Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making

Grape Culture, Wines, and Wine-Making

GRAPE CULTURE, WINES, AND WINE-MAKING. WITH NOTES UPON AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE. BY A. HARASZTHY, COMMISSIONER TO REPORT ON THE IMPROVEMENT AND CULTURE OF THE VINE Dt CALIFORNIA, With Pamerons ASllustrations. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANELIN SQUARE. 1862. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year one thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, by ; HARPER & BROTHERS, In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. PREFACE. I suBuirT this work to the kind indulgence of the people of Cal- ifornia. The short time allowed me to complete a work of such magni- tude and importance will, I hope, serve as a partial excuse for its defects. To make a tour through a large portion of Europe—examine and collect information—select vines and trees—write the follow- ing work, with many of the extracts translated from eminent for- eign authors and reports of scientific committees, I was allowed, including my journey to Europe and my return, but seven months and twenty-five days. The task was augmented by extensive and necessary corre- spondence with government officials, scientific societies, and emi- nent writers. During this time I have allowed myself little time for rest or recreation; and if I have succeeded in fulfilling my duty to my State and to her people, I shall feel myself amply rewarded. I plead for a lenient judgment on the work on account of my defective English, being a native of Hungary, although a natural- ized American citizen, which will, I hope, fully explain this una- voidable defect. That my readers will understand my meaning without difficulty is all that I dare hope. The translations contained in the work were, in most cases, nec- essarily literal, and therefore presented difficulties not easily over- come. With these explanations, the author presents his work to the agricultural public, sincerely hoping that future experience may not belie present promises, but that the matter upon which it treats may prove a valuable and an enduring source of wealth to the American horticulturist and farmer. A. HL Buexa Vista,, Sonoma County, California, Digitized by Google REPORT. To the Honorable the Senate and Assembly of the State of California : In accordance with a joint resolution of the Assembly, adopted March 2d, 1861, and concurred in by the Senate, April 1st, 1861, authorizing and requesting his Excellency the Governor to ap- point a commission to report to the next Legislature upon the ways and means best adapted to promote the improvement and culture of the grape-vine in California, I have the honor respect- fully to report as follows: Having been appointed by his Excellency the Governor, J. G. Downey, upon said commission, I first considered the best mode of fulfilling the duties imposed by the above resolution. It became evident to me that the objects of the Legislature would be best secured by an examination of the different varieties of grapes, and the various modes of making wine, in the wine- growing countries of Europe, and I communicated this view to the Governor, and offered my services to proceed to Europe, if he should think it desirable. He approved my suggestion, and sanc- tioned the enterprise, and I at once proceeded on my journey. On my way I stopped at Washington, and was supplied by the Hon. W. H. Seward, Secretary of State for the United States, with a cir- cular letter, directing the diplomatic agents of the United States in Europe to afford me such assistance as lay in their power in this important mission. On my arrival in France,I opened a correspondence with the different imperial agricultural and horticultural societies, request- ing them to furnish such informationsand letters of introduction as would facilitate my object. They responded with cheerfulness ; and I was received with distinction, and afforded every opportu- nity for obtaining the information I required; in fact, I met with general courtesy wherever I went. I visited various parts of France, the Netherlands, Holland, Rhenish Prussia, Bavaria, Nassau, Baden, Switzerland, Spain, It- aly, and England. Various examinations confirmed my previous conviction that California is superior in all the conditions of soil, climate, and other natural advantages, to the most favored wine- producing districts of Europe, and that it actually has yielded con- xvi REPORT. siderably more per acre. All this State requires to produce a generous and noble wine is the varieties of grapes from which the most celebrated wines are made, and the same care and science in its manufacture. This conclusion is the result of a thorough in- vestigation, and frequent consultations with many eminent men in Europe, who assured me that the quality of the grapes governs, in a great measure, the quality of the wine; a fact proved by many scientific experiments, showing that, even in the least favored lo- calities, where common wines were ordinarily made, the finest and most costly wines had been produced by planting the best varie- ties of grape. Having provided myself with analyses of the soil of California from various locations, it was not difficult to obtain a correct esti- mate of its average capacity as a wine-producing State. From all the information I have been able to get, our climate and soil are greatly in our favor. In view of all these facts and the purpose of my mission, I de- termined to make arrangements to purchase a quantity of vines, and also to examine every celebrated wine-making establishment within the limits of my tour, so as to learn and describe the new- est and best methods of making wine. I did not limit my obser- vation and study to the manufactories alone, but progured the re- ports of scientific committees, appointed by different governments to investigate the subject by means of practical experiments, con- tinued through a series of years. I also obtained the proceed- ings of the Congress assembled, by order of the government of France, for the purposes of comparison and consultation, and which was composed of the most scientific chemists and practical wine- makers. I availed myself of the reports of similar assemblies held annually in Germany, and of the newest and best works in various languages, written by able men, who had spent their lives in the business of vine culture and wine-making. It is proper to remark here that I discovered that the countries through which I traveled possessed a lucrative trade by making raisins, drying figs and prunes, raising almonds, cultivating mul- berry-trees for the sustenance of silk-worms, and, above all, pro- ducing sugar at enormous profits from the Sorgho, Imphee, and the sugar-beet ; and I therefore thought it advisable to add to the more strict duties of my mission an investigation into these branches of industry, and to procure the best and newest works concerning them. REPORT. XVii ~ I was gratified to find that of all the countries through which I passed, not one possessed the same advantages that are to be found in California; and I am satisfied that even if the separate advantages of these countries could be combined in one, it would still be surpassed by this State when its now dormant resources shall be developed. California can produce as noble and generous 4 wine as any in Europe; more in quantity to the acre, and without repeated fail- ures through frosts, summer rains, hailstorms, or other causes. The quantity of raisins, currants, figs, almonds, olives, and prunes which we could raise would surprise the most sanguine of our people. The mulberry and the silk-worm would occupy and give support to many industrious females, who have now no remunerative employment, in the rural districts; would aid the small farmer in his efforts to raise and educate a growing family, and would add largely to the wealth and revenue of the State. In my opinion, no country can surpass this in raising the sugar- beet, Sorgho, and Imphee. There is no part of the world, ex- cept perhaps Africa, which can produce the same quantity of these commodities to the acre. The present mode of making sugar from these products is so simple that every farmer, at an expense of $30 for machinery, can manufacture enough for his own use, and have a considerable overplus each year for the market. The cap- italist, too, may safely invest his money in this lucrative business, and enrich himself as well as the State. The countries I visited in which these products were cultivated and manufactured derive from them a considerable revenue, as their statistics show; and there is no substantial obstacle to pre- vent the agriculturists of California from engaging in all the en- terprises I have mentioned. The high price of labor here is more than counterbalanced by the greater value of land, and the enor- mous taxes on these productions in Europe. The development of these branches of industry would not only add to the wealth of the State, but it would also lead to a large immigration fsom Europe. Men conversant with these businesses have not hitherto migrated to California because they had no hope of suitable em- ployment. Capitalists, ignorant of these resources of the State, have not considered the advantages they present for investment. Manufacturers who have grown wealthy in the older countries, having sons or junior partners, would gladly open branch-houses here as soon as it was known that they could purchase an ade- XViil REPORT. quate supply of the raw material in this State. But it would be impossible to enumerate all the benefits which this State would derive from such an increased application of her agricultural ca- pacity. Residents of California who have visited our plantations, vineyards, and farms, and who have attended our district and county fairs, may be able to appreciate these just anticipations. European governments, well knowing the importance of agri- culture and horticulture, appropriate large sums every year, in various ways, for the encouragement of these most important branches of their wealth. Agents are sent to all parts of the world to collect information, to report on new inventions and ameliorations, and to purchase new varieties of vines, trees, seeds, etc. Botanical or experimental gardens are kept, where the plants, vines, or fruit-trees are propagated, and then sold to the people for cost price, or given free of charge to each and every communi- ty, according to population, for distribution among its landhold- ers. Scientific and practical men are employed at high salaries as officers of agriculture and horticulture, whose duty it is to make experiments in all their various branches. The magnificent agri- cultural and horticultural schools, with their experimental gar- dens, costs some States hundreds of thousands of dollars per an- num, and their statesmen frankly admit that money could not be more profitably expended. It can also be shown by statistics that those States which have expended most money in the en- couragement of these departments of industry are now the wealthi- est and most powerful, and their people the least in want. I would respectfully recommend thata law be passed appropriating money for the purchase of land for a propagating and an experimental garden, and creating the office of director to supervise the garden; and also the appropriation of a sum to purchase, from year to year, seeds, vines, etc.; and for other necessary expenses in main- taining said garden. In this connection, I would respectfully draw your attention to the fact that, by late treaties with Japan and China, an opportunity is presented to us to penetrate into those countries, which have been sécluded for centuries. It is well known that many fruits and plants are raised there which might be of great advantage if introduced into this State. A thorough examination of those countries would probably bring to light some products which have not been thought of here. To leave such inquiries to private enterprise would be a tardy mode of realizing the object. I doubt if half a century would accom- REPORT. xix plish, by private means, what might speedily be attained by offi- cial investigation. No private individual, however wealthy, would have the same facilities to investigate and procure seeds and plants as an agent authorized by his government. This is the case in civilized Europe. How much more necessary is such a prestige in semi-civilized countries? The passage of a law for the above purposes may be opposed on the ground that we have a national garden at Washington, but it is well known that the few shrubs and seeds we receive from thence are too ofterf dry and useless. California ought to propagate only such vines, fruits, seeds, etc., as are congenial to her soil and climate, and in large quantities, so that our citizens can be promptly supplied. The Patent Office represents too varied interests, climates, and soils, to do much good to us here. One might as well say that California needs no Gov- ernor, Legislature, or Judiciary, as that our public affairs might be administered from Washington; and, in fact, it would be easier to govern us from Washington, than for the Patent Office to sup- ply what we want for the speedy development of our agricultural and horticultural resources. ' In my travels I endeavored to induce capitalists to come among us and establish business places, to purchase the grapes from the small producers as in Europe, and to erect manufactories for making wine and extracting sugar from Sorgho, beet-root, and Imphee. I also urged the formation of a joint-stock company, with a capital of a million dollars, for the planting of vines, olives, almonds, mulberries, etc., in the southern part of the State. The prospect for the consummation of these enterprises is favorable, and especially if the apprehensions of a foreign war should sub- side. Whenever there was an opportunity to get an article about Cali- fornia and its immense resources in an influential newspaper, I embraced it, and many government journals heralded our advant- ages by publishing the letters your commissioner had written to their officials. Permit me to say here that in no way can the ob- ject of rapidly populating our State be more effectually accom- plished than by authorized agents traveling in Europe, not for the direct purpose of inducing emigration, but of noting the progress of agricultural and manufacturing pursuits. These agents would come in contact with all classes of persons; questions would be eagerly asked, and opportunities be thus afforded to publish the advantages California possesses. Coming from an official source, xx REPORT. the information would be credited, newspapers would refer to it, and, with the aid of the reports of our ‘State Agricultural Soci- ety” (which I was fortunate enough to possess), these authorized statements would be authenticated by the enumerated premiums and descriptions from visiting committees. It excited surprise that a State so young and so isolated should have already such wealth of agriculture and horticulture as I proved ; and this sur- prise among Europeans is not so wonderful, as California was there known principally Yor its gold. Even our Eastern brethren were astonished when I showed from our reports the extraordinary productiveness of our soil and the salubrity of our climate. The appropriations made by the Legislature for the printing of the proceedings of the “State Agricultural Society” have, and will continue to bring back many times their amount. It would be well to distribute these evidences of our resources in such a man- ner as would reach more directly the people in the East and in Europe. Books sent to other agricultural societies generally fail to reach the public, being mostly retained in their libraries; but if they were sent to the editors of prominent newspapers, they would receive a much wider circulation. I have purchased in different parts of Europe 100,000 vines, embracing about 1400 varieties; small lots of choice almonds, olives, oranges, lemons, figs, pomegranates, and Italian chestnuts —enough to propagate from by grafts. The majority of the grape-vines I have engaged I have seen bearing. From those countries which I was unable to visit I ordered, through our con- suls (to whom I remitted the necessary funds), such products as I thought necessary, and I have no doubt they will be forwarded in time to be dispatched from Havre with the others. My con- tracts were made, in all places, in presence of the United States consul, leaving the money with him to be paid when the vines, etc., were delivered, and instructing the consuls to send them, so as to arrive in Havre on or a few days before the 1st of December, 1861. A gardener whom J employed will attend to their proper shipment, take charge of them on the voyage, and repack them in New York, where arrangements have been made with Wells, Far- go, & Co., for their farther transportation to San Francisco, under the care and supervision of the gardener. All necessary precau- tions have been taken, and I am confident they will arrive in the very best order. They are expected to reach San Francisco by the steamer due on the 23d of January, 1862. AsIdo not know REPORT. xxi the exact freight and expenses, I am not able to state the amount of cost and charges to your honorable body, but will do so as soon as possible. It may not be irrelevant here to mention the fact that in Cali- fornia, as well as in the Eastern States, the public mistrust the pu- rity of California made wines in the hands of merchants. Wheth- er merchants do or do not adulterate the wine, such doubts injure its character, and restrict its sale greatly. Therefore, to insure confidence, and prevent such adulterations, I would respectfully submit whether it might not be a wise policy to pass an act ap- pointing a general agent for the State, who should reside in San Francisco, and to whom the wine- producers could send their wines to be sold; the agent to sell the wine at the prices fixed by the manufacturer, with the proprietor’s label on the bottles, or, if in barrels, with his name attached thereto. This agent, so appoint- ed, to receive from the owners of all wines or brandies sold a com- mission, to be fixed by law, and not to exceed the commissions usually received by merchants; the agent to defray the expense of office and cellar out of the commissions he may receive. The law creating said office might also impose heavy fines and confis- cation of the liquor belonging to any individual who should send for sale adulterated articles. Such an office would be no burden to the State nor to the wine-growers, as it would be optional with them to send their wines to this officer or dispose of them in any other way. Every producer, however, would find it to his advant- age to avail himself of this medium, as he would meet a ready sale, and pay no more than the usual commissions, while he would aid in preventing frauds, and thus create confidence in the genu- ineness of our wines. The agent would have to be strictly im- partial. All the samples should be indifferently exposed and ac- cessible to purchasers, who could select the wines best suited to their tastes. The agent should be required to give ample bonds for the faithful and impartial performance of his duty, and for the prompt payment of all receipts on account of sales. This plan would, I believe, restore confidence, and be at least a check upon poisoning our people by our own productions. His Excellency the Governor has directed me to propagate the vines expected to arrive here from Europe at Sonoma, and hold them and the increase subject to the future disposition of the Leg- islature. Thave the honor to annex to this report a condensed statement, xxii REPORT. which will serve to show the contents of a work I propose to pub- lish, and which will contain a full account of what I personally observed and inspected in Europe, with extracts from foreign works, reports of committees, eminent writers, practical vintners, farmers, horticulturists, manufacturers. As soon as this work is completed, which will be, I think, be- fore the adjournment of the Legislature, I will furnish a printed copy to each branch of your honorable body. Not having been able, since my recent return, to learn any thing of my colleagues and their labors, I respectfully submit this as my report, and I have the honor to be, with distinguished respect, your obedient servant,” A. HARASZTHY, Commissioner on the Impr t and Growth of the Grape-vine in Californiu. CONTENTS. CHAPTER IL FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO PARIS. Appointment as Commissioner.—Preparations.—Departure from California.—Cir- cular Letter from Mr. Seward.— Voyage to Europe.—Arrival at Paris.—My Son. —Correspondence.—Departure for Dijon............s:0sssecsseseessssessessseees Page 33 CHAPTER II. . THE BURGUNDY WINE DISTRICT. Start for Dijon.—Observations on the Road.—Arrival at Dijon.—Professor Ladrey. —Aged Vines.— The Market. — Inferior Fruits.—The Botanical Garden. —Its Vines.—Visit Gevrey.—Prices of Vineyards and Wines.—Manufacture of Red Wines. — The Pineau Vineyards. —Vineyards of Chambertin.—Wine-vaults at Morey.—The Fermenting-room.—The Press,—The Gamai Vineyards.—Beaune. —Casemates used as Wine-cellars.—Clos Vougeot.— Wince-presses 754 years old. —The Press-house.—Mode of testing Wines.—The Cellars.— Quality of Burgundy Wines,—The Céte d’Or.—The Vineyard of Clos Vougeot.—The Pineau and the Gamai Grapes.—Mode of laying out a Vineyard.—Experiments in Planting.— Treatment until bearing.—Three-bud Pruning.—Aspect of the Vineyards.—Ouv- ries.—Manuring Vines. —Keeping close to the Ground.—Pruning for large and small Crops.—Burgundy Vines must be cultivated as at Home.—The Vintage.— Fenced Vineyards.—Unfenced Vineyards.—Laws regulating the time of gathering Grapes.—The Laborers.—Small Proprietors make inferior Wine.—The fewer the Grapes the better the Wine.—Return to Paris...........sccsseseseccscceereneseeens eae 36 CHAPTER III. FROM PARIS TO FRANKFORT ON THE MAINE. Ball at the Chateau des Fleurs.—The Emperor's Féte-day.—The Illumination and Fireworks.—Orderly Conduct of the People.—Departure for Germany.—Observa- tions on the Way.—Ems.— The Casino. —Gambling.—The Promenade.— Dr. Precht.—Donkey and Mule Riding.—The Valley of the Swiss.—Count Stein's Tomb.—Grist-mills.—The Water-wheels.—Silver Mines.—Condition of the Peo- ple.—The Theatre.—Letters and Visits.—Coblentz.—Difficulty with Bankers.— Start for Frankfort.—Letters of Credit preferable to Cash.—Conversation with Passengers.—Notes by the Way.—Arrival at Frankfort.—Letters of Introduction. —Americans in Frankfort............cccecserseeeeee stesececeneeeecesesscecnees . sore 53 CHAPTER IV. _ HOCHHEIM, STEINBERG, AND JOHANNISBERG. Hochheim.— Mr. Dresel.— The Champagne Manufactory. —Mr. Lembach.—His Cellar.—His Method of Wine-making.—Different Wines from the same Grape.— The Barrels.—Sulphuring the Barrels.—Price of Wines.—Regulations for Gather- ing the Grapes.—Visit to the Champagne Manufactory.—Mr. Hummel.—Wies- xxiv CONTENTS. ) baden.—Professor Medicus.—The Kurhaus.—The Gambling Rooms.—Dr. Thom. —Biberich.—The Chief of the Steinberg Vineyards.—The Steinberg Vineyards. —Mode of Cultivating the Grape.—The Farm-yard.—Eberbach.—The Wine Cellars.—Tasting Wines.—Bouquet of Old and New Wines.—How to taste fine Wines.—Assorting the Grapes.—Manufacturing the Wine.—Large and small Barrels.—Requisites for making good Wines.—The Presses.—Visit to Johannis- berg.—The Soil of the Region.—Vineyards not Sold.—Their Value.—Palace of Johannisberg.—The Vineyard.—The Cellars.—The Johannisberg and Steinberg Wines. — Rivalry between them.— The Superioritp sometimes accidental. — A lucky Stroke. — Prices the same. — Last Glasses of Johannisberg. — Geisberg. — The Experimental Gardens.—Results of Experiments.—High Trimming and low Trimming of Vines.—The School of Agriculture. —Exchange of Seeds.—Depart- ure for Frankfort.—Report of Wine Auctions at Eberbach .............cce0 Page 61 CHAPTER V. GERMANY, THROUGH SWITZERLAND, TO ITALY. From Frankfort to Mayence.—The Russian Lady and her Maid.—Her extra Bag- gage.—Our Talk about California.—European Ideas of our State.—Hints for the Press of California.—Wash dirty Linen at Home.—Chronicle on Normal Progress rather than on exceptional Crimes.—Mayence to Heidelberg.—Tobacco.—Heidel- berg.—Nursery at Wiesloch.—Carl Brunner.—His Nursery, Gardens, and Vinc- yard.—His Wine-press.—The great Tun at Heidelberg.—Start for Basle.—Notes by the Way.—Hemp.—Manuring by Burning.—From Basle to Geneva.—Neuf- chatel.—The Swiss and American Lakes. —Geneva.—Passports for Italy. —Amer- icans in Geneva.—Departure for Italy.—The Road and the Country.—St. Jean de Moreno.—The Tunnel.—Crossing the Summit.—The Descent.—Arrival at Turin ........ccecceeeeeee dseececeeesaecccsssenscesescoereesssseeenenens doveenseccesnsecccserseree 17 CHAPTER VI. ITALY :—WINE AND SILK. Turin.—Passports.—Leave for Genoa.—Vines and Mulberries.—Plowing.—Grain Crops.—Manuring.—Asti and its Wines.—Reach Genoa.—The Birthplace of Columbus.—Narrow Streets.—Professor Isnard.—Procure Vines.—Nova.—The Silk Manufactory.—Jealousy of Visitors.—Scanty Information.—Raising Silk- worms.—Return.—Effects of Asti Wine.—Return to Genos.—Wine-making in Italy.—No Berths for Civita Vecchia.—Leave for Marseilles.—The Voyage.— Laying by.—Extra Charge for Board.—Arrival at Marseilles..........sssesesseee 90 CHAPTER VII. THE BORDEAUX WINE DISTRICT. Leave Marseilles for Bordeaux.—Agricultural Notes.—Vines, Olives, Almonds, and Mulberries.—Montpellier—Frontignan.—Cette.—Manufacture of spurious Wines. —Carcassonne.—New Vineyards.— Wheat and Maize.—Toulouse.—The Canal du Midi.—Montauban.—Prunes.—Agen.—Reach Bordeaux.—Botanic Gardens. — American Ships.—Steel-plated Vessels.—M. de Luze.—His Wine-vaults.—Price of Wines.—Corks and Capsules.—Barrels.—The Fruit Nursery.—A Bird Fan- cier.—Prune Establishment of A. Dufour and Company.—Drying and packing Prunes.—California as a Fruit Country.—Dinner with M. de Luze.—Visit to Chateau Margaux.—The famous Vineyard.—The Store-room.—The Press-room. —Manufacturing the Wine.—Chateau Rauzan.—A bad Year.— Victor Rendu on the Wines of Bordeaux: The different Sorts—Wines of the Medoc.—The Vines. CONTENTS. XXV —Mode of Cultivation.—The Manufacture of Wines.—Quantity produced.—Clas- sification of Medoc Wines.—The chief Vineyards.—Prices of Wines.—Prices of Vineyards.—The Champagne District.—The Vineyards.—The Grapes. —Cultiva- tion of the Vines.—The Vintage.—Manufacture of Champagnes.—Classification of Champagnes.—Quantity of Champagnes produced.—Markets.— Departure for Spain.......... con ecnesovsecccrenneeccansereaesseccenesneansecs ones ceerascsaessecoeoeseres .-Page 98 CHAPTER VIII. JOURNEY THROUGH SPAIN: WINE, RAISINS, AND OLIVES. Departure for Spain.—Delay for Passports.—Country between Bordeaux and Bay- onne.— Shepherds on Stilts. — Bayonne. — Loading Revolvers.— Napoleon at Hand.—Start by Diligence for Madrid.—The Diligence.—The Driver and the Mules. —The Postillion.—On Spanish Frontier.—Ascent of the Pyrenees.—Des- olate Aspect of the Country.—Breakfast.—Water and Towel.—Another Inspec- tion of Baggage.—A Municipal Misunderstanding.—Burgos.—The Railway.— Passengers bound for a Bull-fight.—Delay.—Train full.—Passengers left behind. —Change Cars,—Delay again.—Refreshments.—Arrival at Madrid.—Our Hotel. —Compassionate Waiter.—The Fair.—The Royal Palace.—The Prado.—The Fountain.—General Description of the Country traversed. —Product.—Execrable Wines.—Leave Madrid for Malaga. —Delay.—Difficulty about Baggage.—Final- ly settled.— Off at last.—Stopped again.—One Passenger too many.—A Discus- sion.—The extra Child.—A Night Ride.—Morning.—Beggars.—Vines appear. —Ordinary Spanish Wines very poor.—The Boy again.—Building a Railway.— Barren Country.—A beautiful Valley.—Dinner at Victoria.—Arrival at Granada. —See the City.—Our Carriage.—The Sights of Granada.—Beggars.—Start for Malaga.—Notes by the Way.—Malaga.— Wine and Raisins.—Making Raisins.— The Drying-grounds.—Picking and Packing.—Malaga Wines.—Vinegar-making. —Fig Culture.—Horse-fight.—Apprehensions of Damages.— Manufacture of Ol- ive Oil.—Cotton and Iron Manufactories.—Buy Plants.—Goat-milk.—Passports again.—Depart for Alicante.—Aspect of the Coast.—Alicante.—Barcclona.— Wine-making.—Leave for Paris, via Marseilles and Lyons.—Arrival at Paris.— Give up Project of visiting Greece and Egypt.—Start for Home, via England.— Arrive in AMCTICA ..........00...ccscsesessesesssesssessssseseesetes tteececeecessescccensoees LIS CHAPTER IX. GRAPES AND WINES IN CALIFORNIA. The Author's Experience.—Climate.—Site.—Soil.—Plowing.—Laying ont a Vine- yard.—Digging Holes.—Planting.—Cultivating.—Pruning in different Years.— Sammer Pruning.—Crushing.—Cost of Planting a Vineyard.—The Author's Ex. penditure on One hundred Acres.—Quality of the Author’s Wines.—Mr. Szemere's Pamphlet.—Adulteration of Wine in Europe.—Quantity of Wine produced in France.—The Wines of Hungary. —Prospects of Wine Culture in California.— Statistics of Wine Culture in Europe. — Good and bad Years in Zurope. — The Advantages of California as a Wine Coumtry.......cccssesssssssscsscesersseseeses 142 xxvi CONTENTS. APPENDIX A. JOHANN CARL LEUCHS ON WINES. I. Constituent Parts of the Grape.—II. Hungarian Wines.—III. Rhine Wincs.— IV. Franconian Wines. —V. Other German Wines.—VI. Italian Wines. —VII. Spanish Wines. — VIII. Portuguese Wines. — IX. Madeira Wines. —X. Cape Wines.— XI. Greek Wines.—XII. Grape Culture in Turkey, Persia, etc.—XII. Grape Culture in Africa, America, Russia, etc. ...........sccreereseesserseees Page 161 APPENDIX B. JOHANN CARL LEUCHS ON WINE-MAKING. I. Fermentation. The After Fermentation.—II. Jiplements used in Wine-making : The Thermometer. Table of Scales of different Thermometers. The Areometer. The Acid Scale.—III. Manufacturing Grape Wines: General Observations. Gatb- ering the Grapes. Crushing and Pressing. Fermentation. Filling in the Must. Making Sweet Wine. Making Frozen Wine. Making new Wines appear old.— IV. Classification of Wines. —V. Drawing off the Wine.—VI. Treatment of bot- tled Wines. Filling up and Wasting. — VII. Clarifying Wines.—VIII. Giving Color to Wines.—IX. Mixing and judging of Wines.—X. The principal Diseases of Wines: Sudden Changes. Souring. Becoming Glutinous. Woody, mouldy, and bitter Taste. Cloudiness and Muddiness.—XI. Adulterations of Wines. — XII. Uses for the Husks and Sediment.—XIH. The Cellars, Casks, Bottles, and Implements.—XIV. Wine Measures of all Countries .........sssessesseeeseeesneee 193 APPENDIX C. DE. L. GALL ON IMPROVEMENTS IN WINE-MAKING. I. Grape-sugar.—II. The Grape and its Components. —III. Methods of Picking Grapes: At Castle Johannisberg. Mr. J.A.Ackermann’s Method. Mr. S. Hir- ter’s Method. Messrs. Buhl, Jordan, and Wolff’s Method. Method used in To- kay and Syrmia. Relative Value of perfectly Ripe Grapes. Benefits from Se- lecting. Benefits from perfect Maturity.—IV. Progress of Wine-making to the Middle of this Century, illustrated by Examples.—V. Principal Contents of the Grape necessary for the Fabrication of Wine: Water. Sugar and the Must-Scale. Artificial Grape-sugar. Acids and the Acid-Scale. Salts. Gummy Parts. Col- oring Matter. Nitrogenic Parts. Flavoring Matters. Extractive Matter.—VI. Wine Fabrication since 1850: Gall’s Procedure and Improvements. VII. Gall on Reformations in Wine-making.—VIII. Preparations for the Vintage.—IX. Oc- cupations in the Press-house: Manner of Extracting. Improving the Natural Prod- uct.—X. Diibrunfaut and Petiot’s Method of increasing the Quantity of Wines. Gall’s Experiment on Petiot’s Svstem. Application of the Extractor to Petiot’s Method.—XI. Fermentation and its Products: In a high Temperature. Close Fer- mentation. The Alcohol. The Vaporimeter. Carbonates. Ether. Acetic Acid. Barrel Yeast. XII. Husk Wine Fabrication according to Cadet de Vaut and Gall. —XIII. Care of Wines, and their Diseases: Mould. Sliminess. Sourness. Cloud- iness. Woody and Mouldy Taste.—XIV. Supplementary Remarks...... sees 235 APPENDIX D. ¥. RUBENS UPON THE VINE AND ITS TREATMENT. I. The Vine and its Propagation.—II. The Vineyard.—IIT. Care of a Bearing Vineyard.—IV. Preserving and Shipping Grapes.—V. Discases of the Grape- vine.—VI. Choice Varieties of Grapes for Wine-making.—VII. Average Pro- duction of Wine in Europe ..........sscccsscsssessssscesecseceseennsasenseees sovvcesveeree 301 CONTENTS. XXvVii APPENDIX E. J. BEYRE ON THE MANUFACTURE OF SPARKLING WINES. How the Sparkling is produced.—How to regulate the Sparkling. —The CEnometer. — Manufacture of Sparkling Wine. — Double Faucet. — ‘The Bottles.—Caillet's Cleaning Apparatus.—The Corks.—Leroy’s Corking Machine.—Maurice's Cork- ing Machine.—Fastening the Strings.—Fastening the Wire.—Piling the Bottles. —Storing the Wine.—The Aphrometer.—Placing Bottles. —Removal of Sediment. —Boiled Liquors for the English Market.—Cold Liquors for the English Market. — Mosbach’s Funnel. — Cameaux’s Charging Machine. — Machet Vacquant's Charging Machine.—The Liquor.—Filtering the Liquor.—Sealing Mixtures.— Jaunay and Maumené’s Improvements in the Manufacture of Sparkling Wines.— Generating Carbonic Acid. — Adulteration of Wines. — Explanations of Plates. age 323 APPENDIX F. E. LUCAS ON DRYING FRUITS. General Rales.—The Drying-room.—Drying in Ovens.—In heated Rooms.—In the Air and Sun.—Drying Quinces, Plums, and Cherries. —Expenses of Fruit-drying in Germany.—Apples and Prumes..........sssceesescccceeseeseeceeceecescoecsccoeseoses 363 APPENDIX G. A. ZIEGLER ON THE CULTURE OF THE SILK-WORM. Introductory Note on Silk Culture in California. —Advantages of the Culture of the Silk-worm.—The Breeding of the Caterpillars.—The Breeding-room.—The Eggs and their Development.— The Food and Feeding of the Caterpillars.—The differ. ent Periods in the Life of the Silk-worm.—Air, Light, Warmth, and Space.— Cleaning the Crates.—Putting up the Spinning-bushes.—Discases of the Silk- worm.—Enemies of the Silk-worm.—Propagation of the Caterpillar, and obtain- ing the Eggs.—Taking off and assorting the Cocoons.—Killing the Cocoons.— Converting the Cocoons into Money.—Winding and Winding Establishments.— The Floret Silk.—The Magnaries...........0:cccssssssssscsscseasees deeeeeaeenveesecees 369 APPENDIX H. P. W. PHILIPPI ON POTATO-STARCH AND GRAPE-S8UGAR .......00006 389 APPENDIX I. K. J. EBERT ON BEET-8SUGAR. The Beet and its Culture.—Estimating the Saccharine Matter.—Manufacture of Beet-sugar.—Cleaning the Beets.—Extracting the Juice.—Pressing.—Macern- tion.—Boiling.—Preservation of the Juice.—Defecation of the Juice. —The Con- centration, Filtration, and Preparation of the “Spodium.”—Evaporating Appa- ratus.—The First Evaporation.—The First Filtration.—The Second Evaporation. —Second Filtration.—Animal Coal.—Boiling in.—Crystallization.—Operations of the Filling-room........ dee ceeeeeeeescceaceeecesesscenesesesensceessasssensseeesonsenesces 895 APPENDIX K. H. 8. OLCOTT ON THE SORGHO AND IMPHEE. Introductory Note.—First appearance of the Sorgho and Imphee in Europe.—Vari- ous Experiments.—Mr. Leonard Wray.—Introduction of the Sorgho into Amer- ica.—History of Sorgho in the Southern States.—Soils required.—Yield of Seed and Fodder.—Making Sugar or Sirup on a small Scale.—Boiling and Clarifying. —Reducing to Sugar.—Mr. Wray’s Patent ........sssescssccstesssestessssssssnsens - 407 Rerort TO THE LEGISLATURE OF CALIFORNIA,........00000 eeececnseeeeceeceecesess xv Digitized by Google LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page 1. Hilton’s Instrument for drawing off Wines. ati 2. Occhsle’s Must-Scale 257 - 8. Otto’s Acid-Scale...............s0006 263 4. Geisler’s Acid-Scale............. . 264 5,6. Grape Baskets ..........ccreee 273 8. Crushing Apparatus.......... eee 273 9. The Extractor..........sscccccccecssscessscetevecscceasenceseeecceneesseceesseeeessenes 276 10-16. Diagrams of Extractor.............ccscccssesscscesessecesssoeses dessscesecasee 277, 278 17. The Vaporimeter.............. 289 18. Vine Shoots...........cc0seceee - 19. Vine Bud.. ... 20. Vine Slip......... 21. Vine Cutting 21. Training Layers......... eenneeecconconoveeseentessensnneeseaenesccauesoraesesscones eee 22. Layer in Basket............ 22-24. Methods of Budding....... 25. Head Pruning.............000 26. Bush Pruning............ 27-29. Training on Trellis ..... 80. Transplanting Shoots 81-89. Pruning Knives and Shears.............. 40. Improved Safety Faucet...............0+ 41. Christian’s Safety Cock... 42. Oecchsle’s Must-Scale. ... 43. Acid-Scale...........ssssee+ 44. Fermentation Tube.......... 45. Closed Fermentation Tub.............. 46. Ebullioscope, or Alcohol-Scale..... 47-48. 49. 50. 51-52. Sulphurating Apparatus............. 58. Auguer’s Hydraulic Bung.......... 54. Masson Toux’s Hydraulic Bung...........ssccccccssssesseceesacsecesssseneecesoes 55. Maumene’s Bung...........cssssccsecescsesesescrersssseceessseneces desecceseeerees 352 56. SIphom...........ceececcssssssesceeseeeseoes 57. Apparatus for drawing off Wine 58. Apparatus for producing Carbonic Acid Gas eeseee 59. Payen and Maumené’s Tannin Apparatus......... 60. The Genometer, or Must-Scale............cssssccoseees 61. Double Faucet for Bottling Wines.............cccccccccssssecsscecsereneesesesees xxx 62. 65. 66. 68. 69. 70. 71-73. 74. 75. 76. 7. 79-83. 84. 85. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. , Page Caillet’s Cleaning Apparatus...........0ssssssscescsseseeee seeeeeees teneceseseacone 354 Frames for holding Bottles we oe oes Leroy's Corking Machine...........ssssccccscssssssrerscencessssseterrecsteessesses Maurice’s Corking Machine...........cccccssscossseccsscsessssecssctesseseesceees 355 Piling Bottles eee we wee Cellar for storing Wine.............ccssccssscssscccscesscceecsssesecacecseceeeesees 856 The Aphrometer ..........-ssscssecseceececcessenceesecceersesseneees teeeeereeenee wee 356 Bottle Stand see eve tee tsvevaseocerseaceeses 357 Packing Bottles senncenceeeeee --. 356 Removing the Dregp.........ssesecccossecsessctersecsecesereresseeseeeereenes . 357 Mosbach's Funnel..........ssscessesses . . -. 355 Cameaux’s Charging Machine .............sssccesesseeees seeeee wee 357 Machet Vaquant’s Charging Machine ............-.ssee00 .. .. 858 Tub and Pestle.........cccecscssssessesevereeees Lesenessereeessoanes vee 860 Jaunay and Maumené’s Apparatus .............ssecesssssecsecconserenaes we 859 Parts of Jaunay and Maumene’s Apparatus.........csececsscerevecsees --. 360 The Sorgho Plant.........cccscccccsssensseeee seenees ceeseneneereeseseeeescess 408 Residence of the Author.........ssscccssecenees tessescesersvereeeveconees Frontispiece. GRAPE CULTURE, WINES, AND WINE-MAKING., Digitized by Google GRAPE CULTURE AND WINE-MAKING. CHAPTER I. FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO PARIS. Appointment as Commissioner.—Preparations—Departure from California. —Cir- cular Letter from Mr. Seward.—Voyage to Europe.—Arrival at Paris.—My Son: —Correspondence.—Departure for Dijon. Hayne received from his Excellency the Governor, J. G. Downey, the appointment of ‘‘Commissioner upon the Ways and Means best adapted to promote the Improvement and Growth of the Grape-vine in California,” I proceeded to Sacramento to lay my plan before the Governor, and received his sanction to go to Europe for the purpose of collecting information, and such vines and trees as in my judgment were best adapted for our State. The Legislature not having made any appropriation for the pur- pose of defraying the necessary expenses, I had to make use of my own means, which I cheerfully did, having been assured that my traveling expenses and money laid out for the purchase of the vines and trees would be refunded by the next Legislature. The Press in various parts of the