The Culture of the Grape and Wine Making - 7th ed

The Culture of the Grape and Wine Making - 7th ed

THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, AND WINE-MAKING; BY ROBERT BUCHANAN. APPENDIX CONTAINING DIRECTIU CULTIVATION OF THE STRAWBERRY, BY N. LONGWORTH. © SEVENTH EDITION. CINCINNATI: MOORE, WILSTACH, KEYS & CO., 25 Wrst Fourtru Srretr. 1861. Entered accorling to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, by MOORE & ANDEESON, In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the District of Ohia CINCINNATI: ©. A. MORGAN & CO., STEREOTYPERS, HAMMOND #F. ‘KOK v u PREFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. Tue year 1853 was the most favorable for the Grape Crop since 1848, and the yield unusually large, averaging about 650 gal- lons to the acre, from the best cultivated vineyards, and from a few, 800 to 900 gallons. The writer obtained from 5 acres, 4,236 gallons, or 847 gallons per acre. In some parts of the country, the crop was shortened by the “rot,” and in many vineyards by careless cultivation; so that the average yield for the whole county did not exceed 400 gallons to the acre. In currvrg, nothing new has been discovered within the last year. A light dressing of ashes, turned in with the first spring hoeing or ploughing, is still thought to be s valuable application, to correct acidity in the soil and in the grape. In suMMER PRUNING, more wood should be left in dry seasons than in wet ones. In making the Wine, it is now though best not to stem the grapes, as the “tannin” contained in the stems is supposed to be necessary, in some seasons, to clarify the Wine. The juice from ~ the last pressing of each pressful, should be put with the inferior wine, as its weakness and astringency injures the good. Magzca 7th, 1854, (iii) 87229 PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. ¢ TureEe editions of this little treatise, within a year, being required to supply the demand for it, would seem to indicate that the public interest in Grape Culture is on the increase. The author therefore deems it his duty to give the result of his own experience, and that of his fellow-members of the “ Wine-growers’ Association,” in vineyard culture during the past year. It was found that the severe frosts of January and February, 1852—8° to 12° below zero—killed many of the grape buds in warm exposed situations, and several vineyards in Kentucky, a few miles south of this city, scarcely produced any fruit. The hard frosts of the 18th and 19th of March did not injure the grape buds, although many apples, such as the yellow Belleflower, were killed in the opening bud; all the peaches, many of the pears, and most of the cherries were destroyed. The frosts of the middle of April and second week in May injured the young shoots of the vine, especially in low situations or near moisture, and in the rows near grass ; but with all these visitations from frosts, the grape crop was a very promising one until attacked by the rot, the second week in July, and subsequently the first week in August —the latter but slight. This disease appeared to affect those vineyards most, that were in low situations, or vot fully ex- posed to a free circulation of air, either from close planting or otherwise. High manuring, deep hoeing or plowing, and a want of summer pruning at the right time, it was thought, increased the liability to rot. This disease, or something like it, prevailed in many parts of Europe, last year, where it had scarcely been known before, and in the island of Madeira caused an almost entire failure of the grape crop. In this vicinity it cut off about half of the average crop, reducing the product of the whole county to about one hundred gallons per acre. Some made more, but many less than that average. It was Civ) > earned title—the “father of vine culture” in this region. PREFACE. Vv observed that the poor lands and high situations suffered Jeast. It 1s supposed by some that the rot is allied to the mildew, and that scat- tering flour of sulphur over the vineyard, in June and again in July, may prevent the rot, as sulphur is applied as a remedy for mil- , dew, in grape-houses, with complete success. This experiment might be tried. Ashes are certainly a valuable application, scat- ' tered over the surface and turned under with the spring hoeing. Dr. Rehfuss strongly recommends this. Insects did but little injury to the vine last year. The one “resembling a small rose-bug” was scarce. A new woodcut, to o illustrate spring pruning and summer train- _ ing, has been inserted in place of the old one, which was imperfect . in some points. In spRine PRUNING it is found best to omit the first tie, if the branch is too stiff to bend easily in a circle or bow. ‘This _ leaves a three-quarter bow or circle. Summer PRuninG should be _ done prompily ; if deferred too late it is certainly injurious, but be careful not to prune too close. - The vineyards near Hermann, Mo., are said now to amount to ’ near five hundred acres. The liberal premiums offered by Mr. Alex- ander Kayser, of St. Louis, for the best Missouri wines, were awarded ” at Hermann in August last, at a large and enthusiastic meeting of the wine-growers of that vicinity. Scuuyixitt Grave has been adopted by the “ Wine-growers’ Association,” as the proper name of that heretofore known as the _ “Cape Grape”—Cape being a misnomer. VinryaRp MgMoRanpA continued from page 55—1852. A bad year for rot; lost one- . third of a fall crop, but still made from five acres in bearing, 1,700 gallons wine. Sold, in December, 1,600 gallons at $1,25 per gallon. Have for sale this year, about 75,000 cuttings. The grapes ripened well, and the wine was of fine quality. Trenched two acres more for vineyard. The demand for CaTawBa WINE is far ahead of the supply, and the quality is con- stantly being improved, both by the cultivators and those who prepare it for market. Mr. Longworth’s expenditures have been large and liberal, fully sustaining his well- BR. BucHanan. Cincinnati, Feb. 18th, 1853. PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. Tue first edition of one thousand copies of this Treatise was exhausted in a few months, and a second has been called for. The present is cheerfully undertaken, with a view to add such information as may have been acquired during the last two years, on this so favorite a subject with the Author. Few changes in Grape culture within that period, however, have been found necessary. Suggestions in relation to spring and summer pruning are still under discussion, and some improve- ments in Wine-making have been adopted. Early last year a number of proprietors of vineyards, impressed with the importance of united efforts, formed themselves into the “ American Wine Growers’ Association,” for the purpose of mu- tual instruction by a free interchange of opinions, at periodical meetings. Thus. far their labors have been eminently successful: ‘“‘ The Western Horticultural Review,” edited with great ability by Dr. Jno. A. Warver, is the medium through which their proceedings are given to the public. The articles on the subject of Grape culture and Wines, with the monthly Calendar for the vineyard, so carefully prepared by the Editor, will be found of great value to the vine-dresser. It is not pretended that a brief treatise like this, can do justice to a subject of such importance, but it is hoped that it may serve as a hand-book to new beginners in the business, who will, of course, in the progress of their labors, study more elaborate works from abler pens. | Compilations are like labor-saving machines, suited to the pres- ent go-ahead age, of Steamboats, Railroads, and Telegraphs, where time is everything. The American mind can not wait for detail, therefore the extracts from the writings of others are short, and the original matter by the author condensed. The object of the publication at first, is explained in the preface to the former edition. Cincinnati, March 17th, 1852. (vi) TO THB CINCINNATI HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. TxE cultivation of the Grape in vineyards, for making wine, is now so important a branch of horticulture, in the valley of the Ohio, and especially in this vicinity, that a brief Treatise on the subject may perhaps be considered useful. The one now presented, has been compiled from several valuable articles on grape culture, published within the last ten years, in horti- cultural periodicals, by able writers and practical men—members of your society; Mr. Loncworts, Dr. Mosner, Dr. Frage, A. H. Ernst, J. E. Morrier, C. W. Extiorr, Wa. Resor, Jonn Sayers, T. AFFLECK, and others—the greatest number being from the pen of Mr. Loneworts ; also from Mr. Scuuman’s pamphlet, published in 1845, and a book on the same subject, by Jonw James Durovs, of Vevay, Ia., 1826 ; aided by the observations and practical experience of the writer. After all that has been done, and written, grape culture and wine- making in this country, is as yet but imperfectly understood, and it is only by experience and a free interchange of opinions, that we shall arrive at a better knowledge of it hereafter. . Our climate, and the native grapes we cultivate, differ so much from those of Europe, that the intelligent vine-dresser from the old world, finds he has much to learn in the new, and that a wide field is presented for observation, in which all must here work and think for themselves. At the time Mr. Durovsr wrote, in 1826, the Cape Grape was then the only kind cultivated in the Ohio Valley, for wine. About that time the Catawba was brought into notice as a wine grape, by Major ApLuMm, at Georgetown, D. C., and by Mr. Loxeworta, in the West; and it is now so great a favorite as to be almost the only variety planted. To these gentlemen, as public benefactors, the country owes a lasting debt of gratitude for introducing into vine- yard culture, this noble grape. (vii ) viii | PREFACE. Many improvements in grape culture, and in wine-making, have - been made since Mr. Duroun’s day—even since the publication of Mr. Scuuman’s pamphlet, in 1845, only five years ago, practical cultivators have, in some particulars, adopted other modes than those then recommended ; and it is confidently expected, that within the next five years, still greater improvements will be discovered. The business is yet in its infancy, and will require long and careful nursing to enable it to reach maturity. , With our present flattering prospects of success in this branch of home industry, i it would be improper to close these prefatory remarks without a passing tribute to the merits of the worthy pioneers in the enterprise —the Swiss settlers of Vevay, and the German vine- dressers of our own county—who, under all the disadvantages of a climate, soil, and vines unknown to them—persevered in their efforts with patient industry, until the present favorable results: have. been produced. But to Mr. Loneworrs, more than to any other man in the West, we are most indebted for our knowledge in grape culture. Mr. Loxeworrs has, within the last twenty-seven years, with unwearied zeal and a liberal expenditure of money, in numerous experiments with foreign and native grapes, succeeded in enabling himself and others, to present to the public, a“ Sparkling Catawba,” rivaling the best French Champagne, and a dry wine from the same grape, that compares favorably with the celebrated Hock wine of the Rhine. Several varieties of wine have been produced from other grapes than the Catawba, but with the exception of that made from the Cape—which is a red wine resembling Claret —it will require time to ascertain their value. From the IsabeJla, Ohio, Missouri, Norton’s Seedling, Minor’s Seedling, Lenoir, and Herbemont’s Madeira, wines have been made. of more or less vromise—samples of which may be found at the cellars of Mr. LoncwortTu, and some others. The views here given are those of many of our most intelligent vine-dressers. A difference of opinion may exist with others on some points, which time and experience alone can reconcile. R. Bucuanay. Cincinnati, Feb. 18th, 1850. . CONTENTS. THE VINEYARD. PAGE Poartom and Soil.:..:2.isssseecsersceecssceceeceserecees course 9 Preparing the ground . seas eee cec cece cccccccecesceccccecceccses LO Planting....cccceecccccccsccceccccccceccccessvccccescccscsese 10 Directions for planting Guttings in a Nwery ccc 12 Frenment of the Young Vineyard «++rerrersesercrseeeeerseres 12 Spring Pruning «-+++++++- cece cccceveccccccceccvescsscceseces LS Culture... cc .sesccoccccccccevccccccscscccccecssccceecsoseces LO Diseases, Insects, and Frosts......cseeecoce-coccscccvescccccees Ld Varieties ‘of Grapes cultivated........secccscescccecoccceceecees O23 Durability of Vineyards, etc. ..0.eessecccecccccccesccvccssscees 26 To restore Premature Decay'i in a Vineyard .....sccseecvcceceeces 20 MAKING WINE. The Wine Press .....2..cccccccccsccccccccccssecceccccsceesees Ot Gathering’ end Pring to Gap. ene ceccesererenceenccsees UO Fermentation: . 2... .c0c secs cect ee cecccecccvctevcccscessveres BO Fining Wines ....-.c.s0+ +. see e ene seeveccscecceeseveeseceseces OO Character of the Wine ........cecceccscccsccceeccsccscecesecee OD STATISTICS. Cost of Establishing a Vineyard ........cccceccescceascessceces 44 « Attending a Vineyard.......csecececcsceccesececcervess 49 Making the Wine........scccsececcescccscccesevceesees OO Probable Product per sere eee cccseneee ss slessctsseessuseceereess 50 Bale of the Wine ..2 0... cece cet c cee ccececcccecscecccccseseces OD Wine Cellars and Houses..... sa cecanvcccccesecrceseesveteseres OD Number of Acres in Cultivation in this Vicinity.............006+ 59 “ “ Bearing .......... eer ee ere rere seeecees 60 "Average Product to the Acre........cesecesscssececeeeesceseees 60 Vineyard Oulture in the United States.......sesceseccscececeess 60 American Grapes ....c.sceccecsevcecreccccvevcercesessccsesees OF (ix) x CONTENTS. Analysis of Soils.......seseseeeeeeeees eer rere es eeeeeeeen 65 Vineyard Culture in Australia ...........seceseeee seccccceeeces 68 Product of the Vine in France ........00..05- seecccccceceeccees 10° Vineyard Region in the United States .......cecccsccceceeeeence 71 APPENDIX. Falsification of Wines, by N. Longworth.......secssscssececcees 92 Fermentation of Wines, by J. Brace .....+.cecscecscccccccccveee Ud Fermenting on the Skins—J. Williamson .........seceseeseeeessLlB Foreign Grapes, by Mr. Downing...... vs eseccees scecccccccescees OL Brape Seedlings, by N. Reihl.........cccecscccccccvcccevecsees OD Grapes in Canada West......seseeseee es ccctecccccccnccssececes OO Grape Culture near Reading, Pa........sescsececsscsecvcccesers 96 Manufacture of Wine, and Rot in Grapes, by N. Longworth....... 97 Manufacture of Native Wine.......csccccccccscccccccsecccveses108 Native Wine, by Dr. Mosher.........ccccccssccccccrecccescsecs OF Native Grapes, by N. Longworth .....0.scescccecsecccccececes slOd Racking Wines, by L. Rehfuss...........cecccscseccscccccseees 10 Rot in Grapes, ete., by N. Longworth ........cccccsccccesceeess 00 Soil for a Vineyard, by J. Williamson ...........csccsccceceeees OF Spring and Summer Pruning, by Dr. Mosher .........0..se-0000- 80 Spring Pruning—Spur system, by G. Sleath .......cesceecccsseeedlT Statistics of Vineyards.........e.e.s06 sete ceeeceee sesccseeceee U3 Stemming and Mashing Grapes, by J. A. Corneau........seeee0- 11 Temperance and the Vine ........secsecesccccececcecaces eeeeee 98 To the Members of the Wine Association, by L. Rehfuss.......... 88 Vineyards about Cincinnati, by N. Longworth..........ssceeeeee 113 “ in’ Olarke County, Indiana, by T. W. Gibson.......... 116 STRAWBERRY. Preface ...... rere ee ere eer rere oe eseccoree ere cceecesscecree LLY Culture, etc., by N. Longworth. snc ceeeecscceeceecccceceses lal “ oo see ceeceeeees ta cececccecese 11183 Report of Committee to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society....... 131 “ ee 6.5) Experiment, ct, by G. W. Huntsman seceaseseeceneese 39 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. THE VINEYARD. In establishing. a Vineyard, itis a matter of much impor- tance to select the right POSITION AND SOIL. A hill side with a southern aspect is preferred, although an eastern or western exposure is nearly as good. Some have recommended the north, on account of safety from late spring frosts, but it will scarcely afford sun enough to ripen the grapes in cold, wet seasons (if the declivity is steep), and may perhaps be more subject to ‘the rot.” Any undulating surface, if dry, is preferable to a level one. The sow best suited for a vineyard, is a dry calcareous loam —with a porous subsoil—not retentive of moisture; if mixed with some gravel or smal] stones, so much the better. Some prefer a sandy soil with a gravelly substratum; as in this the grapes are less subject to rot; the juice however is not so rich,—Jacking in saccharine matter, and in dry sea- sons the vines will suffer from the drought, shedding their leaves prematurely, and preventing the grapes from ripening well. In warm, sandy soils, the fruit-buds on the: vines, if: swelled prematurely in autumn, are sometimes killed by the frosts of a severe winter. Any soil underlaid by a stiff wet clay, is to be avoided, as also wet or spongy lands. No trees should be allowed to grow within one hundred feet of the vineyard. (9) 10 ; CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. For a further illustration of this subject see Mr. William- son’s letter, in the Appendix. PREPARING THE GROUND. In autumn or early winter, dig or trench the ground all over, 2 to 2} feet deep, with the spade—this is far better than plowing—turn the top soil under; the surface will be mellowed by the frosts of winter. Wet spots in the vineyard may be drained by small stone culverts, or by what is termed a French drain, a ditch, with some loose stones thrown into it edgewise, covered with flat ones, and filled up with the earth again. Surface draining may be obtained by concave sodded avenues of 10 feet wide, and intersecting each. other at 100 or 120 feet, thus throwing the vineyard into squares of that size. . This will do for gen- tle declivities ; but steep ones must be terraced, or benched with sod or stone, which is more expensive. These benches should be as broad as _they can be made conveniently, and with a slight. inclination to the hill, that they may be drained. by stone or wooden gutters, running into the main trunks,’ to carry off the water without washing away the soil. This is important, a and requires good judgment and skill. PLANTING. Much diversity of opinion exists, as to the proper distance of planting the vines apart in the rows. Our native varieties, with their long joints, large foliage, and luxuriant growth, certainly require more room to grow than the short jointed vines of the Rhine. Hence it is supposed, that our German vine-dressers have sometimes erred, in planting too close in | this country,—3} by 4; 4 by 4; 4 by 44, &c. For steep | hill sides, 34 by 44, or 3 by 5 may answer, but for gentle | slopes 3} by 6 is close enough, and for level land, 4 by 7. - This will admit sun and air to mature the fruit, and leave a_ liberal space for the roots to grow. - PLANTING. ’ 1 e . : Lay off the vineyard carefully with a line, and put down a stick some 15 inches long, where each vine is to grow. Dig a hole about a foot deep, and plant two cuttings to each stick, in a slanting position, separated 6 or 8 inches at the bottom, and 1 inch at the top of the hole ; throw in a shovel full of rich vegetable mould, from the woods, to make the roots strike freely ;-let the top eye of the cuttings be even with the surface of the ground, and cover with half an inch of light mould, if the weather is dry. Leave the hole at the lower part about “two-thirds full, until midsummer ; then fill up. , If both the cuttings grow, take up one of them the follow- ing spring, or cut it off under ground, as but one vine should be left to each stake. ; To prepare the cuttings for planting, bury them i in the earth when pruned from the vines, and by the latter end of March, or early in April, which is the right time for planting, the buds will be so. swelled, as to make them strike root with great certainty. Each cutting should contain at least four joints, ‘and ‘be taken from wood well ripened ; if a small part of the old wood is left on the lower end, so much the better; cut them off close below the lower joint, and about an inch above the upper. Set out some extra cuttings in a nursery to replace failures in the vineyard. Some good vine-dressers have recommended planing with roots one or two years old, but the experience of others is in favor of planting at once with cuttings in the vineyard ; the vine being never disturbed by removal makes the more thrifty and permanent plant. Of course the planting should only be made when the ground is warm and dry, or mellow. Persons residing at a distance from vineyards, had better procure roots one year old, as the cuttings are apt to suffer from transportation. 12 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING CUTTINGS IN A NURSERY. When pruned from the vines, the cuttings should be tied in bundles of 100 or 200, and placed in a cool cellar, until the ground is prepared for planting. Dig a trench, in spaded ground, about a foot deep, slanting to the surface, the length of the cuttings. Place the cuttings 5 or 6 inches apart, the top eye just above ground. Cover the lower joints with good rich mould, and fill up with the earth thrown from the trench. Keep them clear of weeds in the summer, and in dry weather water occasionally. TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG VINEYARD. The first year, keep the ground clean and free from weeds, with the hoe; many use the plow. as being more expe- ditieus- and economical, but the more careful vine-dressers whe can afford it, never cultivate with the plow, using only the two-pronged German hoe, made especially for the purpose. The earth should be stirred around the young vines, two or three times during the season, to promote their growth ; superfluous shoots must be pulled off, leaving but one or two to grow, at first, and but one eventually. In the spring, cut the young vine down to a single eye, or bud ; at first, if two are left for greater safety, take off one, afterward ; drive a stake six or seven feet long firmly to each plant. Locust or cedar is preferred, but oak or black walnut, charred at the end, driven into the earth, or coated with coal tar, will, it is said, last nearly as long. Keep the young vine tied neatly to the stake with rye or wheat straw—pick off all suckers, and let but one stalk or cane grow. The vineyard must be kept clean of weeds, and the young vines hoed as before. The second spring after planting, cut down to two or three eyes, or joints, and the éhird year to four or five; pinching off laterals, tieing up, and hoeing the vines as recommended SPRING PRUNING. 13 above. Replant from the nursery, where the cuttings have failed to strike root in the vineyard. The third year, the vines will produce a few grapes, some- times enough to pay the expenses of attending them. Train two canes to the stake this year, take off laterals, and keep well hoed. . The vineyard having now commenced to bear, may be considered as fairly established ; and for the fourth and suc- eessive years, the following treatment is generally adopted. SPRING PRUNING. This is usually done from the middle of February to the first week in March. Some prune in January, and Mr. Scuv- man has recommended November and December, as the proper time. No serious injury to the vines, by winter prun- ing, has yet been discovered. The writer pruned many of his vines in November and December, last year, and they escaped unscathed through the hardest winter known in this climate for many years. Pruning, the fourth year, requires good judgment, as the standard stem, or stalk, has to be established. Select the best shoot or cane of last year, and cut it down to six or eight joints, and fasten it to the adjoining stake in a horizontal position, or bend it over in the form of a hoop or bow, and tie it to its own stake. The ties should be of wil- low. This is the bearing wood. The other cane, cut down to a spur of two or three eyes, to make bearing wood for the next season. Mr. Scouman remarks in his treatise, ‘‘ There are various methods of training adopted. Some tie the shoot up to the stake with two or three ties at proportionate distances. “The greater part of the German vine-planters make cir- cular bows with three ties, and another mode is to make half- circle bows. I recommend the latter as the best and proceed to describe it. 14 CUIAURE OF THE GRAPE. ' “Give the shoot the first tie on the stake nine inches from the ground, and the second, nine inches above it; then bow it over to the neighboring stake in a horizontal position, and give it the third tie to that stake, at the top of the vine.’’. In the succeeding, and all subsequent years, cut away the old bearing wood, and form the new bow, or arch, from the best branch of the new wood of the last year, leaving a spur as before, to produce bearing wood for the coming year, thus keeping the old stalk of the vine down to within eighteen to twenty-four inches from the ground. The vine is then always within reach, and control. - The experience of the writer is in favor of the bow system ; bending the top of the branch in a circular form, to within three or four inches ‘of its stake, and- fastening it, with a wil- low tie, or twig, to the stake, —having made two ties pre- viously, one at the lower part, the other at the middle of the bow. From this bow the crop of grapes is to be produced, and often a bearing cane for the next year. The spur will bear a few bunches of grapes, but the bearing wood, for the ensuing year, is generally trained from it. Mr. Stzats has adopted a new method of training, which will be found in the Appendix. The best time for tying the vines'to the stake is when the sap begins to swell the buds and make them look white— from the middJe of March to the first week in April. Then in damp or wet weather, the bow can be formed by a slight twist of the branch, and fastened to the stake without breaking. This requires to be done carefully. See the Appendix for an excellent article on spring and sum- mer pruning from Dr. S. Mosuer, President of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society. Should a vine be lost: after the vineyard is in bearing, it can be replaced by a layer from the adjoining vine, which SUMMER PRUNING. 15 is a much better mode than planting a young vine. The layers may be put down late in summer, but spring is preferred. Cultivate the yellow, and the osier willow, to make ties for the spring pruning. They will grow in any wet place. SUMMER PRUNING. Consists in removing suckers, and pinching off all lateral shoots, leaving but two stalks or canes to be trained for bearing wood the ensuing year, and pinching off the ends of the bearing branches, about the time of blossoming, some two or three joints beyond, or above the last blossom bunch ; pull no leaves off the bearing branches, and but very few from any other. As the vines grow, tie them neatly to the stakes, with rye straw (some use grass), and when they reach the top, train them from one stake to the other, until the fruit has nearly matured ; the green ends may then be broken off. If this is done too early, there is danger of forcing out the fruit- bearing buds for the next year, and of injuring the grapes in ripening. . Some of our cultivators are averse to removing any lateral branches rom the fruit-bearing wood, — merely pinching off their ends. Others adopt close pruning, in summer, and even taking off some of the leaves of the bearing branches. - Both these extremes.are wrong. The experience of the writer is in favor of removing such lateral shoots as appear unnecessary to the growth or ripening of the fruit—to pinch off the ends of the bearing branches two, three, or four joints beyond the upper bunch of grapes—according to the number it bears—to take off all laterals from the bearing wood intended for the ensu- . ing year; and not to break off the ends of these branches at all (as has heretofore been done about the time the grapes began to color). The leaves are the dungs of the plant, and while it is necessary to remove suckers and laterals, to throw strength into the fruit and the bearing branches for next year, 2 16 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. & liberal supply of leaves should be left for the maturity or both. To show spring and summer pruning, the above figures are inserted. Fig.1. Thevine second year before pruning. Fig. 2. “ “ third “ ee “ Fig.3. “ “ fourth “ pruned. Fig.4. “ “ fourth “ summer training. _ OULTURE. The vineyard must be kept perfectly clean from weeds and grass, and should be hoed twice during the spring and sum- mer. From the middle of April to the first week in May, is recommended as the best time for spring hoeing, and August for summer. The cultivator or the plow is less expensive, but the vines and roots are in danger of being injured by that mode of cul- ture ; therefore the hoe is preferred by those who can afford it. It has been recommended by some writers, to cut off the roots of the vines near the surface of the ground, and for four or five inches under, that the roots, when the vines are young, may be well established at a proper depth below. By others, this plan is thought to be injurious. The s DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 17 majority, however, prefer cutting off the surface roots for the first three or four years. About every third year, put in manure, by opening a trench the width of a spade, and four or five inches deep. Above and near each row, throw in two or three inches of well- rotted manure, and cover up with the earth. Another plan adopted, is to run a furrow with the plow, put in manure, and cover over, either with the plow or hoe. Others, again, scatter manure over the surface, and dig it in. An intelligent cultivator, J. A. Connzau, remarks : ‘“‘ High manuring is generally admitted to be injurious to the vinous quality of the Grape; or, in other words, it accelerates a larger growth of wood, and a more attractive looking fruit, while the more essential qualities of the grape for Wine- making, are very much deteriorated. No substance should ever be used which has a tendency to ferment, or which, in undergoing a chemical change in the soil, would form an acid or a salt of a highly stimulating nature. Vegetable manures, bones, &c., may be used to advantage.” Well rotted sta- ble yard manure has been used moderately by the writer, with good effects to the plants and the fruit, and without any per- ceptive injury to the ‘vinous quality of the grape.” Dr. L. Renrvuss, President of the “‘Wine Growers’ Asso- ciation,”’ strongly recommends a light dressing of wood ashes to be dug in with the spring hoeing, to supply to the earth the alkalies taken up by the Grape, and to neutralize acidity in the soil, and consequently in the Wine. DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. The ‘‘rot,’’ as it is termed, is the great evil, especially m cultivating the Catawba. This takes place usually in the latter end of June or early in July, Dr. Warper says, “about the period of stoning,’’ r “hardening of the seed,’’ after continued heavy rains, and 18 CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. hot sweltering suns. It strikes, something like the rust in wheat, suddenly, and with the same disastrous effect to the crop. Various modes of prevention have been recommended, but none yet tried have proved effectual. The cause is supposed to be an excess of water about the roots of the vine, in any clay subsoil retentive of moisture; sandy soils with a gravelly substratum, are generally exempt from this disease. The opinions of Mr. Ex1sorr, Mr. Lonaworrs, and the Fruit Committee of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, on this subject, are quoted. Mr. Exuiorr, in the Horticulturist, Vol. 2, p. 314, says: ‘The rot for the past three years has followed excessive rains in July and August. Dr. Fiaee, two years since, found a small part of a vineyard where the rot was very slight; (an experiment made by the writer of this Treatise), this had not been worked after the spring, and the ground was in such a state, that most of the rains passed off.on the surface. Vines planted in rows eight feet apart, in one instance, were found not to be affected with rot, but very slightly. ... . The subject has been but little investigated, and therefore all can speculate.” In the same article, page 319, Mr. Lonewortu says: ‘It is of late years only, that the rot has been so destructive among our grapes; one thing is certain, if we had little or no rain after the grapes are fairly forward, we should see but little of the rot ; certain it is, it is continued rains, followed by a hot sun, that causes us to look out for the appearance of the rot.”’ In the able report of Dr. Mosnzr, Mr. Ernst, and Mr. Kipp, the Fruit Committee of the Society for 1848, it is re- marked: ‘‘ Some vineyards were injured by the wet weather in July, causing the grapes to rot and fall off: this, however, seems to have been confined to situations where the air had not a free circulation, allowing fogs and vapors to remain-too DISEASES, INBECTS, AND FROSTS. 19 - long upon the vines in hot weather, as well as to a tenacious, clayey soil; on dry and mote airy situations, and where the ground was thoroughly drained, the crop has been fine and fair.” H. W. 8. Oxeveranp, of Burlington, N. J., who has a vineyard of two to three acres, and who, Mr. Dowmine says, is one of the most reliable horticulturists in the State, recom- mends covering the whole surface of the vineyard with shavings, leaves, or coarse grass, to prevent the ravages of inseots, and diseases of the fruit—see Horticulturist, Vol. 3, p. 118.—In the same Vol., p. 121: ‘A Jerseyman,” in summer pruning, put the leaves and young stems in a trench at the root of the vines—sprinkled gypsum on them, and covered over with earth. This was done at the suggestion of Mr. Downtne, who strongly recommends it to vine-dress- ers on the Ohio, with a request that upon trial they ‘‘ report progress.” And at page 161, of the same Vol., “B.,” ‘of Chester Co., Pa.,”” recommends “special manures,” as a certain spe- cific—having tried with success, a mixture of guano, gypsum, and wood ashes. Mr. Dowmine says to “J. D. Lecarg, Aiken, 8. C.,” in the same Vol., p. 255: “‘ We note your experiment with ashes to prevent rot, but you must not decide against it with one year’s trial. It has been found effectual here at the north, .when used along with gypsum.” Two years ago, the writer of this Treatise tried ashes ona small scale, but without Gypsum; a trench was dug above two rows, the width of a spade, some four inches deep, and two or three inches of leached ashes put in and covered over with earth. No beneficial effect was perceived. The two rows were slightly affected by the rot, as were those adjoining. Hoeing in autumn, and not stirring the ground at all in the spring and summer, but keeping the weeds cut down, and 20 CULTURE OF THE GRAIE. the surface smooth, that the water may not sink, but pass off rapidly, has also been spoken of as a probable remedy against rot. Some persons even recommend letting the weeds grow: to say the least of it, this would be slovenly culture. With a view to test the advantages of wide planting, and high training, in preventing the rot, Mr. Wrrx has planted on his farm, near Cheviot, eleven acres in the Catawba grape, twenty feet apart in the rows each way, and the vines are trained to locust stakes twelve feet high. Last year they produced fruit for the first time, and were entirely free from rot. But here it must be remarked, that the jirst crop, from young vines, is generally but little affected by that disease. Mr. Werk also cultivated the ground between the rows, for other purposes. In 1850 there was scarcely any rot, and crops averaged about four hundred gallons to the acre. In 1851 the frost on the second of May destroyed two-thirds of the grape-buds, and the crop of grapes, a very small one, was almost entirely clear of rot. The past two seasons were drier than the four or five preceding them. That the rot, or a similar disease of the grape, existed in the earlier ages, may be inferred from the following passage in Malachi, ec. iii, v. 11—‘‘ Neither shall the vine cast her fruit, before the time, in the field.” The reader is referred to two articles from the pen of Mr. Lonewort#, in the Appendix, for his views on this subject. Oct. 21, 1848, and Feb. 18th, 1850. The ‘mildew’? comes earlier in the season, when the grapes are about one-fourth grown, blighting occasionally a few bunches, and sometimes only the lower end. It is neither common nor destructive. The Isabella is much more subject to mildew than the Catawba, and the Cape is seldom affected by this disease. The “‘speck,’’ by some persons mistaken for the rot, and DISEASES, INSECTS, AND FROSTS. 21 by others called the bitter rot, is a large circular spot on the side of the grape, looking as if caused by the sting of an insect, and extending to the seed on one side of the berry, while the other is uninjured ; but owing to this wound, or speck, the juice will be bitter. This has been attributed to the action of the sun on the fruit when covered with rain or dew-drops. The vine is so remarkably healthy, and of such luxuriant growth in almost any proper soil, that diseases at the root are almost unknown here. Mr. Scuumawn states that a white worm resembling the peach-tree worm, is sometimes found . eating off the young roots of the vine, and Mr. Morrrmr has also found and destroyed it— but it is rarely met with in vineyards. The sects found most annoying, are a green worm that feeds on the vines just as the fruit-buds appear, and before they blossom, eating off the tender bunches, and doing great’ mischief if not promptly destroyed. The Canker, or Measur- tng Worm (of which the above may be a variety) is some- times found on the leaves and young shoots. The Curculio, so destructive to the plum, has occasionally been found on the grapes; they can be readily shaken down on a sheet, by a sudden blow on the stake, and destroyed. If ever per- mitted to get domesticated in a vineyard, this insect would be immensely destructive. The Rose-bug, Dr. SHater says, has been observed in some vineyards in Kentucky, but it is rarely met with here. For the last two years, an insect resembling the rose-bug, but smaller, and of the same family (melolontha), has been discovered in several vineyards in: this vicinity, eating off the upper surface of the leaf, and causing the veinous fibers left to look like a sieve. The writer destroyed those in his vine- yard, last year, by shaking them off the vines into ~buckets partly filled with strong lime-water. This was accomplished 22 . CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. in a week, killing three hundred to four hundred thousand from six acres, at an expense of twenty-seven dollars. Next year they will scarcely be so numerous in this vine- yard. A large brown beetle, or bug, will frequently sting the young tender branches of the vine in summer, making a wound that subjects the branch to be broken off by strong winds. They can be watched and picked off, late in the evening or early in the morning. All horticulturists‘are familiar with the spring and early fall caterpillar, and of course, would not permit either to get a foothold in the vineyard. Mr. N. W. Taarouer, of Chillicothe, sent last summer to the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, specimens of a small variety of curculio, which he had found to injure his grapes, like the plum, by depositing ova. Frost. Late spring frosts have some years, but not often, been highly injurious, especially to vineyards near small streams of water, damp woods, or in cold situations. The most severe within