Historical Document · 1768
Every Man His Own Brewer or A Compendium of the English Brewery
- brewing
Historical Document · 1768
wa Every Man his own Brewer; E _ OR, A 8 se*°COMPENDIUM . OF THE ENGLISH BREWERY. - €ONTAINING . The Beft Inftru@tions for the Choice of Hops, Ma tt, and WareER; and for the Right Ma- nagement of the Brewinc UTENSILS. LIKEWISE, : ‘Fhe Moff Approved Methods of Brewing Lonpon Portsr and Ate. Of Brewing Ambar, Burton, Western and Oat Ates. Of Good Taser Beer, and MarLsorovcnu, DorcHesTsrR, Nor- TINGHAM, and BrisTo. BEERs. AN D Of manufacturing Pure Malt Wines. Of Fermenta- tion; Cafual Diftemperature in Brewing, with the Caufe and Remedy. The Theory of Britith Fruits, as applied to the Improvement of Malt Liquors. Of Air; its Properties and Effeéts on Malt.Liquor. Of the Tuermomerer, its Ufe and Application in Brewery. Of Fire, and its Aétion on Malt and Vinous Extraéts. ; Fogether with & Variety of Maxims and OpservaTions deduced from Theory and Praétice. And fome Ufeful Hints to the Diftillery, for Extra&ting a Fine Spirit from Malt and other Ingredients. . The Whole Illuftrated by Several EXPERIMENTS. By aGENTLEMAN, lately retired from the Brewing Bufinefs. — L-O ND ON: Printed for the Aurnor: And Sold by J. Aumon, oppofite Burlington Houfe, in Piccadilly ; and Meff. Rosinson and Roserts, in Pater-nofter Row. MDCCLXVIII. a E PBBLIC LIBRARY - RES445B cf m2 4 0OCOk PREFACE, ALT liquors, though of greas antiquity, were never known in any confiderable degree of perfection » -but in England, and this perhaps in a > great meafure owing to our having the = Bet materials, and ufing them properly, in-the preparing of our Malt and Hops, with Coke, Culm, or Cannel coal, nei- ther of which are the produce of any " other country, and if imported from hence,, efteemed too dear for the purpofe. A3 An Hi 06The PREFACE. In the fouthern parts of Europe, malt Kiquors are very rarely attended to; and: in the northern, where much ufed, the malt and hops are cured with ftraw, furze, or other fuch dry vegetables as emit a difagreeable fmoke, and when fteeped in the mafh-tun, give the liquor a tincture extremely difguftful to an Eng- lith palate; and I fancy there is, befides, ‘ fome very eminent defect in their mode of brewing, and management ¢fteg be- ing brewed: for although J am a ftran- ger to their methods, I am not (0 to the _tafte of their beer in various parts of the - north, and from that tafte conclude of ‘their method, and conceive them much fach kind of brewers, as Xenophon, in his return from Perfia with the remains. of the ten thoufand Greeks found in Ar- menia: his account of their corn- wines. ds, *¢ That it was in cifterns in their cel- dars, and their manner of drinking it was by fuétion through reeds, perhaps only an extract from the corn, fimply, with- -out any farther manufacture; as, like our oat-ale, to be fpeedily drank ;. or, as. has been ufual, until of late years, in - Scotland, The PREFACE. iii Scotland, to anfwver the purpofe of a few days.” js England, fo far.as Cafar was a judge ofthis matter, fomething more muit have been done to their corn, drank by the Britons in that early age; for he fays, we had plenty’ of vines for grapes, but oply ufed them for our arbors; ‘ang that their corn-wine was in his opinion Much preferable to that made from the grape, as ip refpeGed the human confti- Eution: from whence one would be apt $o conclude, beer was then made to fome degree of excellence. ‘fhat it was in ‘ great yogue as early as the conqueft, we are well informed, and the general drink of the higher rank of the people, and ‘would be fo ftill, did not certain circum- ftances intercept that courfe, by the va- Frying our order of food, from that which ‘was fimple and plain, to mixt difhes, and high fauces, which require liquors more light ne Sharp to properly digeft : ee ate ence an affection for thin: wines, of wine and water, Claret, Old Hock, Rhe- | nifh, &c. have affumed the place of beer in moft genteel families ; and in the oe fe Tee BO ee RE Gydet iv The PREFACE. cyder counties, that liquor is moft e- fteemed. Tris has induced me to confider what kind of fine light liquor may be made from corn of any fpecies, that may be at once pleafant to the palate, anfwer the purpote of nearly as good a diluter as wine, and better adapted to an Englith conftitution, without any dread of the gout»or fuch like confequences, the ufual ‘effect of thin wines. And I think this really pra¢ticable, from a particular circumftance that has occurred to my obfervation. 1 was once on an election, at a certain borough in Wiltthire, and, in the courfe of ‘our canvafs, drank _ fometimes to the amount of two quarts of beer in the forenoon, not only with- out fenfible prejudice, but that it rather mended my health, and gave me brifk fpirits. As I had not been ufed to drink- ing, efpecially in the morning, I ad- mired at this, and found, on the moft - ftri& {crutiny, that nothing was ufed in this liquor but malt and hops, and that its happy vinos flavor was merely the refult of good ingredients, well cured, - a fine a fine.chalk water, and not being too much boiled: I readily concluded, that fomething might be done. to give.a dis ftinguifhed reputation :to malt liquors, and. operate as a counterbalance to the too free ufe of wine as a diluter and think I am enough mafter of the fubject to make it fo. But, as it is neceflary, that all the various kind of malt liquors made in this kingdom, be fo delineated, ~ that different palates may have -their choice; and as the London brewer fupply at leaft one eighth of the people with the favorite brown drink called Porter, it feems to claim a right to the firft fection of this Work, next after confidering the ingredients, from which that, and all other malt liquors are de- duced,.though .on a different mode of preparation, and then the Brown Ales . of the north in due order: after this,. I fhall enter on the finer beers of the -fouth and weft, and endeavour an ine veftigation of their refpective qualities, aiming to fet the whole in fo clear and intelligent a light, that if the reader hag.the leaft idea of the common order of’ brewing, and proper utenfils pre- pared vi The PREFACE ; | pared for the. purpofe, he will’ be left entirely at. his own election, to have light.or.fyll,: freng or fall, brown os pale. bees; «os the various medingas, vaberexwith to be merry or healthy, as may: beft fuit his pleafure oc intereft. « HN i THE INTRODUCTION. | FTOCHE reGitude of all kind of com- ' pofitions, effentially depends on a thorough experimental acquaintance with the virtues and qualities of the in- gredients, of which fuch compofition is to be formed. In Medicine, the Doc- tors prefcription avails the patient little, if he-that makes up the.dofe is un- dkilled in drug or Batany. The Cook will not fucceed better in his ragouts, éc. who labours from receipt, without a perfect maftery in the requifite mate- rials; this is fo obvious to common fenfe, that a writer would be inexcufable, that prefumed to dire@t the Art of Brewing Malt Liquors toany degree of perfedction, swithout firft inftructing the reader, in- -afmuch ag the refult of long practice can, how to make choice of proper in- gredients. ‘Lhe feveral kinds of Grain for Malt. Malts are made, or, if you pleafe, ma- nufaGtured from. various kinds of: grain B ; ’ and ; fx ] and pulfe, as wheat, white rye, barley of various fpecies, oats, beans, -peafe, &c. and at certain times, and on parti- cular occafions, have been ufed in party. or in'the whole, in the'Brewery. . Wheat has the moft fpirit and body, andwas formerly the’ only. gratn:dfteem- - ed worth malting, and may. probably' be fo till, if other reafons did not imterfere than what relate to’ its qualities, as the beft Bronfwic Mum is made from ‘this Oats; efpecially, thofe called the Short . Smal, are much «inferior :in-quality to ~wheat:and barley. bat when well .cho- — fen-and properly maltdd, :make:azmuch finer beverige, for‘our meals, thareither of the above. . Co | Peafe-and: Bems:are ‘generally ufed.as rotrectives, and ‘toigive:a' ¢moorhnefs to liquors, as will be -mentioned ‘in due. place. ‘Barley is the .grain moft :generaliy andited for the Brewery ;-and‘as is fap~ pofed for this reafon, that:comparing:tts owers and price with thofe.of wheat, it beft -anfwers.a general purpofe, tho’ the Diftillers feem to be of-a different o- _. pinion, However, .as the Brewers.and . mn : «gentry i] gentry.in all, parts. of the kingdom con cur.ip siving he ipreference to barley galt, it is o the kind that ought to be prefersed, and of the foil for raifing it, that I am now to fpeak. . Of the proper Soils for BARLEY. Barley, being a much. weaker grain than wheat, or more defective in. power £9 force its. way through ftrong clays, is moftfewn upon lighter, ground ; or, to provept its catching the tincture of she -comynon manure of -horfecdung, is fewn on the fame ground. after a crop of wheat, which has previoufly drawn off that fetid tincture, and prepared the . garth kindly.to receive it; it is,otherwife -foyvn, on mazled, lands, on {andy loams; on dtany or.gravelly foils, mixed with. a light. black-earth, on faponaceous chalks, or on frefh lands at firft breaking ups; the {ead is ufually chofe frgm poor lands, shin ef body, to improve and plump upon zicher foil; this praducesa grain — thin .of :fkin, but.replete of..flour, and _ is the kind -moft properly calculated foe malting, and to.give {pirit and flavor to the liquor extracted ; its appearance muft be bright and clear, its form fhort and eT B 2 plump, plump, and on feeling it be found hard and found; in the heap well fcreened, free from chaff and darnel, or any other wild feeds; and after all, its real: value known by its weight, which is readily computed by a {mall meafure of different famples, always taking care, that fuch famples be perfe@tly hard and dry. Fadtors in this experiment ufe a cubi- cal inch meafure, and thence compute the weight of a bufhel; but as every one may not be fo provided, or under- ftarid proportional arithmetic, it is more Simple, and anfwers much the like pur- pofe, if different famples are to be had to felec&t the moft weighty, fuppofing it to have all other right apparent qualities, which may be once more tried, by breaking the grain with your teeth, and feeing that the.flour within be white and clear of fpecks, for Corn injured by weather, or other accidents, may look to- lerably, and weigh well, yet very unfit to malt for manufacturing of fine well tafted beer; and having provided the . brewer; the gentlemen, &c. with proper grain, the next confideration is, that it be well malted. — Mat [ xiit J _- .Maut from BARLEY. ~ It is not one in ten thoufand who brews, that can. be fuppofed to malt their own corn, nor one in a, thoufand that purchafe cern to malt, fo that, ge- nerally. fpeaking, their. confidence muft chiefty be placed in the fkill and integri- ty of:the maltfter, both as to weight and quality ; as corn in the malting improves in meafure, and ought to make a fuita-. ble allowance; as to the quality, various confiderations take place, what fuel it is dried with; what the complexion of the malt you intend to ufe, and what kind of malt the fabricator is moft ac- cuftomed to make, for its moft proba- ble he will only perform. in one kind to perfection, be his {kill and integrity what it may; and the plain way to know _ wherein his perfection confifts, is to tafte the feveral beers at different places, from his malt, I fay at different placés, be- caufe fome may unfkilfully mifufe the beft malt, and injure the credit of the maker; but if. any one {fkilful brewer makes fine beer from it, jt may be con- cluded in the maltfter’s favor, and that it is in your power with his malt to make : B3 fine fine liquor, tho’ it is -better ftill if you find many in thé fame road. Thefe are the plaineft rules that cafi bé given un- der this’head, and if yot grind’ the mal yourfelf,- do not let your mill be fet too’ fine, that which cuts the grain in half is tufficient, and beft that it be quite cook Before'you'ufé it; and here to avoid repe- tition, as F Mail again be obliged, under thé fevdral heads ‘of Brewery in different parts of the kingdom, to define the va- fious kinds of malt in ufe, and the ef- feéts they produce, for the prefent quie the fubje@, and confider the next article in due order. . HOP & ' Hops féem to be the natural growth . 6f this country, as they appedr wild ial the hedges all over the kingdom, and when in the bud are, by the country - people, eat in the naturé of dfparagus ; they até fomiewhat bitter, bat have not an unpleafant tafte; from’ whence I cons cludé the foil fuited to the fubjet; buat by conftantly rifing from the fame root; and without cultivation, their powers neceffatily weaken, and require a fkil« ful had to nurfé therh into full f{pirit and vigor, ; The E x) The moft, noted, conpties for the cul, tivation. of, this prodpa, are Kent, Surry, and Worcefterfhire, on the fides o{ ’ Majdftone, Fagnham. and, Worcefter. The great: marts for them are, Stour- bridge Fajr ia Cambridgefhire, Wey- hill Fair in Wiltthice, andthe Burrough, of Southwark :, There aye no doubt, good and bad in every. county, but the, moft eftgemed are from Kagnham, the, next from Maidftone, andthe lat from - Worcetter. . 7 _ The cultivation of Hops is a very precarious wodgetaking, as they. rife and fall often from ten guaneas, or upwards, to two and a half the huadged weight, and the medium of fix pounds hut a rea- fonable profit. , _ Thofe who chufe fine pale beer, mul yfe a fine Hop in its full flavor and per- faction, and fo in proportion to the cam- plexion they proapofe for their beer; nog that a fine Hop will harm brown beer, but make it betters; but a brown Hop, ill cyred, will utterly. {poil pale _ beer, both in flavor and celour ; on the other fide,. an ordinary Hop may be ufed in brown beer, without the fame apparent injury to the liquor, as the frong fire vO B 4 tafte - [xij | tafte of the brown malt, will probably overcome the indelicacy of an ordinary Hop. - The Hop, after great care and ex- pence in the cultivation, is fubject to be deftroyed by the blight, and very much injured by bad weather, and at laft of- ten fpoilt in the curing; when any thing’ . of this kind happens, efpecially in Wor- cefterfhire, they are fumigated with ful- phur to recover their colour ; in this cafe great caution is requifite in the purcha~ fer, not that fulphur will much injure fine beer, rather: perhaps the -contrary, . fo there be not too much of it, but the’ Hop will not have the due effe& that might otherwife be expected from it. Mott perfons who raife Hops have kilns. ‘of their own, and thofe who grow but fmall quantities borrow the ufe from their. neighbours, fo that any animad- verfions on that head would be idle, as the formation and ufe of them is per fetly known ; ‘but it may-be remark-. ed, that quick curing, and careful re- moving, contribute to the preferving them in their full {pirit and flavor ; be- - caufe it will fave the feeds that reft im- mixt among their leayes, and‘ which, “) if -{ xvii J. if TF may fo fpeak, are the foul of the plant. —_ After what has been faid, I prefume neither the public, or private brewer, can be at any lofs in what manner to fe- lect the commodity he propofes to ufe. The new Hop of like quality will al- ways be preferred to’ the old, and bear a price accordingly ; but the old, that is to fay, of the laft year, if in every other refpeét fine, is not to be defpifed ; for which teafon it may not be bad ad- vice to thofe who ufe any confiderable quantity, that when the price is very low, to purchafe as many new Hops as may in part furnifh them for the ufe of the fucceeding year, as it feldom hap- pens, that the rife is not confiderable, whether a lucky feafon prefents or not, owing to the management of thofe who make it their bufinefs to jobb the mar- ket, againft whofe influence there is no contending. - And tho’ it may be almoft as impoflible ‘to dire&t the purchafe of this commodity by precept, as to make a good Cook by a receipt; yet, if his fenfes are perfect, can feel that the hop be fomewhat moift in the hand; fee that it. be full leaved, and within Bs . the { xviii ] the leaves keplete of feed and well colored, and Tell that the flavor be rich and pleafant, he cannot bé importantly iniftaken. : LIQUOR. This is a term ufed in Brewhonfes for fimple water; and as I would not willingly affront thofe wife gentlemen by calling it out of its name, the reader, I dare fay, will excufe me in calling it liquor, tho’ perhaps not converted until it gets into the Brewhoule. It is requifite to the extracting. of fpi- rit from malt, that liquor be as foft as ‘pofible; that is to fay, to draw the ‘more fpirit and fubftance out of malt ; but as in all extraéts, our mode of rea- foning willbe the fame, and while it is agreed, that the fofter liquor extraéts moft, it.is far from being agreed, that.it does not extract too much, for fo it has appeared to me in various inftances in ‘tea, rhubarb, &c. as well as-in malt and hops. Iam {peaking now of making a fine ¢eommodity, in which a due medium ought to be preferved, and muft from Jong experience, and as it appears to me ‘from common fenfe too, affume fo much of ef the dogme, as to aver, ‘that if water be bright, and with a {mal]l.addition of foap, will wath linen as well as fofter water, fuch liquor is hetter adapted to the making of fine beer than fofter wa- ter At the fame time is is certainly true, that thofe places.that lye on the margin of chalk hills, ranged athwart this ifland, have mach figer heer, with jefs care, than any other part of the kingdom. but this is not the kind of foft water in queftion, it is agt the wa- of ‘Thames, Severn, or Hymber, ar of any river in the kingdom, whofe {oft quality refults from dist and naftiness, nor can fine beer be made from them ; tho’ fomething of the kind may, when purged to a certain degree of tharpnet, Bau never like what {prings in a chalk we, | ‘Oo the other fide, there are matars in Nations pasts.of the kingdom fo mine- ral tin@ured, as not capable of being a- dapted to.the Brewery. ‘The next :preferable waters to the chalk, .ace-thofe.which {pring from the rosk ar gravel; gither. of shefe may fometimes prove too fharp, more efpe- cially for. common Drewes who shuly , no [ xx J Not to leave in the grains any fubftance for the hogs; but in this cafe the reme- dy is very eafy and natural ; for if fuch water be drawn into cifterns or tubs, two or three days always makes the ne= ceffary difference, and if well or ciftern be lined with chalk-ftone, this fuper fharpnefs inftantly difappears ; and fo it - . will in boiling, for then the {pirit of the dirt evaporates, and the meer earthy parts remain at the bottom a kind of ca- put mortuum. ae _ It is hence plain that: river water, however it may anfwer the purpofe of the common biewer, is not well adapt- ed to that kind of brewery, calculated to the ufe of genteel tables, nor will ever make fuch fine beers as are manu- factured from the chalk fprings; but as this argument will be better under- ftood, ih the courfe of the future fec- tions,-and all that can be farther {aid as to the choice of water, let it in ges neral be as free from harfhnefs as poffi- ble, but at the fame time perfectly bright, as the feparating it from dirt and naftinefs will permit ; and be affured, , that it is abfolutely impracticable to make beer ftand the glafs, that is brews ; € { xxi ] ed from a muddy ftream ; time, fermens tation, and finings ‘may throw the foul- _ nefs in fome meafure down, and it may, like the beft London Porter, look tolera- bly clear at the bottom of a well fcow- ered pewter pot, or clean filver tankard ; but bring this fame liquor in a glafs to the candle, and. then the deceptio. vifus becomes too apparent ; the feeming fine- nefs is nothing more than a glare thro’ the liquor’from thé burnith of the refpective metals;- Ss The next thing to be confidered. in due order is the form, fitting up and furs niture of a Brewhoufe, that may at-oncé anfwer convenience and utility. — "Th BREWHOUSE. The ingenious reader is here to take Notice, that in differtations of this kind, ™ it is not neceflary to give more than one _ form and difpofition, from which any proportional, greater or lefs, may by the common rules of arithmetic be readily deduced ; and in the next place, to con- fider that fituation will ever. vary the given plan; as we cannot conftru&t a ‘building in what form we. like, or fe . : ci Ext] cial rules dire ; in fuch places, as we have not groyad at command, and this will, ikewife in fome meafure vary the interaal difpofition an fhe placing of the refpective veffels, and fome of the sony vemionces: be pecefarily wanted, and fome nog in al places equally requifite. ‘The bet form of a. building for this purpele, whese grouad is at -command; as an ableng {quare, and in the propor, tion of. futy to. ninety feet, or the breadth two thirds of the length, which will, whether -the propontions .ingreafe or decreafe, -antwer every beneficial pure ole, - for the difpofition of the requifite urniture within. Antecedsnt to. the building, it is firft neceffary to confider from what diftange you are to ebtain the water you defire for brewing, in what ‘manner it is-moft conveniently, and at ' deaft-expence to be conveyed to, .and ia ‘what ‘manner to be. received at the brew- houfe, to be ready and fine for ule; as this not at-firft regarded, may in-the fur ture oceafion much inconvenience and ‘expence, and -perhaps after the charge of building make the whole ufelefs. Ja London, or where-water is laid in to al] parts in plenty, this is aot .a snaterial So confi~ - confideration, other than having a pro- per-receiver for it to fines and for ‘the _ Tiquor called Porter, that is not efteemed abfolutely requifite, as fuch is ‘not in~ tended to be fine beer ; buat in the coun- try it is quite otherwif, whether very fine beer be intended or not. , ' The judgment to be made-of this de- tfds on the diftance of the water, and ow far it may -be afforded to lay pipes for ‘its conveyance to the Brewhoufe ; for as to the'raifingit:to a proper level, by wind, ‘fire, or horfe engine, is quite in- fignificant, as the expence for particular. fe is ‘now ‘fo Jow-as not to merit :re+ ‘gard, and ‘may ‘ferve various other pur- pofes in‘the ‘houfe, Jaundry or garden. ' Yhe water being corifidered, the ‘fcite of the Brewhoufe muft be as near-as-pof- “ttle north and fouth, -at the fouth -end ‘a dead wall, againit which en the infide ‘to ‘place one or more coppers ; on the ‘outfide and above the level of the cop+ ‘pers‘is to be conftructed a brick. ciftern, well cemented and ftuccoed or plaiftered ‘within, to receive the water from the ‘engine, with leaden pipes through the ‘walls to the coppers, and ‘with braf — ‘cocks as of courfe ;-in this ciftern the water [ xxiv } water muft ftand fome time to fine for ufe ; no certain time can be given, as it muft depend on the nature of the wa- ter, the order of the weather, and com- mon obfervation, when proper for the purpofe, only that it may be as fine as pof- fible, and as little time in the ciftern as may for that end be found neceffary. This. ciftern, where much water is to be ufed, may be of thirty feet by ten in length and breadth, and the depth e- qual to the breadth, and in that propor- tion for larger or fmaller Brewhoufes ; _ from whence may be readily computed the quantity of water required to any apportioned building for the defign in queftion, this being calculated to that. of ninety to fixty feet with proportional veffels, a co _ The placing of the copper determines: all the reft, as it muft be fomething a- bove the common level of the mafh, tun, and cooler, in order to the readier con- veyance of the liquor to the math, and of the wort to the cooler. . In great Brewhoufes the medium height is twelve feet from the ground, _and is well apportioned to the largenefs of their veffels; and as the mafh-tun - ; mutt [ xxv] muft ftand above the receiver; and as° the upper cooler muft have another un- ' der it, and that -above the veffels that are prepared to receive the wort. = | The'building, as'to the length and -breadth, or as a propertion thereto, is: previoufly given, but the height remains, and muft remain indeterminate, only - noting, that as the malt fhould be: ground above the math-tunj and-above: all, as much light and. air as poffible ;” any ingénious man conftructing’ fuch a- building, may form.a very near judgment’ what height may be proper; the break: ‘of the fide walls up to: the roofing, whether by lattice work, or clap boards - éaving over each other, muft be above- the. malt mill, from fix to twelve feet, according to the other dimenfions of the’ building ; and as to the apertures below, by: fingle or double doors on the north, ' eaft, or -weft-fides, fuch fimply depend: on what ‘isto pafs through them mott. conveniently, and of that, the defigner: only. can make .a proper judgment, be- eaufe he: can only know’ what opening ‘may be wanted. - - ©: ‘ ‘The. Brewhoufe prepared, and all the requifiteingredients furnifhed, our next Oe cons 4, [; xxvi ] Qonfideratios is.to enter inte the: prattite _ _ af brewing the. various, kind: of melh liquors _in, their, utmott purity, aad per-, fection freed from thafe. bad asts,, whigh; it is even. dangereus. to expofa in. print, leaft. it fhould infe& more, than, are yet cencerned in fuch: pernicious fecrets. - The malt liquors that chiefly ciraulate, ia the home markets, are, Londop Per-: tecs,. Burton,and Yorkthire Ales, Dor- chefter, .Marlbrough,; .and Raméfbury- Beers. Thofe psincipally exported are,, the faid Lendon Pattere and-Briftol Beers;. amd. as _thefe are all calculated for the markets, and,. the’. generally afteemed, cannot be expected to equal the excel- leace of fuch as are for domeftic ufe,’ for the fervice of. great families, where this perfeGion fprings metely from fill, and, - wholefpme: mgaedients. "The beers brewed for domefic ufo are 4s. various ia. their complexions and: qua- lities, as. thofe for the market, or.as cus, tom or faacy happens to dicate, Ip. gen neral,- the northern. tafte, is Brows, ‘on Brown and Ambers‘mixt; the fouths ern, Amber, Amber and Pele mixt. ox Pale only’s and the mode of baew- PE. either of thefe fimple or mint. will E xxvii} will be noted in due order, andi their respective qualities properly ihveftigated; and here I fhall- beg leave to make a brief digreffion.. In. my memory, brewing for the mar= kets, was within’ a very narrow compats; but has extended, by degrees, on: its be« ing apparent, that at alow duty, brew- ers could make their beer beteer, and fell it ag cheap as it could be. byewed .in: pri+ vate families, free from: cafual expenct, hazard and trouble, and the revenue at the fame time confiderably benefited. But as common brewhoufes inerdafed in the metropelis, and were difperfing -all over the kingdom, the government, as im a fit of the fpleen raifed the daty; peta full ftop to thefe growing improves shents, until tlie difference between fuch private families that can, or that cannot _ Conveniently brew for theméelves inLon« don, is eight fhillings in every thirty fizs . and in the country, the fame in every thirty two gallons of ftrong beer; and’ it is ina purfuit like this, or fomewhat fimilar, that our internal trade, like the prifoners on the iron bed of the Attic robber, is put on the full ftretch, waft- ing its genial fpirit, and gradually decli- ning [ xxviii ] ning. into ruin. When it was more than probable in this particular cafe, that had common brewing been permit- ted, by means of a {mall duty, to have taken its free courfe, a better fupply would in time have refulted, and com~ mon juftice fo far have taken place, that all would have paid alike for ftrong beer; I would not willingly accufe men in power for having heads finely turned for calculation, any more than prophetic forefight ; but if it be true, as is but too evident, that our internal trade in general is on the decline, and high du- ties on the manufactures, and on the manufactory materials, foreign and do- meftic, the true caufe of that decline, the confequence is likewife very evident, that both trade and fupply will dwindle into nothing together, and prove to fome purpofe the folly of high duties. I thal now return to my fubjedt. [ 29 J eoeatceeeces The Phitélophy oP Brewing oR, A - COM? ENDEUM. (OF THE Eww: 1sH BR E We RY, pce Phitefop there, isnot in= otended epi he ‘of {peaking | yin wortls, and terms, unintel- e'to‘nine ténths of: thofe, who: ‘may ‘defire a: thorough. acquaint- ace with the’ fubje@, but ‘merely that (plain feinfe and reafon of things, whence dprings “an ~adourate. “hsiowdedge >of: the ‘vittuesahd qwdlities of ‘the feveral fper ‘Cies of Grain, Vegetables and Seeds that maay ‘be ufed in e Brewery,’ ahd ‘how the fame may bein’ various cafes: ap~ ‘plied for Health, Pleafure, and Profit. “Wheat is the prime feed, for the ma- nufactures of: Bread, Beer,‘ and- Spinits's an [30]. and the flour of infinite utility in a number of occupations, not at prefent to the purpofe. It has been flightly . mentioned before, but here more ma- turely to be confidered, becaufe; tho’ at prefent but little regarded in the brewery, is yet an important article. The chief countries for saifing this grain, and that lye to the northward of the great range. of chalk hills, are the counties of Huntingdon, Northampton, and Leicefter,; moft generally clay foils, with very few ftratas of marle; and as the lands are neceffarily to be manured for three: {ueceffive’ crops lar ffiore; and wheat the firftof. thefe, ‘it ‘follows, that fuch manure mutt. be, ufed.as fuch coun ties can afford, which ‘is moft generally horfe-dung, with fuch other mixtures tas may be had,” noné of which are pro sper for any grain to imbibe, that is to | ‘be ufed for fine beer ; and fo far the dif- - aufe isiaccourited >for; but where this ‘grain is. raifed on marled lands, or frefh _ ground, the fenfe of its foetidity vanifh- -es, and we come to confider it in its pure and natural ftate. That it has more -{pirit and body than barley, is, I prefume, ‘not queftioned, but in what proportion, ' nothing fs mothigg ut experiment cari announie, and that eviacessit.to-heinearly aaa be, wel with the cuftomary -differenee af piice at-market, tho’.that vanienee dften dépends;on other! cineurttences,. sand-as not an -éxprefsinale;: hut sit: hassbqon found, aad the ditilersdknow iwell,.eaat a bufhel «of mélted -whest,:is equal tb one-and. 4 half of barley; -aad:here the benefit df: ufiag ~wheatsin preference: is evident, as:it faves one thied an the exr peace of malting, -whieh.] fappofeis! fo far the fame inthe’ brewery, .as: im dhe diftillery. ‘Thisis:an:evident advantage, the hazard inufipg-it for: beer, ias tain- aediby ‘the mnadune, 4s a:fenfible iobjece tion; but as that-is pofitble, jini many places, -to be: avoided, ' I think :is not an a@bfoluteobjedion. “‘Ehe: next objeftion - dcan fay from experience is amatttake, avhioh «is, that it draws off from ithe aneth; thick-and:mummy;ianddo at-mnay, if: good ‘management .be-wanting ; sbut #s cight ‘bythels.of wheatimalt make the fame gquantity.of beer-as twelve of cbar- ley -malt;-and ithe, confiftence not anore ¢lammy, the liquor-with due care inthe mafhing will run off equally-fine,: fram the one, as from the other. The white wheat, [ 3? 4 wheat, pale malted, is ‘in this cafe te be much preferred, as. it -will work more free than when ‘quick dried; and owill preferye fomewhat a better color ‘than the red wheat ; but if the land on twhich it is raifed be not confidered, the ‘beer. will .not-be agreeable to nice dates, and herein is all the hazard. Oats are much on the other extreme; they have neither in them the harfhnefs ‘of the barley, nor mumminefs of the wheat, the flour fweet and delicate, and when properly felected and tenderly mal- - ted, bid the faireft of any to act as a vi~ nous diluter, and may, well managed, anfwer a better purpofe for digedftion than: light wines, and much apter for an“Englith conftitution ; they muft not » be thrown off with cold water, as is ‘cuftomary in oat ale, they muft_be mathed warm, and if poffible the whole thrown off into the receiver, with. the liquor only once run through them, quickened with frefh currant juice, or white bulaffes, boiled about fifteen mi- nutes, and worked off like other beer, with as little yeft as pofible, this will be a real wine, The [33]. The fruit juices. as above, may. be preferved with virgin honey, or loaf fu- gar, as moft convenient to feafons of rewing, when not to be had frefh; and about a pound of. either is fufficient . to a hogfhead of beer; they will affift as well to the flavor. and finenefs, as to the quicknin it for ufe, and at the fame time effentially contribute to the correcting that {corbutic drynefs, fo. common to all malt liquors, owing to the heated quality | of the grain in malt- ing; thefe fruit juices may be fafely ° thrown into the boil, and will affift all future fermentations in the wort, and in the tun; ‘and as to the method of u~« fing or applying hops, a neceflary quan~ tity will be feen in the next fection. What miay be faid upon Hops different from othe® . People. “It is not the Brewers bufinefs to raife or cure Flops, but to know when they are good, and how’ they are to be Pros perly ufed. The running the liquor through part of what is to be ufed, to prevent foxing miay be well enough, but the boiling them in 1 the grofs feems a miftake, Cc Hops C34]. | Hops.are allowed to have two ditin& qualities, as almoft every thing in nature - has, and {uch qualities diametrically op-. pofite to, and as correctives to each o- ther a kind of counterbalance, that nei= ther may be too prevalent ; and one bes ing the foft fafftony quality we efteeny, homogenous, the other the reverfe; - common fenfe feems to dictate an abfo- . lute {éparation ; but how this is effected - by boiling, I muft confefs I am not chy- mift enough to difcern. ~ oe ‘The firft quality to be extracted; is — a foft, pleafant, bitter and aromatic tafte, the refidue of no real ufe, either as to. health, pleafure or preferving the beer. ‘The extract is to be made by-deeoction, {n'a machine commonly ufed’ for ex- tméts; by an equal, degree of heat; and; the fufficiency of the .extract, or fepa- ration of qualities, to be eftimated by a.very eafy experiment, by three trials ;_ as fuppofe it be found, that the extract. -in grofs may be made in fix hours, the medium.in. four, and the latter; or the. moft.proper to be ufed, in two hours, | the diftinétion will be given by the tafte ; _ afid this experiment evince, what it is _ that :gives beer the fine, and what the . fostid oo E35] feetid flavor, and then every one may. apply them as may beft fuit the purpofe. The general rule for hopping, is as. to the time of beer being to be: kept,, and proportion of barley. malt to be u- fed-; that is to fay, to every quarter of malt, for fo many months as you inten the: beer-to keep, for. each month one pound of hops. . . | If hops be ufed. by decoction, and properly drawn, the extract from one pound is amply equal to the like quan-, tity ufed in the grofs ; and the. different manner of employing it only this, that inftead of boiling a confiderable time in the wort, it be only thrown in about five minutes before the wort is run off into the cooler, taking care that it be. of fuch a degree of heat, as not to check the boil ; and. when hops are welk chofen and fo ufed, neither the public brewer, nor private family, if their: malt be perfect, need fear having a fine flavored beer. And the choice of malta are to be felected from the following table, which is only intended ‘here to fhew, . what .extsacts will fine fpontane- ous, and what muft be precipitated, or — made fine by art, in proportign as they [ 364 are Iower, of higher, flower or quicker dried, as the fame are ufually meafured and determined -by the thermometer, in every body’s power to experiment; and: which, after having once tried, an at~ tentive obfervation: will fufficiently an- fwer the fame end. This is very far from being a needlefs:curiofity, as it is extremely proper for every one that, brews, ‘to make-a certain judgment when his beers will come about, for ufe, from a natural effect, or by art, And as it is agreed, that extracts from pale malts, gradually perfected, will in proportion be: fooner fine than fuch as are malted quicker, and as there are va~ rious degrees of malts from very pale or white, to very brown or black, and as ‘we cannot always command our choice, it is very neceffary at all times to know, how fuch as can be immediately got may anfwer what we intend. There is no depth of philofophy, or uncommon cunning, requifite to underftand this, but only that kind of ordinary attention, neceffary for every one that may attempt brewing to any degree of perfection. ‘The {37] The TABLE, “Malt, its degree ‘The time Beer ~ Fine in the natu- of drynefs, ~ will be in ral way,-or by : order, precipitation. . 124 Pale Yellow ~ 60 days = .129 Bright dito | .120 ———( Thefe fall na- 134 Amber. 4 months turally fine. 138 Light Brown , ‘ | Bright by pre- 143 Brown , 4 —_— cipitation ina . 7 7 - fhort time. 120—_— 148 Middling 6 ee ‘By precipitation ‘152 High brown } 4 in that time. 102 Brown, with to fome tolera= black fpecks ble colour but never bright. ‘157: Dark brown -5 18 ——= + Thefe will fine § a Years ¢ Thefe are hints fufficient to guide any one in the choice of his malts, as it re{pects the color of his beer, and the time it will be fit’ for ufe if judicioufly brewed; and the experiment is to be made in the kiln as foon as the malt is erfected, and ufed as foon after ‘as pof- fible to preferve the genial fpirit. It has been faid before, what quantity of hops are requifite to each quarter of malt, and how thé fame are to be pre- pared; but here it muft be confidered, . o3 7" that . . 1387 that if the beer is to be fent into a war- mer climate in the cafk, one third more hopping is abfolutely neceffary, or the increafed heat will awaken the acid f{pi- rit of the malt, give it a prevalency o- ver the correCtive power of the ‘hop, and ferment it into vinegar: to avoid this fuperior expence of hopping, the London and Briftol beers are uiually drawn off and deadened, and then bot- tled for exportation; this really anfwers the purpofe one way; but whether counterbalanced by charge of bottling and freight, &c. thofe who deal in this way can beft determine. -By a parity of reafoning, beer brewed here in the fummer require more hop, than in Spring or autumn, and by a continued parity, lefs in the winter than in ware mer feafons ; but as nothing but neceffi+ ty can induce brewing .in-cither hot or cold weather, this is only hinted where fuch neceffity prefents. _ The London Brewery is now arrived to a certain pitch of excellence, -and with the moft ordinary malts and ‘hops can, and do fometimes manufadture by . much the beft beer in-the kingdom, and would be every where fo efteemed,. did not [39] Rot avarice too often. gain the afcendang, ‘and put the brewers ypon {chemes to ‘fpoil their own commodity by blending different beers, and ufing other artifices, ‘that makes ‘them oftimes. fomethin; more than difagreeable ; but as their b -pradtice will neither alter the nature of malt and haps, nor demean their fkill when they employ it juftly, this brown beer, ufually called Porter, will ever, when properly brewed, command a -preference, ‘and is moft in order to lead the way to the beft inftruction in. the - Art and Myftery of Brewing malt li- -quors. a . : The Method of Brewing Loxpvon Brown BEER, ° under the Name of Porter