous, and exhilarating beverage, purely from malt and hops, offered, at as mo- derate a price (a limited number only being printed) as he possibly could; and presents to his readers the facility of acquiring such knowledge, as will enable them to iv become safe Purchasers, successful Growers of the raw materials, skilful Malisters, and scientific Brewers. Those ‘ persons who may have occasion to erect brewhouses, or to re-construct them, are referred to the Copper-plate Engraving facing the title-page, in which is represented, especially, his newly-invented Copper with moveable Pan, simple in principle, though important for use—the situ- ation in which it ts placed effecting a most important saving of time; the whole sufficiently demonstrating that, by adopting the construction of this truly economical Plan, the most beneficial and satisfactory results will unquestionably be accomplished, . No Brewer can‘ reasonably expect favourable results Jrom his practice, without an intimate knowledge of the heats requisite for the different stages of the process ; and, as ultimate success depends on the utmost accuracy tn that important department, the author has invented a Thermometer (referred to in the work) on such unerring principles in the application, as to insure precision and prevent the possibility of error,—that great desideratum in the Art of Brewing. The Author concludes, that the more his Tables and newly-invented Thermometer is studied, the more they will be referred to and adopted, as the standard of calculation, §c. of the materials for brewing. JOHN LEVESQUE, Brewer, Horsham, Sussea, June, 22, 1836 ee ee _—_ poo ay CONTENTS. ; —_ Of-— PAGE Prerace : . . . iti ESSAY I. On the Brewhouse and Utensils . . : 9 ESSAY II. On Barley—Its Qualities—The best Kinds—Svil and Situation—Time of Sowing— Harvesting—Choice for Malting 14 ESSAY III. On the Construction of the Malt-house 18 ESSAY IV. On Making of Malt . . . 20 ESSAY V. On Hops—their Nature, Quality, Cultivation, and Growth . . . . ‘ 27 ESSAY VI. On Grinding the Malt . . . ’ 34 ESSAY VII. On the Necessity of Cleanliness in the Brewhouse and Utensils . . . . . . 35 ESSAY VIII. On the various Modes of Brewing . ‘ 37 ESSAY IX. On General Rules for Mashing . . 39 ESSAY X. On the various Modes of Builiog . — SCS rt (‘i ta. ? ae. vi ESSAY XI. race On the Process of Cooling. . F . 51 ESSAY XII. On the Application of Yeast . ° . ° 52 ESSAY XIII, On the Principles of Fermentation . : F 33 Explanation of the Original Decimal and other Tables, §:. TABLE I. Hops, 4f’ Quarter, for Malts of every strength » 65to 76 TABLE It. The Quantity of Hops required, ¢ Barrel, of any Strength, from 1 to 45 Ibs. 4 Barrel, and Hops, from } of a lb. per Barrel, progressing "x Quar- ters of a Pound . ‘ . » 77to 80 TABLE III. The Value of a Pound Saccharine of any Malt weighing between 70 and 105 Ibs. Gravity, 4 Quarter, and at any Price between 50 and 70 Ibs.4f Quarter é . ‘ - S8ltess TABLE IV. The Price of Hops, qf lb. and # Cwt. s P 84 TABLE V. Gravity—-Pitching Heat—-Advance of Heat—- Cleansing Point—-Gravily at Do.—-Gravity Reduced—Waste qf 10 Barrels, and Hours for Fermenting . 5 . . - 85to 86 TABLE VI. Quantity of Yeast required in Pounds and parts ofa Pound per Barrel, of Worts of any Strength 87 to 92 a re vii TABLE VII. PAGE The Four Classes of Mashing Heats—The Tempe- rature of the Air at Mashing from 6 to 12 Firkins, per Quarter—The Time of Standing of the Mash—and the Heat of the Tap for each Class . . . . . - 93 to 94 TABLE VIII. Patent Malt required for mixing with Pale Malt, instead of Amber and Brown with Pales, ac- cording to the Old Porter Grist 7 - 95 TABLE IX. Worts imbibed by the Hops F : se. BS TABLE X. Table of Lengths required to be drawn from Malt, and Liquor required to obtain that Length, including all Waste, the Return excepted . 96 0 Exampzes for the Brrwine Boor . : 3 ‘OF APPENDIX. The Method of taking Heats for Mashing. : 115 To reduce Decimal Parts, with Examples. ; 116 On the various Shades of Malt : ; 117 A List of the Brewers in London, and the Quantity brewed by each in One Year, between 1759 and 1760 contrasted with the Year 1835 - 118 to 121 Yearly Account of the Hop Duty (Old Duty) from the Year 1745 to 1835 . . . ‘ 122 Hop Duty, 1835 . . : ; 123 Hop Duty, Growths of 1834 and 1835 : : 124 Contract Prices of Hops for Greenwich Hospital, from 1727 to 1818, . : . ‘ ib. ApworRisms . . . . ; . 125 to 127 THE ART OF BREWING, MALTING, FERMENTING, §c. §c. ESSAY I. On the Brewhouse and Utensils As this work is intended to embrace every object connected with the Brewery, it would seem strange indeed not to begin from the foundation, or the place _ of brewing, or brewhouse, which must have suitable construction and convenience. CELLARAGE is, therefore, the first consideration, which should be under-ground, with arches; and, if expence is not an object, make them spacious, and carry the piers up six feet before the spring of the arch; the outer, or main walls of the brewery, are required to be substantial and secure, and the inner lofty, for temperature and convenience; and good drainage must not be omitted. Liavor.—Provide a cast-iron liquor-back, after the rate of ten barrels per quarter; if for a 50 quarter brewery, it should be one of 500 barrels, which will supply the place of roofing; and, let the liquor come from what source it may, it will certainly be much improved by being exposed to the sun and air, there- fore, let them be supplied whenever opportunity offers: B x 8 THE ART OF BREWING, the liquor may be still further improved by the judicious application or disposition of,a quantity of lime-stone, chalk, marle, shells, or flint, all of which possess bene- ficial qualities for brewing. Tue Var Room should be lofty and well ceiled; and if butts, or only barrels, are used in the trade, there ought to be seven feet under the girders, for head room; and the walls should be carried up three or four feet higher than the vats, before the roof is put on. Mavr and Hop Rooms and Bris ought to be in a dry situation, firmly ceiled and floored, and the walls battened and boarded, if the least damp, but not without; therefore, as boarding will harbour and breed the weevil, malt bins, &c. should be frequently washed with hot lime-wash, for which take the opportunity in dry weather. The brewhouse also should not be omitted, when — convenient opportunity offers, lime being a great sweetener, or anti-putrescent. Brewine UTEnsiLs are next in rotation, beginning with the copper. Some brewers are very particular in regard to shape and make. Whether a dome copper with a pan, or an open copper, it is, in the first place, to be made with a round lag, (by no means with a sharp lag, which is apt to crack in the manufacture,) of the best and toughest copper, and the breadth ought to be twice the depth; the fire place must, of course, be in proportion: the heating and boiling will be quicker, and a considerable saving effected in fuel. Masu Tun, to wet 50 quarters, will require in copper room, 150 barrels, or 3 barrels, per quarter; and the second copper, or boiling-off copper, ought to be two-thirds the content of the great, or liquor. copper, and of the same flat shape and lag. TimpeR.—All timber employed in the making of brewing utensils requires to be of the very best quality, without sap, and as free from knots as possible. MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 9 English or Hamburgh oak, and Dantzic deal, ought to be seasoned twelve months at least previous to manufacture; subsequently undergo a thorough sea- soning of salt, quick lime, and boiling liquor; and, finally, of malt dust, spent hops, and boiling liquor, that it may imbibe as little of the taste of the new - timber as possible. Dantzic deal is particularly recommended, as it is the hardest, firmest, and most durable; and not so apt as softer timber to imbibe the oxygen, or atmospheric air, which has a bad tendency, as it causes the creaming of the worts in the coolers. Dantzic timber may be used for any utensil, but oak cannot, as in the mash-tun bottom the hot liquor would in time warp it out; therefore, all the utensils will be described, with the timber or material most proper for the purpose. Beginning with the Masu Tun, which ought to be confined to the size first required. Aim at mashing the same quantity, and mash the tun full, or nearly so, as it is unwise to plan too large in utensils, or vats, for an increase of business; he must be a wary brewer indeed if he does not defeat his purpose, by mashing, working, or fermenting quantities disproportioned to the size of the utensils, as he will be deceived in the heats, &c. he expected to find at a given period. We will now proceed to the materials of the mash tun, and the shape, which ought to be, as 5 to 15, or 4 to 12, or 3 to 6, and as nearly straight as the draught of the hoops will admit; the staves, English or Ham- burgh oak, two inches thick, a Dantzic deal bottom two inches thick also, with a cast-iron false bottom, and cover, of half inch deal, painted on both sides, to prevent casting; and four or five stop cocks, of two inch bore, perpendicularly over the under-back. UnpeEr-BACK, of two inch oak, Dantzic deal bottom, and placed out of the way of any draught of air, such 10 THE ART OF BREWING, being injyrious to worts in that stage. Light is here wanted, to see the character of the worts. Pumps, or engines of the best description, of three-throws, for expedition. Hop-sack.—The shape of this utensil to be square; and, if convenient, should be made broad rather than deep; all of Dantzic deal, with cast-iron bottom. Coo.gers.—All of Dantzic deal, two inch sides, six inches deep, and the floor, inch and quarter, or inch and half, with plain joints, secured to the joists by Dantzic deal pins; all rough places carefully smoothed, to prevent the accumulation of dirt, and laid to a gentle drip or current. _ RerriaBRAToR.—If one is employed, half the quan- tity of coolering will be sufficient: and, in these days of invention and improvement, the refrigerator is of indispensible importance, inasmuch as worts require a low, in preference to a high fermentation; and, where competition prevails, they must be adopted. The expence will be no more in the end than if laid out in common coolering; and a certain gain, by producing superior malt liquor. Gye Tuns, should be square, and of English oak, three inches thick, and close yeast-boarded; or may be round, and air-tight, with a safety-valve, which must be regulated by a weight, to prevent accident by bursting: this principle seems agreeable to the nature of fermentation, inasmuch as it is calculated to acce- lerate the process and to retain the carbonic acid, a portion of which, as well as the heat, would in all probability otherwise escape, when fermentation is carried on in open tuns, be the yeast-boarding made ever so perfect. The author, therefore, recommends close tuns with the safety-valve, similar to the plan of Gray and Dacre, West Ham: to which he would further recommend, that the construction of the tuns be made sufficiently . MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. ll deep, to admit of the worts laying in a cube, or in equal breadth and depth, or nearly so, which would be more favourable to low pitching. Curansine Casks, of six barrels each, are very commodious, and proper to be adopted; in some instances, in preference to rolling upon stillions, as in the system of vatting and racking; the safety-valve may also be used for the discharge of the yeast. Srinvions are to be made of three inch Dantzic deal, a whole plank in depth, bottom one inch and half, and about two inches wider at top than at bottom, which _ought to be for barrels 18 inches wide, 21 inches for hogsheads, 24 inches for puncheons, and so on in pro- portion for larger or smaller casks: the widths here recommended are favourable to filling up with clean beer, and to contain the yeast; a side plug-hole is neces- sary to draw off the beer, bored with a taper bit; the hole inside to be within about three quarters of an inch of the sole edge or bottom, to keep back the yeast; another hole of 3 inches in the bottom, to get- the yeast out; and the stillion laid to a current of one inch to ten feet. Serriine-Back.—A settling back is required of shallow depth, six inches, to settle any thick beer of the stillions, previous to filling up. Varts require to be made of various sizes, according to circumstances: for instance, to contain one wort of strong ale, or double stout; others, to contain one brewing of a different, or lower quality, of two or three worts; others, to contain two or three brewings, wherein it is proper to blend a gyle containing a return with another gyle that has no return wort in it; and the return worts will be best disposed of in this manner, provided there is no other method. Vats should not exceed in content more than two or three brewings, because they ought to be quickly filled and emptied; an ullage is a great evil, and should be studiously avoided, Vats are made from one inch and —a———_———_—— Oo 12 . THE ART OF BREWING, half to two inches thick, of clean English oak; top and bottom of the same material. Stop them close as soon as emptied; the same may be filled several times to advantage upon the bottoms, and particularly porter or stout. WVats are most liable to get foul underneath the head, and cannot be well cleansed without taking out the bottoms, and scraping. Washing and scouring all over is not always required; but when it is done, leave the cocks open, that the air may thoroughly dry them, to receive the beer in the regular course of . operation. — Flat beer put into a damp vat or cask will be difficult to recover, with all the care of stopping, as it is liable to mother and sour, without the aid of a stimulant. Be careful to pass a lighted candle from the top io the bottom of a vat previous to the men entering to clean it: this precaution may prevent the loss of life. When a vat is ordered for cleaning, take off the hatch and set the cocks open, twenty-four hours before, for the evaporation of the fixed air. Scaupine, Trimmina, &c. in large houses.—This is a separate establishment, where all the empty casks brought in are unloaded, carefully drained, and ex- amined; and, if damaged, then stopped, bung-tap and spile, before scalding; after which another examination takes place. To employ pen upon this subject appears very simple; but, considering this work will most likely fall into the hands of many who are young and inexperienced, it is of the utmost importance to know when the business of scalding, &c. is properly performed, or much mischief may be done. It is of the utmost importance to fill casks sweet and dry. If there be no cooperage, there must be a back pro- vided for hot liquor, near to the brewing-copper, for the purpose of scalding: run the liquor into this back, boiling hot, and use it without delay. The liquor may MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 13 lay im the casks about fifteen or twenty minutes, well handled, turned out, rinced again, and then left to drain, without the corks; and, when thoroughly dry, to be housed. If the casks are not immediately wanted, they keep better unwashed, for a time, than when scalded. Whenever vats and casks are perfectly dry, they are of course ready for filling; but it often happens that some remain unfilled for several days, which, in damp wea- ther, are rendered unfit for use: when this is the case, they must be scalded again; for, let beer be ever so well brewed and managed, up to the operation of rack- ing, it may be easily injured, or totally spoiled, by casks being thus overlooked, or neglected. The flatness of the wood will always absorb more or less of the life of the beer; and, that it may be in the best order, aim at having your casks bone dry, although it is not always possible; at all events, be on the opposite side of neglect. ‘ It is better to rack into a cask fresh emptied, than one wet, damp, or flat. 34 THE ART OF BREWING, ESSAY II. On Barley.—\st, Its Qualities —2nd. The Best Kinds. 3d. The Soil and Situation.—Ath. Time of Sowing. 5th. Harvesting.—6th. The Choice for Malting. Ist.—As to the qualities, which are many, and good for food and medicine; as for food, it is too well known to be repeated here; its medicinal qualities may not be quite so well known, therefore an account of them may not be unacceptable to the more curious; nor is it conceived that it will lessen the consumption of malt- liquor, properly brewed. The medicinal qualities are, according to a celebrated physician, cooling and drying in the first degree; they are gently repercussive, abstersive, diuretic, and ano- dyne, appropriated to the lungs and reins, and galac- togenetic. All barleys have the same qualities. Qnd.—The barley most proper and profitable for malting is the rath, or early ripe, which ripens two or ‘three weeks before other kinds, and is that which growers ought to select, not only for its being so early ripe, but also on account of its making malt superior to any other, by reason of the thinness of its skin, being more plump and heavier, and for the sweetness of its nature. The Chevalier barley is also in high repute, and is, unquestionably, a superior grain, both in weight and quality. . 3rd.—The soil and situation; the best soil is the light sandy, or hazel-mould; good also upon a chalky bot- tom, and if in an open country, so much the better; nothing can be better for the sowing of barley, than land having previously borne turnips, and fed off. 4th.—The spring of the year is the time for sowing. 5th.—Harvesting, which requires the farmer's atten- tion and judgment, first, in cutting, when the barley is MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 15 fully ripe, having then attained all its natural qualities; the night-dews are also very beneficial in mellowing, and causing it to come in much sooner for malting, than if it were carried without. Barleys that have not had the advantage of the night-dews, will not work evenly, or make such tender malt, before January. A few light showers of rain will have nearly the same effect, but is apt to discolour the grain; yet it is not the worse for malting, if the germ is not injured or sprung, and pro- vided it be carried in a dry state. 6th.—The selection of barley, or any other grain, for malting, after being got together in the stack, un- dergoes more or less fermentation: and, if stacked too damp, it will generate so much heat as will destroy the germ; hence the powers of vegetation, which will cause it to rot on the floor, or in the earth, if there sown, ; And further, respecting malting barley, the most choice should ever be selected, in point of weight and quality, not only as regards the purpose of brewing pleasant and good beer, but also the duty of the Excise, and other incidental expences; because, in the first instance, the expence is the same for the bad as it is for the good; and, as the worst article generally bears the least profit, so the expence is, in reality, greater, ‘independent of the satisfaction of making the best malt. Upon calculation, the difference in the payment of Excise duty, upon the best and worst barley, amounts to 10d. 32 cents and a fraction, per quarter, or eighty-six shillings per cent. - Admitting that malt be made from wheat, weighing 67lbs. per bushel, the difference will be 22d. 15 cents, per quarter, or £9 4s. 7d. per cent.: however, it is not to be presumed that the maltster is ever likely to get all of the worst, when seeking after the best barley; but, seeing the difference, it may induce the maltster to give it his serious attention. ‘ c 16 THE ART OF BREWING, The maltster will also find his interest in screening his barley close, instead of paying the duty on the screen- ings: the handsomest sample will always command the best price. Barley, when in high cendition, has but little smell, which is sweet and pleasant. Barley, after being thrashed out, and laying damp or exposed, will soon lose its freshness, smell strong and disagreeable, which must of course depreciate its value. Large quantities of barley come coastwise to the London market; great care is required, and no doubt is taken, to ship it in the best order; but contrary winds will prolong the voyage, and therefore spoil the cargo, by overheating, so as to render it unfit for the purpose of malting. In order to ascertain the condition of the cargo, samples are drawn out of the middle of the bulk. When barley has been overheated in the stack, the germ-end of the grain is turned of a blackish red colour, which denotes that the germ is killed; and, in order to distinguish the one from the other, take the skin off the germ end of the corn, so discoloured, when it will appear shrivelled or dried up; but, in an uninjured state, the germ is full; and if the skin is carefully taken off, it will be yellow in colour, and similar to butter. Barley of the best quality is of uniform size, and is bright in colour; but, if of two colours, denotes it to be a mixture: or it may be hedge-grown, which is objection- able for malting, as it will not work even. The maltster should be careful in avoiding mixed barley, old and new, as such will never grow evenly or work well together: the size, shape, colour, and hardness, may be so similar, that it is difficult to perceive the difference. The maltster, in examining the germ, will perceive a very visible difference; the new, being of a pale, and the old, of a darker yellow, which sufficiently proves that there is a mixture, either of old and new, of an inferior quality. “ MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 17 The missed corns, of course, will not vegetate, and therefore reduces the value of the barley, more or less, according to the number missed. The author has seen wettings, in which not one corn among two hundred has missed; and others, in very unfavourable seasons, in which not one in five would vegetate, in some districts. In good seasons, the maltster’s judgment will seldom fail; but when crops are unfavourable, he requires the test: therefore, if the least doubt occurs, let him by no means omit putting a sample of the doubtful grain, loose in a bag, into the cistern, there to steep with other barley, and from thence to the couch, taking its chance in the bag with the other, always keeping it underneath the surface, until its vegetative powers are displayed, sufficiently for his purpose. Barley produced from light land, is thin skinned, and of a pale yellow, as before observed; so the barley from clayey land is thicker skinned, and of a deeper yellow, and altogether of a coarser quality. The very best thin skinned barley, in-some seasons, will weigh 56lbs. per bushel; and, while the maltster is looking after quality, he should also be mindful of the weight, remembering always that the lighter barleys pay the most duty; therefore, he should not malt any below 50lbs. per bushel, but from necessity. Barley ought not to be cut before it is quite ripe; be- cause it has not obtained all the natural qualities required for malting. Barley, from not having had sufficient warmth for ripening, or not having sweated in the mow, may yet sweat in the bulk, in a bin; or it may have a warming on the kiln, at a summer heat, previous to being steeped. 18 THE ART OF BREWING, ESSAY III. On the Construction of the Malthouse. First, consider the situation, the convenience of water, and the drainage. For size and construction, use the ground-floor, as it is best adapted, and unquestionably the most preferable. ~The ground-floor, being cooler and damper, is much more beneficial for the process of malting. The advan- tages of which are further increased, if the floor is sunk four feet below the surface of the earth; rendering it still cooler for malting in the summer. The cistern should be at one end of the floor, over which should be the barley-loft. The kiln should be placed at thé opposite end of the floor, and the storeage, or loft for the malt, over the malting-floor; and as fast as the malt comes off the kiln, it is gradually worked and trodden, up to the opposite end to that of the kiln; therefore, the oldest made malt always comes first to hand. As the dimensions of the malthouse must depend on the quantity intended to be wetted each time, observe, that one quarter will require one hundred and forty-nine superficial feet floor-room, and likewise forty superficial feet kiln-room, and twelve cubic feet per quarter, in the cistern; therefore, the amount required need only be multiplied by the number of quarters intended to be wetted each time. The next important article for consideration is the malting-floor, which must be well laid, firm, and durable: the ground to be carefully examined for springs, which, if any, will certainly spoil the floor, as far as they may extend; therefore they must be turned away, if possible. MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 19 The brickwork of the building.—The bricks inside of the malthouse, six inches below the floor, and twelve above, should be laid in cement; and the wall to be cemented twelve inches above the floor, to prevent any lodgment of corn in the imperfect or accidental interstices. Respecting the floor—The next business is, that the ground be not stony, and that it be dug up all over, one spit deep, well rammed, made particularly smooth, and laid to a very gentle current, about one inch to twenty feet; then put on a layer of road-scrap- ings, or, in lieu of which, well-tempered clay, moist and pliable, two inches thick, and very even; and when that is sufficiently dry, lay on the cement one good inch in thickness. The Roman cement will do very well; or, if more convenient, one-third coal-ashes, beat and finely sifted, one-third brick-rubbish, beat and finely sifted, one-third quick lime, well mixed and tempered, alto- gether, will make a very firm, smooth, and durable floor. The cistern should be built of brick, laid in cement, with a capping of 3-inch plank, leaded with strong milled lead throughout turned over the capping, andthen nailed round the outer side; otherwise, it may be made of 3-inch oak, and leaded; but timber, alone, will not answer, because, after being in use two or three years, the liquor will penetrate and rot the surface of the timber and it can never after be kept sufficiently clean; such is not the case with lead. The kiln-floor may be laid with a wire, which is wove for that purpose, and superior to any other, as it freely admits the hot air to the grain. The malt loft.—If in the country, a thatched loft is the best; but in towns or cities, they are not considered safe against fire. The interior must be well ceiled; and if the walls are imperfect, they ought to be cemented, to guard against weevil, &c. 20 THE ART OF BREWING, When the malting season is finished, the house should be washed with hot lime-wash, and the floor washed thoroughly; and repeated, a afew days prior to recom- mencement. During the interval, the maltster should not allow any use to be made of the floor, whereby it may be damaged. ESSAY IV. On making of Malt. BARLEY, or other grain, is converted into malt, by - the process of fermentation, which is effected by steeping, (for without steeping, the grain will not vegetate,) which must take place before barley can change its nature, and become malt. When this change is produced, its qua- jities are, perfect sweetness and friability; and although every species of barley, or other grain, will not always produce the same desirable qualities, perfection ought always to be the maltster’s aim. Malting is not confined to barley, but oats, peas, beans, maize, buck-wheat, and common wheat, which are all capable of being malted, and have been experi- mented upon, but barley is the grain most prized. _ Wheat, on account of its weight, has had many trials, to bring it into more general use among brewers; but, from many communications the author has had with | those who have brewed wheat malt, either alone, or “mixed, complain of a heaviness of flavour, and not altogether so pleasant as the liquor brewed from barley malt, MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 21 The author will dilate further on the subject of wheat malt, under the head of BreEwina. It would be a most desirable object to obtain as pleasant an extract from wheat as from barley, independent of other advantages. The heaviest grain is recommended, provided it isin — good malting condition; which will, of course, produce the heaviest malt. What is here intended to be understood by the heaviest malt is, that it shall be malt of a tender and friable nature throughout, and without hard ends, which partake, more or less, of the nature of barley than of malt. Perfect malt is not always obtainable, under the best skill and management; and it would be highly improper to pass lightly or carelessly over so important a subject without dilating more minutely, as if there were no difference. Malt may be very heavy and yet very hard, and too hard to be called malt; and, without sufficient experi- ence, the young brewer may be greatly deceived. Experienced brewers know there is a very great difference in the qualities of malt; therefore, the brewer’s attention is much required to discriminate between the variety of samples that are offered him; at the present time, the difference, on the average, is from one to eight shillings per quarter; and, within the last thirty years, the difference has been as high as from one to six- - teen shillings per quarter; and be it remembered, that if malt is short of the extract, in comparison with the best, it is also short of fine flavour. The maltster’s utmost skill is required to produce malt of the most abundant and perfect sweetness and fria- bility; these essentials obtained, malt will never be too heavy for the brewer. As to the colour and shade of malt. If the brewer is also a maltster, (which every brewer ought to be, both in knowledge and practice,) he can order whatever colour 22 1HE ART OF BREWING, he pleases; or, if he is not a maltster, there is no great difficulty in giving the necessary order for malt of any particular colour and flavour, either of pale, amber, or brown, or the shades between. Directions cannot be precisely given, as to how thick, or how thin, the grain is to lay on the floor in the bed, which is next to the couch, or in the steep, at all times and temperatures. The various signs which are developed during the process, must be carefully attended to, or the signs will pass away unnoticed, and the injury is done. After steeping in the cistern the intended quantity already screened down, and nicely levelled therein, charge the cistern with liquor, to six or seven inches above the barley; and although the barley be well screened, there will always be some light floating matter on the surface of the liquor, which skim off. The grain should lay in the cistern until it will no longer swell; after which, the liquor should be drawn off, and left to drain for six hours, before it is emptied into the couch. The time of laying in the cistern, will depend on the weight and dryness of the grain, as also the season of the year; and as the season advances, after January, it will gradually require less time to steep, because of the inclination Nature hath to put forth root; for air and moisture are her food. The time of steeping varies, according to circum- stances: in very cold weather, it will require more; and in warm, less time:—the time is reckoned, techni- cally, by the term, tide, or tides; each tide being twelve hours. In winter, when Nature moves but slowly, without art, the time of steeping may be five and a half, or six tides, from the time the liquor is put into the cistern to the time of letting, (66 or 72 hours;) at others it will MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. ° 23 cease to swell in less time, which is the period the liquor may be drained off the grain; then the skin of the grain is somewhat loosened from the kernel; and, by pressing the two ends, it will be seen partly separated on one side of the kernel. The grain being in the couch and full of moisture, that moisture, combined with the air, is to force the growth of the root: but the root, or sprit, must not appear while the grain is in the couch, where the law says it shall lay for the space of twenty-six hours; and, if in the warm season, the sprit appears before that time has expired, the time of draining, and, if necessary, that of steeping must be shortened. If the grain is suffered to sprit in the couch, it , will never come even afterwards, as the sprit corns will attract more than their due share of moisture 3 which, moving and turning, in due time will retard and cause every corn to sprit very nearly at the same time, which other- wise would not have spritted, to the amount of one- tenth, more or less, until several days after the rest; therefore, at the time the forward corns are mellow, the later will be in a waxy state, which is one cause of hard, or steely malt. Herein lays the principal art of malting; and the maltster who is aware of it, must be attentive and industrious, to perform it well. From the couch the grain is turned inside-out, into the bed, which occupies about twice or thrice the space of the couch, according to the temperature. Here it may lay six hours more, observing, during its progress, ’ that it is allin a fair way to sprit; or, if otherwise, to give it a gentle turn, before the six hours are expired, and spread it alittlethinner. Let it occupy the whole width of the floor, and lay about six hours more; at the end of which time, all the healthy corns will have sprit: thin it again, and from this period keep turning it often, while it is in full vigour; by which means the root is D « 24 THE ART OF BREWING, kept short and bushy, retaining the moisture, as long as it is required, without sprinkling, to the period of the withering of the root, if the process be sufficiently slow, as it ought to be, for making sweet and heavy malt. The root will begin to wither about the eleventh or twelfth day. The maltster will know when the grain requires turning, by putting his hand into the floor of grain and taking out a handful, and if it smells faint, and the skin appears glossy, or wet, it must be turned. As soon as these signs are perceivable, and after turning, it will smell fresh, and the skin of the grain will be dry, instead of glossy. The omission of turning, in due time, will cause the root to run out, of unequal length. During this period, the acrospire is progressing; the frequent turning preventing the greater absorption of the moisture, the acrospire is benefitted, and encouraged to proceed. When the grain begins to wither, the floor may be gradually spread thicker, to encourage a little more warmth, and to mellow it; still keeping it frequently turned, to keep off the glossy appearance until the moisture is further spent; it will also prevent the acro- spire going too far. It is sufficient, when the acrospire has advanced two-thirds the whole length of the grain; it ought not to protrude. The acrospire is the substance and flavour of the malt; and the further it is suffered to proceed beyond these limits, two-thirds, the more will the substance be exhausted, and the flavour changed: if suffered to pro- trude, either by neglect, or fancy of the maltster, this acrospire is so extremely tender and delicate, that it is difficult to dry it without scorching, which injures the flavour; and, in proportion to the protrusion of the acrospire, so is the malt made hollow and light, and so MALTING, FERMENTING, ETC. 25 much has it lost in weight, and consequently substance and fine flavor. In continuation of the acrospire, frequent turning will most certainly keep the grain within due bounds; and the gradual spending, or exhaustion of the moisture, will also admit of the floor being gradually thickened until it comes to the last throw towards the kiln, in which state every particle will rub to meal between the fingers, the skin being first taken off. In this mealy state it may be put on the kiln, to the amount of one-half, or one-third, of that wetting, according to the size of the kiln; there to be dried by a gentle fire, with a gradual increase of heat, for the first twelve hours: the next twelve hours will make it a one- day kiln. The drying is finished by a clear sweet fire, imcreasing the strength according to the colour required. Thus the drying is conducted from one shade to another; sharpening the fire for each darker shade, up.to the high dried brown malt. Some maltsters prefer drying off the same quantity in two days, by which the malt receives more sweetness and friability. The thinner the grain is spread upon the kiln, the sweeter it is dried, as the steam passes away more freely; consequently, the kiln should not be loaded more than from three to six inches in thickness. The time required for making a floor of malt in the very best manner, including the drying, will occupy twenty-two days from the beginning of the steeping: possibly the outward colour may not be quite equal to that which is produced in much less time, but the - inward qualities will overbalance that deficiency. There are some insurmountable objections, why the shorter period of working the grain has been adopted for many years past, and the motives for preferring its continuance: but there is no reason for brewers, who make their own malt, to c