How to Brew with three-fourths Barley to One Fourth Malt

How to Brew with three-fourths Barley to One Fourth Malt

THE . FARMERS’ REAL FRIEND, SHEWING HOW TO BREW WITH THREE-FOURTHS BARLEY TO ONE-FOURTH MALT; SHEWING, ALSO, THE MALT-TAX TO BE NO TAX AT ALL TO THOSE WHO UNDERSTAND WHAT 2 THEY ARE ABOUT, I) 2 ¢ BY A BREWER OF 25 YEARS’ STANDING. LONDON: GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS, PATERNOSTER.-ROW. 1847. Dattized ty GOO . Cc TO THE FARMERS OF ENGLAND. Eeonomy is the order of the day, and one of the best orders it is too. He, therefore, who lends his aid to teach economy: in any way, may fairly lay claim to thé goud will and more substantial patronage of his fellow men. This object I have endeavoured to effect,’ and although the book is but alittle book, i¢ teaches a great deal. The experi- euce of twenty-five years is here compressed into scarcely us many pagés—and, what is of more con- sequence, these few pages shew clearly how double the number of pounds sterling may be saved in a very short space of time. Although the malt-tax may be disagreeable in its operation, it is of little use to complain about it. The best, and, indeed, the only remedy is to be found in my instructions, and if you follow them you may have the pleasure ( ii.) of laughing at the malt-tax over a tankard of your own sparkling ale—ale equal to that produced by malt itself, and yet containing only a comparatively small portion of it. If the tax remains unrepealed, the fault rests with yourselves—neither the Govern- ment nor any one else is to blame. T have long desired: to give this information to the Public. My practice in different families, during a great part of my life, has enabled me to prove its utility. Indeed, I could refer to Noblemen and Gentlemen for whom I have brewed, as additional guarantees of its value. In presenting it before you at the present time, I am influenced only by the wish to do you good, and to save your pockets. Read the book and judge for yourselves. One trial will satisfy you that you never purshased so much valuable information at so little cost. INDEX. GeneRaL Roves. PAGE PAGE Of Water.......... 6 | Of the Copper .... 9 — Malt........... 6 Mash-Tub.. 10 — Barley.......... 7 Underback.. 11 — Hops........... 8 Coolers .... 11 Directions ror Brewine. PAGE PAGE Of Mashing....... 14 | Of Barm or Yeast.. 24 — Boiling........ 19 | — Tunning or Bar- — Cooling and Fer- relling ...... 26 menting .... 21 | — Cellars........ 29 PracticaL Instructions on GuaGiNe. PAGE PA Square Utensils .... 31 | Circular Vessels.... 33 A Tasie ov tHe Angas or CirciEs, IN Aug ‘Gaxtons, PAGE From 20 to 60 inches, Winchester measure .... 35 Journa or a Day’s Brewine, With one bushel of Malt and four of Barley... "37 — two do. and six do. .... 38 — six do. and eighteen do. .,.. 39 i, Po. aye aah FARMERS OF ENGLAND! Ir was the custom of your fore- fathers to brew their own beer. That custom has long been on the decline, and why? Because those who have the management of brewing understand but little of the process. The beer which they make, not being of good quality, either changes off or be- comes ropy. Such will never be ( 4) the case with those who attend to my instructions. These will teach you three things :—/irst, so to mash your goods as to change the farina or flour of the grain in- to a good saccharine or sweet- wort :—second, to boil it so as to obtain and retain (in the first wort) all the best quality of the hops :—and, third, to ferment it according to the time you wish to keep it before drinking. I have also added directions for the ma- nagement of it, if required for immediate use. Ale brewed ac- cording to this plan has been found, after having been. kept —_—>— Ooo ( 5 ) eight or nine months, to be much stronger, and to contain much more spirit, than ale brewed en- tirely from malt. N.B. Brewers are bound by law to use only malt and hops, but private individuals may brew with what materials they please. —— GENERAL RULES. InN every case you must pay particular attention to your heats,’ - or you cannot possibly succeed. ( 6 ) ueics OF WATER. * Phe best of any is rain-water, fresh caught off slates or tiles :— next, river water, or water out of a pond which cattle do not fre- quent :—lastly, well water, if of a soft nature, such as comes out of chalk or loam. When the well-water is hard, and comes out of gravel or clay, expose it to the air (before using it) for two days in summer, and a week in winter. A little bran thrown into it will help to soften it still more. 7 | aribes Orb aug wit. OF MALT. Phe -algus: of ‘malt being: good (7) are, its being of ‘a bright colour, with a plump mellow body, and the spire about three-fourths; of the way up the back of the ¢orn, ———e OF BARLEY. The best is of a bright colour, with a full, kind, mellow body. It is presumed, however, that by brewing according to my plan, farmers will need to use only the secondary or even the inferior sorts, as they will answer the purpose very well. It is neces- sary, however, to remember, that the better the barley the more beer it will make, and the worse (8) the quality of the barley the less beer it will make of the same strength. From nine to twelve gallons of strong ale, or from twenty to thirty gallons of good beer may be made from each bushel of good quality. One eck of malt with one bushel of arley will make fifty gallons of good small beer. OF HOPS. A proof of hops being good is the absence of all brown colour -—a plenty of yellow flowery dust —and a grateful aromatic odour when rubbed between the hands. (9) OF GRINDING. The sooner Malt and Barley are used, after being ground, the better. Malt ought to be ground into about quarters of the corn, ora little less. Barley ought to be ground quite coarse—that is, it ought to be cut into little bits like oatmeal. For this purpose a steel mill will be found useful. OF THE COPPER. Let it be cleaned perfectly bright. For this purpose use the ( 10) chips: or flakes of iron which fald from the blacksmith’s anvil.’ -If the copper ean be so placed as. to. run into the mash-tub, the better. OF THE MASH-TUB. If you have a false bottom, there ought to be a descending shoot, for the liquor to run down under the false bottom and find its way up through the goods. All the upper part of the shoot should be perforated, and fur- nished with slides, to be put in or taken qut,.as occasion may require. v.If' you ‘have ‘no false bottom (aL) wse an upright : huck-muck,: dr basket, to come. above the mash} and:to be fastened down to the bottom with nails, se that it can- not rise up. — ee OF THE UNDERBACK. Let it be so placed as not to be exposed to the draughts of cold air during the time the wort. is running into it. 4 — 4 nie oud fel OF THE COOLERS: oe cote, a rt Place them so that the air mpy (12) — circulate freely under as well as over them. N.B. All the utensils should be well scalded the day before brewing, and again on the brew- ing-day, if requisite. Supposing now all the utensils to be in good, sweet, and clean condition—the malt, barley, hops and liquor (water) ready,—it is a good practice to light the fire over night, and bank it up with ashes: this saves an hour or two in the next day’s work. Endea- vour to be up by four o’clock in the morning, if it be winter time, ( 18 ) (for you can always cool your wort during the day, at that sea- son of the year,) but in summer it is advisable not to begin until nine or ten in the morning, so as to bring the second wort out of the copper late in the evening: then let the third wort just boil up and remain in the copper all night, after you have banked up the fire. This enables you to use all your coolers for the best worts —and if you cannot get the first wort cool enough, let them both remain in the coolers all night. ( 14) . DIRECTIONS for BREWING ONE QUARTER, viz:— * Two bushels of Malt, and Six bushels of Barley, with Eight lbs. of good Hops. N.B. The quantity may be increased or diminished to any extent, by taking into considera- tion the measures of ale and corn. OF MASHING. First Mash. . If you have a thermometer take your first heat at 150: if not, put, ( 1 ) forty-four gallons of boiling li quor into your mash-tun witl twenty-two gallons of cold liquor. then stir it, and, as soon as you can, introduce the two bushels of malt: continue to stir it until it is all wetted, then introduce the barley grit or meal, stirring it un- til it is well wetted and mixed with the malt—and cover up. Nearly fill your copper with li- quor, and get it to boil. After the mash has stood three-quarters of an hour, to every six gallons of boiling liquor in your copper add one gallon of cold liquor, then stir it and add fifty gallons of this liquor to your mash, ‘(this heat ought to be taken at 190 F.) stir it for three-quarters of an hotr, taking ‘care to keep your stirrers ( 16 ) under the surface of the mash, and keep your mash as free from cold air as you can. Cover it up and let it stand for two hours, and then let run. You should first, however, put a few hops into the underback, for the wort to run upon. If the wort runs thick return it until it runs clear. _ When the mash-tun bottom is put down, previous to mashing, the slides ought to be placed in- side the shoot, and when you let the first wort run they should be taken out, so as to allow the wort that lies on the top of the mash to pass down the shoot, under the false bottom, and out at the tap. After the first wort has done 17) running, put in the slides again, and let them remain in during the rest of the day’s brewing. After your mash is well mixed, stir slowly, so as to keep it all in gentle motion. To prevent it cooling more than can be avoided, the heat in the mash-tun ought to be from 140 to 150 F. for there is a principle in malt which will act on the barley, and convert it into saccharine matter or sweet- wort in the mash-tun, just as it acts on the malt floor. This pe- culiarity was first discovered by two celebrated French Chemists, M. M. Payen and Persoz: they named it diastesé, and assert that it will change two thousand times its own weight of meal in- to saccharine matter. ( 18 ) If you use an upright huck- muck or basket, that will let it away. Second Mash. Heat 185, or one gallon of cold liquor to five gallons of boiling liquor. Put forty-two gallons of this liquor on your mash, and stir it again for three-quarters of an hour. Cover it up, and let it stand for two hours and a quarter ---then let it run. Third Mash. Heat 170, or one gallon of cold to three of boiling liquor, mixed together in the copper. (‘to ) ' Put the quantity of liquor ac- cotding to the quantity of small beer you wish to make; for in- stance, if you wish to make onl one barrel, put in forty-two gal- Ions, and so on in proportion. Stir it for ten minutes, and then cover itup. If you want a little more at any one of the mashes, throw a few gallons of liquor over the mash, to make up. SS OF BOILING. Boil the first wort very slowly for half an hour, with the hops, keeping them stirred. - Let_ it stand in the copper with the hops ( 20 ) for three-quarters of an hour, and then strain off. Second wort. Boil one hour with the hops. Let it stand in the copper with the hops, half an hour more, to infuse, then strain off. Third wort. Boil it fast for one hour, with the hops, if you do not intend to let it remain in the copper all night: if you wish it to remain, put only half of your hops into the copper over- night, and the rest on the follow- ing morning, just to wash the goodness of the malt out of them. In straining off, endeavour to have one cooler above the other, so that the settlement may re- main in the first cooler, and when ( 21 ) you have done brewing, put this settlement on your hops, and it will come away quite clear. —— OF COOLING. Endeavour to cool your wort as soon as you can. You will forward the cooling by keeping the wort moving about in the coolers. OF FERMENTING. Put the first two worts together at a heat of 70 degrees. ff you ( 22 ) have no thermometer, let the heat be, in winter, nearly that of new milk : in the summer, rather cool- er. Add yeast according to the time you wish it to keep before it is used. If it be summer-time and you wish to bring it forward soon, add two quarts of good yeast to this quantity, which ought to be about ninety-six gal- lons. Let it work up toa good head, and keep on working until you are satisfied, wpon tasting it, that it is changed nearly as much as you wish it to be, when you want it for use. Take off the yeast as close as possible, and draw off the beer, or take it out with a bowl until you get near the bottom, when you must pour it off as clear as you can, without ( 23 ) disturbing the sediment, and tun it. In winter, keep your ale, while fermenting, im a warm room, where there is a little fire. Third wort. Put three half- pints of good yeast to each bar- rel, and when it has risen toa good head, cleanse it or tun it. In fermenting, ifthe beer comes on too fast, add a bottle or small cask of cold liquor out of the well, and skim some of the yeast off; or, separate it for a short time, and afterwards put it together again. If it should not come on fast enough, put a bottle or small cask or two of boiling hot liquor into it, or make a fire so as to increase the heat of the place: then take some more fresh yeast, a little of the tun, and a quarter - ( 24 ) of a pound of wheat flour to a barrel—work them well up toge- ther ina pail: put this mixture in a warm place, and when it is well risen, pour it into your fer- menting tun, but do not stir it. Cover up, and then follow the instructions for tunning. ——— OF BARM OR YEAST. There is so much difference in the qualities of water with which ale is brewed, that it is almost impossible, without actual prac- tice, to say what quantity of yeast will do. We may lay it down as arule, however,—/irst, a ( 25 ) that the softer the water, the less the quantity of yeast required : and the harder the water, the greater the quantity necessary :— second, the greater the heat, at the beginning, the less will be the quantity of yeast—the colder it is, the more need of yeast :— third, the richer the wort, and the more it approaches to a good, clean, sweet on the palate, the more yeast will be wanted. In brewing small quantities a barrel of rich wort will require a quart of good yeast; in large quantities one pint only. For small beer and weak worts one- half of the above quantities will suffice. ( 26 ) OF TUNNING OR BARRELLING. When casks have been empty in the cellar for some time, the heads should be taken out and well cleaned with scalding water, and when the heads are replaced they should be scalded again. If this cannot be done, put them in soak with four pails of cold water to each barrel, for three or four days before brewing; shaking them and changing their posi- tion daily. When you have finished brew- ing, fill the copper with water and make it boil, and scald all the barrels. After they are scald- ed drive in the corks, and you ( 27 ) will be able to see, when the steam is gone off, whether they are thoroughly clean. If they are not, they must be scalded again ;—for unless particular at- tention is paid to the store casks, the flavour of the ale will be spoiled. Every vessel used in brewing ought to be scalded out the day after brewing, then made perfectly dry and put away; or covered with clean cold water and a little lime, and changed frequently. When the barrels are in good condition, and the ale fit for tun- ning, if they are standing-up casks, put the spurge or top cork in, and let the bung be out at the top—then fill the casks quite full, so that the yeast may come up on ( 28 ) the head: this yeast must be taken off frequently, and the cask kept quite full. If they are lying down easks, let them be kept filled up four or five times the first day :—then three times every day afterwards, until they have done working. As soon as the head of the beer sinks, scrape all the yeast off round the bung-hole, and bung it up with a few fresh hops which have been previously soaked in beer. Leave the peg- hole open or put lightly in for a few days, after which bung tight- ly, only giving vent in case the barrel is in danger of bursting. If you want your ale or beer for immediate use, clean a cask and rack it nearly full, then fine ( 29 ) it, and it will be fit for use in twelve hours. Finines are made from Isin- glass dissolved in stale beer or vinegar. From a pint to a quart is necessary for one barrel. Sole skins dried and soaked in vine- gar or stale beer will answer the purpose as well. OF CELLARS. A dry under-ground cellar, without a circulation of air through it, is by {far the best. When the cellaris damp let the air circulate through it as much as possible. I remember two ( 30 ) cellars at the house of a Noble- man, for whom I brewed :—one for table-beer, which had a good circulation of air, kept the beer well; the other, from which the air was excluded, always gave the ale kept in it a disagreeable nauseous taste. This was caused by the gases of the damp cellar acting on the yeast. When you cannot have an under-ground cel- lar, a thatched one is the most desirable, being the coolest in summer and warmest in winter. ( 31 ) PRACTICAL INSTRUC- TIONS ON GUAGING. Square Utensils. RULE. (We may reckon a gallon to every two square feet, one inch deep.) Multiply the length by the breadth, and divide by 2 for the contents at one inch deep: and multiply that by the depth for the contents of the whole. Example Ist. Suppose a cooler to be 12 feet long by 6 feet broad, and 6 inches deep: Multiply 12 length by 6. breadth ——e 2|72 36 (82 ) 36 gallons at 1 inch deep multiply by 6 inches (depth of cooler] 216 gall. contents of whole 2nd. Suppose a square fer- menting tun to be 4 feet 6 inches long, 4 feet wide, and 50 inches deep. ft. in. 4 6 length 4 width 2|18 0 9 gallons to an inch 50 ~— depth 450 contents of whole ( 33 ) Of Circular Vessels. RULE. Take the diameter at 6 inches from the bottom, and find the contents by looking into the table of areas of circles, in ale gallons, and that will be the contents at one inch. Multiply this by the number of inches up to 12; then take the diameter at 18 inches, and find its contents as above: that will be the contents at every inch from 12 to 24: and so on to the whole height of the tub. Example :—The first 12 inches. ‘all. 8 6. 4 [contents at 1 in. ta- multiply by 12 ken at 6 in. up] 76 . 8 contents at 12 inches ( 34) The second 12 inches. . 5 . 3 [contents at 1 in, taken 12. 18 in. up.] 63.6 [contns fr. 12 to 24 in,] add 76.8 contents of first 12 in. ———, 140.4 contents of the whole Min — \ Diameter 44, contents 5.3 atl inch Diameter 48, contents 6.4 atl inch a A TABLE Of the Areas of Circles, in Ale Gallons From 20 to 60 inches, Winchester measure. Diameter Diameter in inches gallons in inches gallons 20; 1.11 41 | 4.68 21 | 1.22 42 | 4.91 22 | 1.34 43 | 5.14 23 | 1.47 44 | 5.39 24 | 1.60 45 | 5.63 25 | 1.74 46 | 5.89 26 | 1.88 47 | 6.15 27 | 2.03 48 | 6.41 28 | 2.18 49 | 6.68 29 | 2.34 50 | 6.96 30 | 2.50 ol | 7.24 31 | 2.67 52 | 7.53 ' $2 | 2.85 53 | 7.82 33 ; 3.03 54 | 8.12 34 | 3.21 55 | 8.42 35 | 3.41 56 | 8.73 36 | 3.60 57 | 9.04 37 | 3.81 58 | 9.36 38 | 4.02 59 | 9.69 39 | 4.23 60 {10.02 40 | 4.45 ( 36 } Suppose a copper or other cir- cular vessel to be 24 inches over, and 25 inches deep, by referring. to the table at 24 in, diameter 1.60 gall. 25 inches deep 8 00 32 O Contents 40.00 gallons. 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I have now explained to you how to proceed to insure good Ale: one thing remains to be observed, and this you must pay particular attention to. When Ale is intended to be kept a great great length of time, slow fermentation and early tunning must be your rule and guide. CAUTION. Never attempt to brew with a com- mon huck-muck ; if you do, you may not be able to get your Wort from the Goods.